l
After the Marquesas, the Society Islands. Polynesia’s next highlights. Taha’a, Raiatea, and Huahine. The places to go for your next trip.
Sad but true, it’s the end of our trip to the Marquesa Islands. Time to bid farewell to the dream team and many others. And time to forget about all the fellow passenger we put on our virtual wall of shame.
Of course, for our dream team we swear on our grandmother and Auntie Julie that we’ll keep WhatsApping each other. But we’re still convinced that after 2 days WhatsApp will no longer work among us and everyone goes their way.
We head to our apartment in Papeete. It’s definitely lousy, but it has a washing machine and the internet is ok. So, we take the opportunity to upload these 1000s of pic’n’vids to the cloud, and finish our latest post. No problem, we have 2 days in town before we move on. That’s how it works if you plan to visit the Society Islands with Apetahi, the express ferry connecting them all.
In the evening a beer in our usual watering hole. The 2nd evening, suddenly we discover Klaus – 1 of the guys in our Aranui dream team. His last evening in French Polynesia before heading to New Zealand.
At the same time, we plan on WhatsApp to travel together with Jenny (you remember, the other Aranui dream team member) to some of the Society Islands. Great, happy about that – maybe it’s not true that after a few days all dream team members have disappeared.
After this break, the next morning, we have to get up before 5am to be on time for the Apetahi Express ferry.
At 6am we’re off, to Taha’a. 1 of the islands less well-known and rarely visited by organized tour groups. It takes 5 1/2h to reach it by boat. A beautiful journey with short stops at the islands along the way.
We arrive early afternoon. A taxi drives us the 20km to our sleepery. A family pension – a bit rundown but with a beautiful terrace we share with millions of mozzies.
There are next to no other guests – no wonder, luckily now it’s the absolute low season. Just imagine these wonderful islands with Frenchies sneaking around everywhere – thinking they’re at home and, even worse, innocent US citizens from these lost prairie states trying hard to spread their beloved tipping culture. A horror scenario.
Time to chill out, continue poetry for the post, and fight the mozzies.
Fortunately, they have a wonderful pier with an adjacent restaurant – the place for a sundowner and to watch the sunset.
The next 2 days, we want to check out the island. That’s the time limit set by Apetahi’s timetable.
But it’s definitely true, there’s not much to do on this island.
We drive along the ring road, just 72km, in our rental car. Stop at all pleasant places, chat a bit with the locals, and even find a pearl farm where they explain to us exactly the whole production process. Just, this interesting explanation leads quickly to an intense sales conversation. It’s really difficult to stop the smart lady promoting their masterpieces. No idea why she thinks we want to invest all our many millions in pearls. Whatever, eventually we manage to escape. Later we ask Google about prices for this kind of pearls – it’s about half of the figures of this sales lady. Whatever, we kept our millions.
The last evening on the island, it’s a Saturday. It seems that’s the day to celebrate birthdays.
In the evening we suddenly find ourselves in the middle of 2 wild parties. Well, you know the temperatures in Polynesia are a bit high, so all reasons to cool down with large quantities of alcohol, accompanied by pretty explicit songs to get thirsty again.
The next morning. Time to leave Taha’a for Raiatea. A small boat ships us to Uturoa, the island’s proud capital. Just 10′ to cross.
Maybe a last word about Taha’a: Do you need to go there? We think yes, go for it. But probably 1 day would be enough. There’s simply not too much to see and do unless you plan to walk the trail crossing the whole island – we didn’t do it, because it’s next to impossible to return to the starting point without paying for 1 of the exorbitantly expensive taxis of Polynesia.
At the port of Uturoa we have to wait a bit until our car gets delivered. Boring? – no, quite funny to observe all these brave US citizens sneaking around, sweating in the unfamiliar temperature and humidity outside of their air-conditioned cruise ship, and trying to get something done without knowing a single word in French. Poor guys, seem to be a bit lost outside of their village in the US.
In the meantime, Jenny – you remember, part of the Aranui dream team – has arrived. Yeah, we bid farewell in Papeete – now the opportunity to be happy about our reunion.
Then we head to our sleepery on the slope of a hill with the most beautiful view you can imagine.
Later it’s time to see a bit of the island. The Marae Taputapuatea, 1 of Polynesia’s most important archaeological sites, is just within reach for a visit in the afternoon.
Even a short but strong rain shower can’t demotivate us from visiting the old stones. Maybe some rain is the price to pay if travelling during Polynesia’s rainy season – well, we had next to no rain so far.
Next to the site is a public beach. Despite the short rain, we urgently need to cool down. No chance, the water is too hot.
Back to our apartment for a sundowner and some home-delivered pizza.
Only the next day we find out that Jenny, walking back to her sleepery at night, woke up all dogs in the neighborhood – fortunately only those behind some fences.
