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What a Difference - Bolivia
Leaving western Brazil to visit Bolivia’s lowlands and then up to Sucre. The country’s proud capital. A journey thru a vastly different world: Bolivia’s Chiquitania with the Jesuit Trail, Samaipata at the edge of the Andes, and finally the drive to Sucre.
Bonito 2 Sucre
Corumba, 17th March
Bonito – our last stop in Brazil for sightseeing.
This morning, we’re on our way towards the border with Bolivia. Still, about 350km and a 5-hours drive away.
The road takes us thru the southern part of the Pantanal. So, our expectations are high to catch a glimpse of this highly praised region. And to spot plenty of wildlife along the way.
However, as it often goes, reality proves to be slightly different. On 1 side of the road, we see the usual agricultural lands, and on the other side, more of the same.
True, on the way, we pass a bridge with many crocs below. Naturally, the reason is clear. There’s a small eatery beside it. They sell croc steaks for lunch. Thus, they feed the animals to ensure they don’t run out of stock – and attempt to charge innocent tourists for taking pics.
Fortunately, today their business is closed.
After this incredible experience to see Pantanal’s wildlife, we turn off the main road to follow a few km a dirt road. It’s said to be part of the Transpantaneira. The road they planned to connect the south to the north Pantanal, but fortunately, construction was never completed.
The landscape remains largely the same, with agricultural land stretching out around us. We cross some of these famous wooden bridges along the way. All in good condition, so no adventure. Finally, we arrive at Rio Miranda. Only to find numerous river cruise ships mooring until the busy holiday run starts again.
In the afternoon, we reach Corumba, the border town to Bolivia.
For Monika, the last chance to munch on a Pantanal croc.
San Ignacio de Velasco, 19th March
The next morning: after nearly 2 months we leave Brazil. Prado gets a last load of good-quality diesel, and we’re heading to the nearby border.
Formalities in Brazil are completed within minutes. Surprisingly, nobody attempts to charge us for ignoring Brazil’s countless speed traps and red lights. Even no penalty for not having paid a few electronic tolls – simply because we have no CPF (this administrative code essential for every Brazi to survive in their own country). And a CPF is required to pay electronic road tolls.
We drive a few meters to arrive at the Bolivian border control. A minute or 2 for immigration, customs takes a little longer because the smart lady needs to control Prado’s VIN. Then we have to go to the police station to get permission to drive Prado. This is something unique at this border post. It’s said that without this important document, you may not pass the control post of the very same police a few km away. Ok, maybe forgot to mention the most important issue for the officer in charge: to receive 100 Bolivianos. Of course, without a receipt. You can call it what you like.
Whatever, Martin leaves him after a few minutes with this all-important piece of paper. True, he agreed to offer the nice police officer a beer, which he thankfully accepted. As for all other fees, the gentleman is free to contact the embassy in La Paz to be reimbursed for his painful work.
We drive on. 380km. The 1st 50 km on a pretty worn-out asphalt, then on a brand-new concrete highway. About 5h on a very lonely road thru Bolivia’s Chiquitania. Mostly flat scrubland, with a few hills scattered in between.
We arrive in San José de Chiquitos late in the afternoon. Just in time to visit their famous Jesuit church. An UNESCO World Heritage site, just like the other churches we’ll be exploring along the Camino de Los Jesuitas in the coming days.
And best of all: if you happen to visit San José de Chiquitos soon, make sure not to miss sipping on a beer (or two) at the plaza. The view is incredible.
The next morning, we hit the road for San Ignacio de Velasco. It’s only about 200km away. Still, it takes quite a while. The road is mostly under construction. So, many detours, frequent stops, and a lot of slow driving.
If you’re thinking about visiting San Ignacio on your next leave, you might want to postpone it for another 20 years until they finish all the construction work.
On the way a stop in San Rafael: another Jesuit church. We’re fortunate, the church is open. Even though we’re likely the only visitors today.
We drive a few km further. To San Miguel to visit the next church. Here, we’re not as fortunate. The doors are closed. We ask around to find out the opening hours. Some guys swear that they’ll open at 2 pm. Ok, just 1h to wait.
We take the opportunity to buy some diesel at a station where they don’t even know that foreigners have a non-subsidized price to pay. The guy simply puts in someone else’s information – and we get the fuel at the local price.
Finally, we wait until 2.30 for the church to open. Then we decide to move on.
Just a few km left until we arrive in San Ignacio.
The village – quite sleepy, with their Jesuit church having burnt down many years ago. So, they replaced it with a new construction. Looks a bit like a version of Disneyland. Nothing you absolutely need to visit.
Santa Cruz de la Sierra, 21th March
The next day on the Camino de Los Jesuitas. Not really far, just 170 km to Conceptión. Now on a good tarmac. The landscape: as usual.
Concepción: even smaller than San Ignacio. Still, much more animated. In the afternoon a march to protest against the injustice of the world and anything else. At least, as far as we understand.
Later, we’re going to see their church. Said to be the most beautiful of all Jesuit missions.
Later, sneaking thru the village we’re again astonished at how many Mennonites have settled in the eastern part of Bolivia. Still, a largely disputed group in the local society, mostly completely isolated from everybody living outside of their community.
The next morning, it’s time for something other than Jesuit churches. So, we’re on our way to Santa Cruz, about 300km away.
However, on the way, there’s the very last church in San Javier. Since it’s the last 1, we think we should visit it.
Yeah, that was San Javier and the last of these Jesuit churches.
We’re back on the road to Santa Cruz. On the way another short stop to buy some fuel – after some discussion, again at the local price.
As we approach Santa Cruz, traffic becomes significantly denser. And sometimes, more unusual.
Since we don’t intend to visit Santa Cruz, as there’s simply not much to see there, we’re heading for a sleepery in the outskirts. Just to spend the night before moving on.
Samaipata, 25th March
This morning, we’re on our way to Samaipata. Up in the mountains at about 1700m. Only a little more than 100km to drive.
A last glimpse at the suburbs of Santa Cruz. Then the traffic thins out, and the road becomes narrower.
About halfway, we reach the village of La Angostura. The gateway to the mountains and the site of a famous police roadblock where they’ve developed their own rules.
Well, we’re not too eager to learn about their latest imaginations. Especially since we’ve been warned that it might be pretty time-consuming and could be expensive if they don’t believe in the almighty power of our embassy.
Arriving in the village, we simply turn off the main road and follow a bumpy village alley until the last road gets us back to the highway. Fortunately, the crossing is just 10m behind the roadblock.
We see quite a long queue of cars, people arguing, police officers in imposing poses, etc. Slowly, but steadily, Prado sneaks on the highway – and tries to disappear as quickly as possible. Well, it works. Nobody shouting behind us, no bullets in the car windows, and no decrepit police vehicle following us. We’re back on the road.
Early afternoon, we arrive in Samaipata. The temperature – what a relief after more than 2 months nearly constantly in scorching heat.
We head for a nice sleepery a little outside town. For 1 simple reason: tomorrow is 23rd March. Bolivia’s census day. The day when they shut down the whole country to update their statistics. So, no traffic, no restaurants, no walking in the streets and no drinking of alcohol. Their plan is to visit each’n’every household in the whole country to ask for grandma’s name, all bank accounts outside Bolivia, and the PIN for the credit card. And for the Bolivies – just the plain truth, nobody is allowed to do it the way Trump does. Of course, all just for statistical purposes.
No idea if those data collectors who don’t finish during working hours have to complete their work at home in the evening.
For us, an opportunity to wash our dirty clothes, send our pics to the cloud, and go for some poetry in this post.
The next day: Bolivia’s census day is on the pyre of history. At least until they publish the results sometime in the next few years.
So, the country slowly wakes up again. Semana Santa starts today. Everyone is busy going to church and then celebrating the beginning of the Easter holidays.
For us, it’s time for a hike. Perhaps the most spectacular trail climbs El Codo de Los Andes.
The trailhead is just a few km outside Samaipata. The last kilometers on a road desperately crying out for a minimum of maintenance.
Arriving at the trailhead, there’s a huge signboard indicating that we’re at the right place. Also, it strictly states that having a guide is required to sneak up to El Codo. Immediately, we don’t understand any Spanish anymore.
Still, we have to pay a modest trail fee to the guy hanging around. He explains exactly the way to take and wishes us a beautiful hike.
About 1h up to reach El Codo – the Elbow. Then a flat trail for some time along the elbow, and finally another ascent to reach the top of an unnamed mountain with a truly panoramic view.
The trail: beautiful, but partly pretty steep and rocky.
Then we have to sneak our way back. After 4h, we reach the trailhead again. Then back to Samaipata.
So, next time you visit Samaipata, don’t forget to climb El Codo de Los Andes. It’s definitely worth the effort.
Maybe a word about these mandatory guides: we met a few other hikers. Nobody had a watchdog, except a group of backpackies on their adventure trip.
Another day in Samaipata, another experience.
For most visitors, the main attraction isn’t climbing El Codo or exploring the nearby Parque Nacional Amboró. No, they come here to visit El Fuerte – the Fortress.
This pre-Inca and pre-Columbian site, an UNESCO World Heritage, served as an important astrological and ceremonial center in the 15th century. Nowadays, only the remains on a vast rocky ridge and some excavated house foundations remain.
So, we drive a few km to the site, pay an exorbitant entrance fee (equivalent to 5 beers), and we’re ready to explore.
As we enter the site, we’re quite astonished by the small number of visitors they have. Especially considering the national holiday during Semana Santa and the many backpackies hanging around in Samaipata.
After the visit, the lingering question is whether this gentleman with his machinery is demonstrating ancient techniques from the pre-Columbian period or if it’s just odd maintenance work to justify the entrance fee.
Back to Samaipata. We take a look at the main plaza. Looks quite nice despite the numerous eateries, watering holes, tour agencies, souvenir shops, and whatever else backpackies may need.
By the way, in a beautiful souvenir shop, we discover the exact same llamas they sell everywhere in Cusco to American tourists. Probably a sign of globalization in the times of Alibaba.
And we make a rare discovery: another overlander’s car. No idea where the guys are.
Enough for today. Tomorrow, we’ll have a long drive to Sucre. Bolivia’s proud capital.
Sucre, 26th March
We’re on the way to Sucre. 360km on a winding highway thru the Cordillera Oriental. About 7h to arrive.
It’s a journey over several passes, down into valleys, and then back up again. As we head further eastward, the landscape gets considerably drier.
Some sections are a bit boring, while others, especially thru some colorful mountains, are pretty scenic. Finally, just a few km before reaching Sucre, the road ascends steeply to 2900m to reach Bolivia’s capital.
On the road, we stumble upon an interesting truck. Looks like the initiative of former President Donny Trump to enforce the worldwide consumption of US beef is a full success. A truck in Bolivia adorned with a cow and the US flag must surely be the evidence.
However, we’re slightly confused when we notice all the Chinese writing on the side of the truck.
Whatever, let’s hope nobody cheats Uncle Donny – and they transport only tins of Peking Duck Sweet’n’Sour instead of US Beef. But, who knows?
Finally, we arrive in Sucre just in time to enjoy sunset (and a beer) on a rooftop terrace.
Well, guys, that’s it.
Next time more. Promised.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin
