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Marquesas, French Polynesia - Here We Come

Join us on some of the most remote islands of the South Pacific – the Marquesas. Jealous, you have all reason to feel this itch.

Papeete 2 Vaitahou

Papeete, 16th January

The morning after our incredible night flight with Air New Zealand, the long waiting together with the guys from the US and other EU unfriendly countries in front of immigration, and the lousy airport motel.

Unfortunately, the nice guy in the hotel only serves breakfast until 9am – not a real option for the poor guests arriving at 3am. So, a short walk to the airport for a coffee and a sandwich, then we take a taxi to town. Fortunately, the apartment we booked in Papeete CBD is pretty nice – and most importantly, has a washing machine. Time for some laundry and to recover a bit from the jetlag and the nights in all kind of planes.

Then we have to check out the proud capital of French Polynesia.

 
 

Just a word of warning: In Papeete don’t expect to get lost, it’s simply too small for that. Also, don’t expect to get much else than French products at high prices. Don’t expect any kind of anglophone way of life, it’s all about the Frenchies way – maybe except some specialized shops for US customers.

So, we sneak thru the few streets, along the waterfront, and get used to speaking French again.

 

All looks relatively nice’n’tidy, many older buildings renovated.

Quite some shops for the poor tourist to buy this kind of clothing she/he considers appropriate and a market selling everything China produces for the Polynesian tourism industry.

 

Still, walking thru some backstreets, the impression changes a bit. Suddenly it’s visible how little the Frenchies care about infrastructure and the implementation of their social security in their overseas departments. Probably a good reason for a certain reluctance of the locals vis-a-vis French politics.

 

And in the evening, where the hell should we find something to munch on?

Easy, you go to a brasserie. They serve stuff like moules frites or choucroute garnie. For US citizens they even offer some soggy burgers. What more could you need? Yeah, of course, beer. If your brasserie also considers itself a watering hole – it sometimes brews excellent beer.

As an alternative there are these Roulottes – food stalls selling more or less the same stuff at the same price, just without a beer.

Nuku Hiva, 20th March

No doubt, nobody visits French Polynesia just to eat moules frites. Visitors come to spend a few days in luxury hotels in Bora Bora, in overwater bungalows they pay at least 1000$ a night (breakfast excluded), go to Moorea to tell everybody that they’ve been here, or fly to distant islands without any infrastructure on a camping vacation to save some money.

Whatever, we opt for a tour to the Marquesas with a freighter, partly converted into a cruise ship. So, definitely not the ultimate luxury cruise many people dream of. Still, a ship with all mod cons, daily tours to some remote islands, and exactly a quarter bottle of wine per person for lunch and dinner.

But for that you’ll see some of the remotest islands in the Pacific, travel on a ship with less than 200 passengers, and don’t need a suit for dinner.

And it’s an opportunity to check out a ship built by the Chinese.

Of course, they have to start the whole program with some folklore. A bit strange and unusual for us to see a dance group engaged for our departure. For the others on the ship it seems to be pretty normal to have such entertainment.

By noon we’re ready to leave Papeete to Fakarava. A flat coral atoll we should reach by tomorrow morning. A place famous for its biodiversity and a recognized UNESCO site. 

So, we have some time to get used to the ship and its permanent and temporary residents. To learn what we should do and, should we misbehave, how to avoid execution on the spot.

It’s also the time to exchange with fellow passengers tales from all kind of trips, be happy once the happy hour starts, and eat too much despite knowing better.

Or simply watch the lousy weather.

The next morning, we’re getting up pretty early as we pass the mouth of the atoll already at 6am. And we want to see how it is to enter an atoll in the South Pacific, meaning sailing over a former volcano that eroded a few (million) years ago.

 
 

By 8am we’re ready to go ashore. A tender takes us the few meters to the quay of Rotoava, the proud capital of the atoll. A short walk thru the town’s CBD. True, just a few houses, the town hall, a small supermarket, and some even smaller souvenir shops. They’re all closed, it’s a Sunday. What else do you expect on an island with 800 inhabitants.