Another day, more to explore in Raiatea. Today, we have to hike a bit. True, there are even some long and strenuous trails on the island. Just, officially you’re not allowed to go without a guide, even if it could easily be done. Probably that’s the poor tourists’ contribution to the local economy. Anyway, we decide we’ve eaten too much pizza the evening before to go for long hikes. So, just an extended tour with the car and some shorter hikes on the way.
A 1st stop at the Gabbros trailhead. Well, here you probably shouldn’t expect a too hard hike – we don’t want to discourage you, but it’s only a few 100m to a viewpoint and some geological curiosities: the Gabbros, eroded plutonic rocks in the shape of a gutter.
Of course, this hike has been a bit too short, we’re definitely not exhausted yet. We need another 1. Now, a hike a little bit longer and steeper – up the Macarangaw ridge.
Just a few km to drive until we reach the parking. Definitely, we’re not alone here. A huge bus with desperate tourists has broken down. Parts and tools on the floor, the drivers busy doing their level best, and the poor tourists trying to ignore it all by taking selfies or busy with other nonsense activities. Whatever, a few minutes later they’re ready to move on. No idea if they ever arrived.
Whatever, we’re ready to climb the ridge. Well, the trail is not difficult, just sometimes a bit steep and slippery. And you have to remember well everything which is forbidden while hiking: don’t drive up the ridge while drinking a beer and listening to the latest song you downloaded illegally on internet. Just know, that’s forbidden.
It takes less than 1/2h to reach the lookout. Stunning view on both sides of the island.
Back to the parking, then we continue along the southern coast of Raiatea to finally reach the Marae Taputapuatea archaeological site. This spot we visited yesterday. There’s a 3rd short hike to a viewpoint on a hill. True, it’s the ultimate spot for all Insta-addicted readers. For all others, it’s just about the nice view.
Hey guys, you won’t believe it but we’re still not tired. So far, the 2 hikes were simply too short. And this hike is just 150m uphill. Just, it’s noon and fiercely hot and humid.
Back to chill a bit – enough is enough.
Later we head to the Fish&Blue, the ultimate place for a sundowner and to watch the sun getting ready to sleep.
The next morning – you wouldn’t believe it, but we’ve still not finished exploring Raiatea, there are still some more incredible adventures awaiting us.
After a short visit to Uturoa’s market, we sneak up to the Stèle Boubee, a short hike to a viewpoint above the airport.
After that, we really need a motu. You know, 1 of these tiny islands on the coral reefs surrounding many of Polynesia’s islands.
Fortunately, no problem in Raiatea. You take 1 of those small boats in the harbor of Uturoa. They bring you in a few minutes to Motu Ofetaro. You just fix the time you’d like to go back and that’s it. Easy, isn’t it? But let’s see.
A few minutes’ ride, and we’re in this Pacific paradise. A snow-white beach lined with palm trees, turquoise water with a few corals, and a beer in hand. What else could you expect?
Still, at some point we need a ride back. And then it all starts …
… no boat in sight. Even if we fixed the pickup time very clearly. Well, maybe the guys are a bit late.
After quite some waiting, we prefer to contact them. Just, we don’t have a cellphone to call, just internet – and we don’t remember the name of the boat or the agency providing the transfers.
A long search until we find the phone number of our apartment’s owner. Still no way to call. Finally, we ask a guy cleaning up the motu for the next cruise ship arriving. Despite all our efforts, the gentleman doesn’t seem to be too helpful. He just claims not to have a cellphone and no plan to return to Uturoa. And nobody else is on the island.
In the meantime, the sunset is getting closer. A last attempt to escape the island. A WhatsApp to the apartment owner. Maybe he answers.
Meanwhile, we already prepare our stay overnight. Make a pre-selection of the chicken we’ll grill for dinner – just, there’s no more beer – that’s the problem.
Then wonders happen. We get an answer by WhatsApp. The landlord calls some people at the port, even promises to drive there to sort out the whole issue. And suddenly a boat approaches. A different boat with a different captain. He tells us the whole story about all kinds of misunderstandings, grandma’s sudden passing away, and Auntie Julie’s birthday party.
Whatever, be warned, it looks like the guys are not too reliable. Maybe a good idea to just pay them once you’re back at the port, not as we did.
And now? Time for our sundowner at Fish&Blue’s – what else could it be.
Time to leave for the next island. The ferry of the Apetahi Express still dictates the schedule.
What a pity. Raiatea is definitely an island worth the visit, so much to see, such a beautiful landscape, and a perfect motu – if they pick you up as fixed.
For your next trip to Raiatea maybe plan 1 day more. Maybe hike up to the plateau, avoiding all the locals’ efforts to provide you an expensive guide to support the local economy, and get a working phone number of somebody you can trust should you go to a motu. Whatever, marvelous island.
Arriving in Uturoa we’re slightly astonished to find a cruise ship dominating the whole town. Google tells us, it’s 1 of these mass tourism ships with 3000 cruise shippies on board. So, visitors are flooding the whole town, trying to buy souvenirs in their best US English, trying to find a bank to change money because they don’t trust any ATM abroad, or simply pushing their rollator thru the streets of Utuora.
Well, we ask ourselves if they have a rollator mechanic on board and if they provide e-rollators for some of their passengers. Who knows?
Then we’re on our ship bound for Fare on Huahine Island. A last glimpse of the beautiful motu they tried hard to leave us stranded there.
Just a little more than 1h to cross.
Now we have to check out our different sleeperies. True, it’s not easy to find nearby and reasonably expensive accommodation if you book at different times. Whatever, we’ll manage it.
Our bungalow is pretty nicely located, but far off. Just by the sea. Jenny’s in the island’s proud capital Fare.
Time for lunch, laundry, and snorkeling at our home for the time being – even if the water is not so clear.
Then it’s time to search a decent watering hole. Not too complicated, there’s the Yacht Club in Fare serving beer and lousy cocktails.
The next morning, we’re more than ready to discover the secrets of the island. Today we opt for its northern part. To start with, Huahine’s most famous archaeological site, Fare Pote’e Maeva. It’s just a hike on a muddy trail thru the jungle.
And it seems to be extremely dangerous according to the signs everywhere. Whatever, nothing may stop us.
Finally, it’s pretty hot’n’humid to walk, the trail full of rotten mangoes, and insects abundant – but definitely worth the effort to reach a magical place with a huge Banyan tree.
On to some other spots dispersed in the jungle. At 1 place Google knows that there’s a skull between some ancient stones. We can’t find it – maybe it’s just a relic of Halloween left from a US-cruise shippy.
On the way back, we even find some wild vanilla plants growing over a stone.
Back to the car, we just have 1 desire: head to the sea, clean all the mud and the rotten mangoes off, cool down, and eventually see some corals and fish.
Not difficult to find such a place in northern Huahine. It’s just a short drive to the so-called Plage de l’Ancien Sofitel. A kind of lost place, formerly occupied by the hotel. Nowadays there are just a few decaying structures and the overgrown building of the former reception.
But now, it’s off to the beach, snorkeling.
A really nice place to see all these corals and monsters of the sea – despite the rather strong current.
Further along the coast to a place where they have sacred eels. Of course, we have to find out what’s behind this story.
Strange, but they live in a concrete channel. A guy tells us they’re no longer that sacred, but still blue-eyed. OK, we find them. No idea what makes 1 of these ugly guys so happy.
Then 1 or 2 viewpoints to marvel at Huahine’s nice landscape – and that’s it for today’s adventures.
Later to our go-to watering hole in Fare. It’s Friday, party time for the poor guys who had to work all week.
We have another day in Huahine before Apetahi’s tight schedule makes us heading to the next island.
So, more to explore. Today, the southern part. Well, we just follow the ring road along the coast, checking out a few beaches, a few maraes, and a few shops selling stuff we’re not enthusiastic about.
Finally, we arrive at Avea Beach. Google knows there’s a coral garden – no doubt, we have to see it. A short walk along the beach until we reach a closed hotel. It just takes a few minutes and a watchman discovers us. Of course, he claims immediately that it’s strictly forbidden to enter the hotel premises, including its private beach and the adjacent sea. What the hell – some small talk, and it’s sorted out – at least if we don’t stay here forever.
No doubt, the best place we’ve seen in French Polynesia so far for snorkeling. Extremely clear water, colorful corals and anemones, and abundant fish. What else could you expect?
Of course, we don’t want to drive the poor watchman nuts, after some time we’d better head to a nearby snack bar. More fish, now in the form of an excellent sashimi.
In the evening, after a sundowner in the Yacht Club, it’s time for a farewell dinner with Jenny. Of course, we’ve planned to have it in the poshest place on the island. Whatever, finally it’s a lively roulotte. That’s the offer in Fare.
Yeah, she has to fly back to Germany, back to salary slavery. Despite all efforts to convince her employer that she makes a better job here, somehow, he didn’t agree. No idea why he’s so stubborn.
Whatever, time to bid farewell, who knows where we’ll meet again – maybe in 1 of Lufthansa’s planes when she asks the poor passenger suffering in the favela (chicken class) if they prefer beef or pasta for their gourmet dinner.
Guys,
surely you agree with us that it’s time to stop this poetry. Yeah, we’re tired of storytelling about adventures which are just boring, converting nondescript pics into masterworks of art with Photoshop, and telling the WordPress app what to do despite its sturdy character. Surely you understand that we’d better head for a beer now.
Until we’re back with our next post, just wait impatiently for it, be enormously jealous, and continue planning your next vacation to French Polynesia.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin