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Andean Highlands in Southern Bolivia
Our journey from Bolivia’s capital, Sucre to Potosí, and Uyuni, to finally reach Tupiza. A trip thru fascinating highlands, often above 4000m. Then onwards to Salta in Argentina.
Sucre 2 Salta
Sucre, 27th March
In October ’22, during our trip along the Panamericana, we had planned to visit Bolivia’s proud capital, Sucre. However, at that time, continuous roadblocks made it impossible.
Now, we’ve finally made it. Time to explore the city.
The historic center, an UNESCO World Heritage site, is pretty compact. However, visiting it today isn’t always easy: They celebrate their university’s 400th anniversary. An opportunity for various celebrities and patrons to showcase their importance and to be invited to numerous cocktails during the festivities.
As odd tourists, we must either stay in the background or sneak in until a police officer discovers us and kicks us out.
Of course, we start with the Catedral Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe at the Plaza de Armas. We’re lucky, the cathedral is open, because they’ve just finished part of their celebration in the church. And now, they’re busy taking selfies.
An opportunity to quickly slip in to have a look.
Next stop, the Palacio del Gobierno Autónoma Departemental. Famous for its magnificent view from the rooftop. We simply follow a delegation from wherever they’re coming from to get the opportunity to see a bit more of the local government’s administrative center. Although, their premises are definitely not too impressive. Except for the murals on the 1st floor.
On to Casa de la Libertad. The place where Bolivia declared its independence in 1825.
These university celebrators are just having a cocktail there. Looks like the place is closed to the public. Well, again we just creep in. Take a look at the hall.
It even takes a few minutes until a sleepy police officer discovers us among all these formally dressed folks.
Yeah, we’re kicked out. The guy even accompanies us to the entrance. On the way, he explains to us that we’re more than welcome in the afternoon – after having paid a pretty hefty entrance fee. We thank him a lot for all he did for us and disappear quickly.
Time to stroll thru Sucre’s alleys to admire all these whitewashed houses with their wooden balconies. And to enjoy the incredible traffic – and the emissions of all these barely maintained minibuses.
Just remember, sometimes it’s not easy to see the beautiful houses behind the traffic lights and all the wiring.
In the afternoon, another church, now converted into a school: San Felipe de Neri. Famous for its view from the rooftop.
Enough pics of Sucre. Tomorrow we’ll drive on to Potosí.
Well, just a last important recommendation: Next time in Sucre, have dinner at La Taverna. The restaurant at Alliance Française. The ultimate nightmare for vegans.
Uyuni, 29th March
We’re bidding farewell to beautiful Sucre. We’re on our way to Potosí. We’ve been to this town back in October ’22. So, it’s more of a quick stop. The place to acclimatize a bit to the altitude, and an opportunity to sip a Potosina in 1 of these old-fashioned bars. The beer brewed by the highest brewery in the world.
Just about 150km to drive on a decent road. Up to 4200m.
Even on our second visit, the town still holds its charm with Cerro Rico in the background. Time to sneak thru the narrow alleys and soak in the atmosphere.
It’s Thursday before Good Friday. So, everyone is busy preparing for the final days of Semana Santa.
Later, we finally make our way to our all-preferred bar. To have a Potosina.
Only afterwards do we find out that the local government has banned alcohol consumption this Thursday and Good Friday. Apologies to all Potosies that you had to be jealous because we’ve been enjoying our beer while you had to settle for overly sweetened American bubble water.
At night, we have a look at the various events they organize to get everyone in the mood for Good Friday.
The next morning, it seems that Prado has remembered its bad habits from its time in Bolivia last year. It appears the combination of poor-quality diesel and cold weather renders Prado incapable of starting its engine in the morning.
In the meantime, we’ve figured out how to outsmart this quirk: we use our small electric room heater to warm up Prado’s diesel filter. A few minutes later, it finally starts – with a huge cloud of white smoke.
Then we’re on our way to Uyuni. Some 200km and 3h to drive.
Definitely a scenic road.
A last glimpse of the mining activities – looks poisonous. And off we are.
We arrive in Uyuni just after a heavy thunderstorm. Mud and water everywhere. So, the town looks even more rundown than during our 1st visit back in October ’22.
Since the Salar is flooded right now, only a tiny portion of it is accessible. So, really no reason to stay more than a night. We already did the big Salar de Uyuni tour back in October ’22.
Finally, we limit our activities in Uyuni to a pizza and some beers at Minutemen at Tonito’s.
Tupiza, 31th March
The next morning, we hit the road to Tupiza. About 200km away. Mostly on the highland, well above 4000m.
Arriving in Tupiza, we head straight to the Mirador del Sillar. Probably the most spectacular viewpoint in the area. Some 15km on a gravel road high above the town.
So, now we’re in Tupiza. A pretty lousy town. Definitely nothing to see, nothing to do, and nothing you might miss in town. People come here for the surrounding areas.
Of course, there’s 1 exception: Alamo. The restaurant with less-than-perfect food, but incredible decor – definitely the weirdest in Bolivia. So, now you know where to go next time you’re by chance in Tupiza.
The next day, it’s time for a hike. We decide to explore the Puerta del Diablo and the Cañon del Inca since it’s accessible from town. About 4h with a few detours along the way.
Unfortunately, the 1st 2km lead us thru the town and then thru the town’s rubbish.
Back to Tupiza, we enjoy an afternoon dedicated to washing clothes.
Salta, 2nd April
The next morning: we’re on the way out of Bolivia. Bound for Argentina. Just 100km to the border town of Villazón.
Along the way, a lot of publicity for good old Evo. Despite all his controversies during the last government. Looks like populism might have a shot again.
As we already learned from last years’ experience at this border, it’s rather chaotic, nasty, and time-consuming.
By now, the Bolivis have implemented an electronic customs form for everybody traveling by car. But it’s not needed for bus passengers or pedestrians. No idea what’s behind that. Whatever, it takes time to get that done.
On the other side, the Argies now insist on x-raying everything removable in your car. The smart lady at customs even had the idea of having x-rayed our rooftop tent. Eventually, she realized that it might be a tad too large for the machine. Whatever, after some small talk, she’s satisfied with x-raying 2 bags with dirty clothes and an empty jerrycan for water.
Nevertheless, it still takes us over two hours to cross.
Late afternoon we arrive in Tilcara. Looks like everything is heavily booked. We learn, that the Argies added 2 more days to Easter holidays: in memory of the victims of the Falkland War in the 80ies of last century.
After quite some search we find a lousy, overpriced sleepery in a backyard.
Whatever, time for some excellent Argentinian beers.
The next morning, we’re off again. To Salta, about 200km to drive.
Dear all, that’s it for now. More about boring Salta and our adventures in the Argentinian Andes in the next post. Plus, a huge complaint about Chinese spare parts.
Of course, we’re well aware that you can’t wait to read more. However, kindly understand that we need to experience our adventures firsthand before we can share them. But don’t worry, remain jealous and keep planning your own trip around the world – or not.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin