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Out of the Desert to the Lakes, Argentina

From wine-induced urban life in Mendoza southwards on Ruta 40. Villages and small towns in the desert. Volcanic landscapes near Malargüe and finally on the way to Villa Pehuenia in the Lake District – another world.

Mendoza 2 Villa Pehuenia

Tunuyan, 12th November

Returning from today’s winetasting at Bodega Santa Julia we definitely have to try the bottle we’ve purchased with them.  Well, looks like we didn’t leave anything in the bottle for tomorrow.

Next morning, we drive to Tunuyan. Just a few km south of Mendoza. The gateway to the Valle de Uca with some of the most famous wineries of Argentina. 

As usual in this region, the valley is rather a flatland. But you’re supposed to see the snow-covered cordillera west of the vineyards.

Well, we’re not too lucky. It’s a cloudy’n’rainy day. So, no romantic view of the snow-covered cordillera in the background. And the further we approach the mountains, the worse the weather gets. 

We drive a little bit up the hills. To Manzano Historico. Definitely, it’s more a bunch of bungalows for summer holidayers than a historic settlement. Maybe except this monument Ritorno a la Patria of Argentina’s great liberator San Martin. Unfortunately, the memorial reminds a lot of grim times in 1930s European history.

Well, too much rain. Time to drive back to Tunuyan.

In town – definitely not too much to do. All decent restaurants closed down – probably due to the continuous crises in the country.  Finally, we find ourselves in a fast-food eatery, munching terrible burgers. At least they sell good beer.

Malargüe, 15th November

Next morning, we drive further south. Some 250 km to reach Malargüe – if you take the straight way. We decide on a small detour to visit Cañon del Atuel. Thus, it’s nearly 400km and 6-7h to drive.

On the famous Ruta 40 – Argentina’s longest road going all the way down to Ushuaia.

Shortly after leaving Tunuyan, we suddenly discover the reason why Valle de Uca is so famous. The weather clears up and the snow-covered mountains become visible. Unfortunately, no vineyard in the foreground.

In Pareditas we leave Ruta 40 to drive towards San Rafael. From the small town of San Rafael, we head southwards to reach the canyon. It looks like a pretty touristy area with a lot of cabanas and numerous offers for rafting. Currently, most places are closed; it’s difficult to imagine anybody rafting on the river. There’s so little water.

Soon we reach the 1st of 4 reservoirs they built to produce energy. Then on thru pretty nice landscape.

After some 100km we’re back on Ruta 40. Just a few km left to reach Malargüe. 

In winter Malargüe is the gateway to the skiing area in Las Leñas. Probably quite a busy time. In summer it’s a bit different. Indeed, it’s the gateway to the area with the world’s highest density of volcanos. Thus, with many marvelous places to visit. In principle a reason to attract hordes of tourists. Just the Government of Mendoza had the great idea that all natural reserves in their province should no longer be too accessible to odd tourists.  Thus, they’re only allowed to visit with a guided tour. A bit like in China.

Finally, we have to search for an agency to eventually book 2 of their tours. As it’s Sunday, not an easy task. Finally, we discover 1 even ready to work on this day.

Then a couple of beers and the opportunity to exchange whatever you can imagine with a Marroquin-Tunisien-French couple on the same trip thru Latin America as we are.

Next morning: our 1st tour. Well, it’s a kind of a simplified tour to Volcan Malacara. They promote this place by making you believe that you will sneak inside a volcano. Of course, that’s great. Where else can you do that? You start imagining how to rent a boat to cruise on the red magma lake in this volcano, maybe even a submarine to explore its ultimate secrets. Maybe there’s even a beach at the lake of magma.  Who knows? 

Of course, reality is a bit different. You don’t go inside the volcano. You enter some eroded parts on the slope of the volcano forming a kind of slut canyon. Whatever, still worth the visit.

Of course, you’re not allowed to visit the place without a guide, but you may drive there on your own. Thus, avoiding a malfunctioning minibus collecting people from their sleeperies for 2h before heading off.

Nevertheless, the entrance tickets have to be bought with a travel agency in Malargüe. Not convenient for tourists, but probably a measure to make sure the moderate entrance fees go into the pocket of the 1a supposed to.

Arriving at the entrance gate to the volcano there’s a mix of tour buses. bikes and a lot of cars. Altogether about 50 people. Of course, they all have to visit the volcano at the same time with 2 guides/watchdogs. Great, at least we’ll not feel too lonely.

So far ok. Our guide – a smart lady with a certain charisma deficiency – does everything to make sure we’ll survive the tour. To start with, she explains to us in all detail what’s forbidden. To make it short: everything. Then a long explanation of everything you need to know, or not before visiting.

Finally, some visitors have a lot of questions, others just sneak around to discover the surroundings before all the others arrive.

After all this preparation we enter the slot canyon. Queuing up to pass the narrow stretches. Not really to our taste. No problem, after a few minutes our guide has to explain again whatever has to be explained. For us, the opportunity to carefully sneak off – deeper into the slot canyon. To explore its beauty without the help of the 50 other visitors and their guide. Fortunately, nobody cares.

The very best thing we ever did.

Then we sneak back. Leaving what they call the volcano’s interior. Hiking up a bit on the slopes of the volcano – to admire Cerro Nevado in the background. A quick look at another slut canyon – by far less impressive. And that’s it.

In the afternoon we head to Las Leñas. Said to be Argentina’s poshest ski resort. Thus, must be great. Well, it’s known that the skiing opportunities are somehow limited – not really world-class. Just a few ski lifts, none very long. But who cares, if there are these excellent all-inclusive resorts offering free beer’n’wine even for breakfast? Of course, at a cost of 500 – 750 bucks a day. Per person, including ski pass.

Arriving in Las Leñas we’re slightly astonished at what we see. A number of these ugly, but typical ski hotels you may also find in the French Alps. Catastrophic architecture and all of them cry for maintenance. And that’s it. Well, not to forget, these 2 or 3 short ski lifts.

And that should be Argentina’s poshest ski resort?

We’re on the way back to Malargüe. A short stop at the famous Pozo de las Animas. 2 dolmens, now filled with water, deep below us.

Next morning. We’re ready to visit the Reserva Provinciál el Payén. An area unfortunately also strictly reserved to tour tourism. 

Whatever, we booked 1 of these tours. So, we’re perched into a minibus with 15 other victims, because of the regulations in effect of the Government of Mendoza, and carried 3h to the site. Well, maybe it was a good idea to go on a tour. Prado’s shock absorbers would definitely not be too happy with the extremely corrugated roads inside the reserve.

The 1st stop – the bridge over Rio Grande. Not because of the bridge. No, it’s the river that found its way thru a huge lava field after the eruption of a quite distant volcano.  

Finally, we enter the reserve. A proud representative of the Government of Mendoza checks the ID of each’n’every 1 on the bus. Really, no 1 could escape.

Then we’re allowed to drive on. Terrible road, but beautiful landscape. Reminds us of Lanzarote.

On to an area with so-called lava bombs, ...

… then, of course, time for lunch (no tour without something to munch), …

… then a bit further on, out of the black landscape – into an area called Los Colores, …

… and finally, to the side crater of Volcano Morado. The 1 which was covering the whole valley below with lava. Down to Rio Grande.

That’s the visit to Reserva Provinciál el Payén. Definitely worth the effort. Even if we have to drive 3h back to Malargüe.

And tomorrow we’ll be on the 1st 130km of our journey on the same road again. Thanx for that dear Government of Mendoza. Maybe in near future, you might reconsider your measures to promote tourism – just to avoid that you’re only considered a pain in the ass.

Villa Pehuenia, 17th November

Next morning we’re driving the very same road again we did yesterday.  We’re on the way to Chos Malal. A small town some 340 km to the south. In the middle of nowhere.

The road: still Ruta 40. Today a mix of paved road and gravel. No idea why they left 90km without pavement. Maybe to increase the feeling to be on a real adventure trip when driving Ruta 40, maybe the funds for road construction accidentally arrived in the wrong pockets. Who wants to know it? Nevertheless, the gravel road isn’t too bad. And the volcanic landscape is beautiful.

Chos Mahal: a few lost souls in the desert. Nondescript, nothing to discover, even not an interesting watering hole. Fortunately, we find a sleepery for us and Prado with an attached restaurant.

Well, there’s a sight in Chos Mahal: If you drive all of Ruta 40, in Chos Mahal you made 50% of Argentina’s longest road. For that, they installed a signboard with a flag in the background. We only discover it the next morning on our way to Villa Pehuenia.

Some 350km to drive. With a short stop at the regional center of Zapala. The landscape to Zapala – rather boring, thru dry lands, mostly flat.

True, Zapala isn’t on the direct way to Villa Pehuenia. Still, we urgently need to empty the funds of an agency of Western Union – thanx Argentina for your perfect finances. And to check out if there’s a place for an oil change. Arriving in the early afternoon – all workshops are closed for siesta. 

On to Villa Pehuenia. In the northern part of Argentina’s famous Lake District. Just some 150km left, thru the cordillera. And thru the 1st Araucaria forests.

Late afternoon we arrive in Villa Pehuenia – and finally in Patagonia. We’re astonished at how cold it is. Probably it’s the lake – and there’s still quite some snow in the hills next to the village.

Well, we’re also astonished how difficult it is to find a sleepery. Everything pretty expensive, all near the lake either closed or full. Finally, we find a cabaña – well it’s a part of the owner’s house. Somehow the guys converted their house into 3 apartments and a small corner to survive for them.

Guys, that’s it. Have a nice reading and be jealous. Nothing else is needed for the moment. 

Our adventures in the Lake District in the next post. We’re still not sure where to go to. Initially, we planned to drive westwards to Chile to visit some of the famous national parks in the area. Just, they’re all closed – the rangers are on strike. And no idea when they will stop their messy behaviour.

Cheeeers

Monika’nMartin

Chile's Most Interesting Towns
Argentina's and Chile's Lake District