Then we’re on the 1 and only road leading from the tiny airport to some coconut plantations further south. You wouldn’t believe, there’s even some traffic. Some brave locals driving to church, others to 1 of the beaches.

We follow the road for about 2km to reach a small sleepery – the place to try some snorkeling. Especially, to see all these sharks. We’re told, they’re absolutely harmless, it seems they’re all vegetarians. True, even near the shore they’re hanging around, too sleepy to munch on any legs or arms of innocent tourists.

Then it’s already time to return to the ship. Yeah, time feels in Fakarava somehow limited.
And for the next 1 ½ days we’ll sail the open sea to reach the Marquesas, about 1000 km away.

A whole day at sea – the ultimate opportunity to make friends with really nice people, and unfortunately, avoid a few others whatever may be the reason. Well, with the 1st group we discuss installing a wall of shame for the latter 1. However, we’re afraid they might place us on it as well. Then, there are numerous people you speak to once or twice – still, the next day you won’t remember.

Whatever, time for a sundowner at the ship’s watering hole.

The next morning, we have to get up a bit early to see our arrival in Nuka Hiva’s capital Taiohae, which we approach at 5.30am. Our 1st island on the Marquesas.

And by 8 we’re ready to disembark, to participate in an island tour. This way the guys keep us busy the whole day by visiting the island. A short walk to the village, on the way a look at the biggest Tiki in the Marquesas – kind of a masterpiece in concrete by a local artist.

Then a look at the fish market where they feed the sharks with the leftovers of their catch, to finally find ourselves on a large parking lot.
Don’t think these are the cars of the locals in front of the supermarket, where they buy imported frozen fish from France for lunch. No, these are the cars for our island tour. Must be 40 – 50, all waiting for us poor visitors to arrive.

It’s the starting point of the tour. Little later everyone is in the car, the drivers are all ready, 1 car behind the other 1. Looks like rush hour at Delhi’s Connaught Place. We’re on our way to the 1st destination, 5’ away: the island’s cathedral. Everyone gets out, some guys tell us everything we don’t want to know about the place, a look into the church – and we’re off again.

A drive thru a beautiful tropical landscape. Looking at the picture, please don’t think there’s a lot of traffic on this island. We’re just in the middle of these 50 tourist cars. Once they’re off, the road will be empty again.

A few stops on the way to make sure everyone gets that all-important selfie at these unique Insta-spots.

Then we reach a place called Tapivai. We’re not really sure why we stop there. There’s an archaeological site, nobody speaks about, and a handicraft center they want us to visit. Whatever, most people check out the handicraft offer, only a few sneak to the Tikis on the other side.

 
 

We drive on along the coast to the next sight:Tohua Kamuihei, …

… Nuka Hiva’s most important archaeological site. It looks like our arrival is an important event for the people here.

True, some of the passengers on Aranui are only used to all-inclusive resorts, organized once-in-a-lifetime tours, and huge cruise ships getting them to the most remote corners of the world. They expect a certain entertainment at this place as well.

 
 

So, it all starts with a long explanation of everything we might see here, followed by some dances.

Despite the many visitors and the spectacle, it’s a magical place not to be missed when in Nuka Hiva. Just  imagine how it would be, should you visit it alone or with your lover boy/girl to experience its special atmosphere.

Next is Hatiheu, a village at the beach. Time for lunch. Later, a look at the village’s really spectacular view from above the beach. No idea if there are sharks here.

Then it’s already time to return the same way back. By now, it’s a bit easier to enjoy the beautiful landscape as we no longer drive in a convoy of 40 cars.

 
 

Of course, we can’t return to our ship without having visited our driver’s pig. So, a stop at her house, a chat with her husband, eat some grapefruits, receive a few avocados (just in case food on Aranui isn’t enough), and most importantly admire the huge pig. Many thanks to Sidonie – great.

 
 

Finally, what about Nuka Hiva? Well, a wonderful island, just when you visit it next, maybe it’s not the worst idea to take some time, rent a car and discover it the way you like. You know, it’s all about travel yourself, not to be travelled.

Ua Pou, 21st January

Another day, another island – that’s Aranui’s cruise life. We have to be on deck by 5.30am to see the spectacular rock spires Ua Pou is famous for. True, it’s early to get up, but definitely worth seeing.
In the port of Hakahau (please remember the name), they quickly start disembarking the cargo for the island. We’re wondering how many bottles of beer they need until the next arrival of this all-important supplier.
For us, the opportunity to explore Ua Pou – said to be the most beautiful of all Marquesan islands.

Today, we’re on what they call an optional tour. Don’t think there’s something extraordinary with this kind of tour, it’s just a similar large row of cars filled with Aranui passengers. The main difference is that they charge you a pretty stiff price for a few hours in a car.

Well, we’re pretty frustrated when we see how easily we could have rented a car here to avoid the crowd and experience the island on our own. Whatever, dear Aranuiies, even if you need to optimize your profit, we would highly appreciate getting a few pieces of information about alternatives to your offers.

Or, it’s probably our problem, as we didn’t ask Google about car rentals.

Back to our optional tour.

A short drive and we already stop to learn a bit about local trees. Well, you know, mango trees, avocado, breadfruits, etc. – this kind of veggies growing along the roadside. Maybe they just explain all this, because the rock spires are currently in the clouds.

On thru the great landscape, high up on mountain ridges and along the slopes of even higher mountains, to reach …

… the archaeological site of Tohua Mauia Tehono Mavaeani. A name to remember when you’re on your way with a rented car. The place where we can see quite a few Tikis. We also learn a lot about certain aspects of Polynesian daily life, especially about their cannibalism culture and the way girls and boys make sure that there’s a future generation despite all culturally induced premature death.

Probably, the guide thinks these are the most interesting issues for tourists.

 
 

On to Hohoi Beach. 1 of the few places where you can find Flower Stones (Pierres Fleuries). Not easy to find them. Still, everybody heads for intense stone mining. Visibly, some miners are getting too exhausted to continue their work successfully. A pity, but after ½ h the mining comes to an end and we have to be on our way back to Hakahau – Ua Pou’s proud capital and the place where Aranui is moored.

There, everybody is rewarded with a wonderful lunch with plenty of local specialties and another dance show. Sorry guys, we missed to take pics.

 
 

Esteemed reader, that’s the story of this tour. Should you need our sincere recommendation – just avoid it. Rent a car, search in the cruise-ship-bubble a few nice people with similar intentions and explore the island the way you like it. Of course, you’ll miss this explanatory thing with cannibalism’n’girls’n’boys, but what the hell – you know how it works.
In the afternoon, a short hike up to a viewpoint. Beautiful view, nobody telling us more stories about cannibalism. A nice chat with a policeman and his girlfriend who are escaping the harsh winter in France in the framework of an exchange program.

Later on, it’s time to head for new adventures on the next island. Unfortunately.

Tahouata, 22nd January

The next day – we even visit 2 islands in just 1 day. Can you imagine how efficient we are? Starting with Hiva Oa.

Again, we arrive pretty early at the place where Paul Gauguin spent his last years, as well as Jacques Brel – whoever he is.

Now we know better how to organize our visit to the island. Consequently, we decide to rent a car with our 2 friends we fortunately found among the many passengers. Of course, this dream team is a bit crazy by cruise-ship standards,  a bit naughy’n’cheeky, having a certain humor to allow the necessary distance from certain situations, open-minded to new experiences on this trip, and all experienced travelers, but inexperienced cruise shippers. So, really nice guys to survive the trip.

But also, in a certain way not exactly matching the vision of some people traveling on Aranui. Maybe for a few 1s even their nightmare. Whatever, great to have them. On your next trip with Aranui we highly recommend you find your comfort bubble within all these informally distinguished silverbacks sneaking around. 

Back to Hiva Oa’s car rental adventure.

To organize our escape from the fixed program, 1 of the Aranui staff, a guy calling himself a guide,  offers to call a rental company in advance. Really a helpful person, despite the fact that his French is somehow improvable, he arranges everything for us – but without giving us a chance to speak directly to the car rental.

We’re among the 1st 1s leaving the ship to reach the rental company about a km further away. Arriving there, we learn that they never got a call from Aranui. No problem, they have a car if needed. As we’re nice guys we walk back to the other car rental we saw on the way – next to our ship. You wouldn’t believe it, they remember the call. Of course, now we’re just a bit late and in the meantime, someone else took the vehicle. No problem, back to the 1st 1. Some paperwork and we’re off. Just an hour late – which makes quite a difference if you only have 4h to see the whole island before the ship leaves again.

Enough poetry about the incredible organizational talents on Aranui. Let’s speak about our experience outside of cruise-ship slavery.

There’s an archaeological site not too far from the island’s proud capital Atuona. Just a few minutes’ drive to arrive at this wonderful, quiet place. Nobody there to receive us with a flower, no traditional dancers, nobody explaining to us all these secrets about cannibalism and other important issues of life.
We just walk to the site’s main square, search a bit in the forest for an incredible Tiki between the huge Banyan trees, nicely ornamented with flowers. Hey, what a difference from the day before.

Back to town. A visit to the cemetery, the place to visit Gaugin’s grave, …

… then on to the other side of the island. A steep climb up to a plateau, the only flat part of Hiva Oa, thus the place they have their tiny airport. At an elevation of 700m we drive thru a landscape you wouldn’t imagine: pine trees and acacias with umbrella-shaped canopies.

 
 

Finally, we reach Hanaiapa. A small village at the shores of the other side of the island. Well, don’t think we’ve driven for hours, it’s just about 30’ if you’re not in a hurry.

As time is so limited, we already have to drive back. What a shame.

Still, on the way back we definitely have to see the Smiling Tiki. No idea what makes this small guy hidden in the forest so happy. To lift this secret, we have to search a bit along the roadside until we discover a small sign showing us the way. A short walk – and here it is. The Tiki smiling forever.

Back to the ship and on to the next island today. Not easy, but today we really have 2 islands to visit. It seems to be a concession to the cargo they have to disembark.

After 2h we already reach the neighboring island of Tahouata. We moor in the bay, the tender brings us to the village Vaitahu. True, just a few houses dominated by a pretty large church. As there’s not enormous much to do here, we decide to hike to a nearby viewpoint. Just ½ h to reach it.

In the village, a look at the church and we’re already on our way to the ship.

They’re still unloading cargo. Definitely not a fast process if the ship is moored outside in the lagoon.

 
 

Back on the ship. We’re on the way to Fatu Hiva.

What a day, 2 islands in just 1 day – crazy, still we had a great time. Probably because we haven’t taken any tours and nobody told us what we can see.

As a reward, a real South Pacific sunset. Kitsch as it gets. More is not possible. Kindly note that Photoshop didn’t work on this pic’s colors.

Then: time for a beer.

Hi guys,

Now you’ve had to read so much poetry about these small islands in the middle of the South Pacific, you surely fell asleep a long time ago, or…

…. you’ve already packed your socks, a snorkel, and some seasickness pills you’ll never use and you’re on the plane heading to French Polynesia.

We assume it’s rather the latter.

Whatever, kindly understand after writing so many stories to make you jealous, we need a beer. Right now.

Cheeeers

Monika’n’Martin

On the Way to French Polynesia: Hong Kong'n'Macao
Marquesas, French Polynesia - The Next Incredible Adventures