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On the Way to Paraguay
About 1500km to reach Paraguay. A journey thru western Uruguay along the homonymous river. Then into Argentina’s northernmost part. This region leaves a rather poor impression despite the vast pastures and reforestations. It’s mainly a drive thru flat, sparsely populated land to finally reach Encarnación in Paraguay. The Argentinian dream of a shopper’s paradise.
Montevideo 2 Encarnación
Colonia del Sacramento, 11th January
We’re ready to start our journey. The plan – to follow Rio Uruguay, and then cross into Argentina.
We’re leaving Uruguay’s proud capital, Montevideo, heading to Colonia del Sacramento. Some 180km on an excellent highway.
The only pain in the ass is dealing with the toll stations. Unlike last year, now we need a sticker on the windscreen for passage. We only realize this at the 1st booth. Stuck. Nervous drivers behind us, a barrier firmly closed in front. No problem, a friendly guy just opens it up for us and we’re saved.
The 2nd boot – the same. Just the guy’s friendliness is slightly less obvious. We need to buy a sticker. After handing over grandma’s 2nd name, uncle Jim’s birthday, and my sister’s credit card number, we finally paid and hit the road again.
Colonia: It’s pretty much the same as when we visited last year. Still a major tourist hotspot. Especially day-trippers from Buenos Aires. Despite the economic crises and all the other challenges they’re facing currently, the Argies continue to visit and spend a lot of money.
Fray Bentos , 13th January
So far, we’ve been revisiting places we checked out last year. That has to change now.
So, we’re on our way to the north. To Fray Bentos some 200km away. Cruising thru rural Uruguay, alongside Rio Uruguay. Excellent, deserted highways. The landscape – some room for improvement.
On the way, a break in Carmelo. A small, somewhat nondescript town with a famous bridge. Perhaps not exactly the spot to spend the rest of your magnificent life.
After 3h, we arrive in Fray Bentos. Time to explore the godforsaken streets in the scorching heat.
It’s visibly a pretty quiet place, don’t expect to die of a cardiac attack here.
Somehow, it reminds us of some of these small, lost places in South Africa.
Still, we come across a beautiful, small restaurant on the shores of the mud-brown waters of Rio Uruguay. Please note their choice for vegetarian is somehow limited to zero.
Certainly, you’re not visiting Fray Bentos for its breathtaking beauty or elaborate nightlife. Beaches? Better forget them as well.
No, in Fray Bentos, it’s all about El Anglo. This massive industrial complex, founded in the 1860s and running until the 1970s, turned millions of adorable, cute cows into canned corned beef and world-famous Oxo Cubes.
Those among our esteemed readers who heroically faced the axis of evil during World War 1 will surely remember the red tins they used each and every day to prepare their Big Macs in the Flanders trenches.
Whatever. These days, the factory stands as a UNESCO World Heritage site and an industrial museum you shouldn’t skip.
Paso de Los Libres, 15th January
Next morning. We’ve worked off our bucket list in Fray Bentos.
Time to drive further to the north. To Uruguay’s 2nd largest city: Salto.
Some 250km, as usual on excellent roads.
On the way a stop in Oueguay. Chances are, you’ve never heard of it. No worries, neither had we. Still, it’s also part of Uruguay’s industrial history. The remnants of a once-important railway station. Where else in the world can you still see wooden wagons waiting forever for cargo and passengers at an abandoned railway station?
Early afternoon we reach Salto. Despite being the 2nd-largest town, it’s not really an urban center. Everything appears to be in a certain stage of disrepair. The main road is flanked by a few shops – and that’s it.
Well, maybe not to forget this plaza still trying hard to spread some X-mas feeling at 35°C.
The next morning, we’re busy with exchanging the few Urugy Pesos for Argy ones. At least, we end up with a huge bundle of banknotes.
After that, we cross Rio Uruguay at the nearby dam to reach Argentina.
Immigration and customs are passed in no time. Even if it’s evident the folks are not accustomed to cars from overseas. Probably, you could even pass without doing any nasty paperwork
Then some 250km to Paso de Los Libres. On the way a slightly extended rest to get some diesel. No worries, there’s no shortage, it’s all about these masses of Argies driving back home from their incredible summer holiday in Mar del Plata.
Paso de Los Libres. A quint, somewhat lost town on the shores of Rio Uruguay, with a bridge connecting to Brazil. As usual in today’s Argentina, slightly rundown, and not really buzzing with activities. Ok for a beer on the streetside and later something to munch in an astonishingly hip eatery.
San Ignacio, 16th January
Next morning, we’re back on the road. Heading to San Ignacio on the Paraguayan frontier. Nearly 400km for Prado to drive on more or less good roads.
Late afternoon we arrive. Just keen to locate a sleepery with effective air conditioning. Outside temperature is scorching 44°. Wowwww.
Definitely too hot to visit San Ignacio Mini in bright daylight. A former missionary outpost.
Encarnación, 19th January
The next day we’re getting up pretty early. We intend to beat the heat while exploring the ruins. And we’re getting up just in time to witness a fierce thunderstorm, followed by constant rain.
So, no chance to visit whatever the Jesuits built. Instead, we’re on our way to Encarnación. In Paraguay.
Some time to relax before passing Argentina’s border. It seems all Argies are on the way to Paraguay.
A huge bridge spans Rio Paraná, a few minutes to pass Paraguyan immigration’n’custons, and we enter a completely different world: Encarnación. Despite its rather religion-related name, it just resembles a huge open-air shopping mall.
Even in the customs parking lot, some guys inspect our car. Inquire about spare parts we might need, and suggest all kinds of tires. Of course, we do need both. But we definitely won’t buy anything with these guys.
A short while later, we find our tires in the city center. At the shop mentioned on iOverlander. Perhaps in San Diego, US, you could get them cheaper. But probably nowhere else in the world.
True, Prado also cries for new shock absorbers. We have to ask around a bit to find good quality at a reasonable price. The guys just direct us from 1 shop to the next. Pretty straightforward. 1/2h later, we can place the order. They should be ready by tomorrow morning.
Time for a beer. At Encarnatión’s beach. On the shores of Rio Paraná, Argentina’s Posadas in the the background.
Next morning, we pick up the shock absorbers and take them to a mechanic. True, his workshop looks slightly archaic. But, the guys are permanently busy repairing all sorts of expensive cars. So, it can’t be too bad of a place.
The rest of the day we spend with organizing tickets for Saturday’s desfile of the Carnaval Encarnaceno at the Sambódromo.
Then it’s time for a beer. Time to watch the sunset, observe the poor guys swimming in the brownish waters of the Rio Paraná, and the abandoned construction sites of the numerous high-rising buildings in Posadas.
Next morning.
Dear Prado, we’ve taken good care of you. But now, it’s enough. You have to go back to work.
Shortly later, we’re on the road to Trinidad. To visit the famous Misión Jesuítica de la Santísima. At least the remnants of it.
Definitely, you might feel slightly tired of these old stones after the visit. Just ignore it. Only 10km away, there’s another missionary site: Jésus de Tavarangüe.
The place is certainly less impressive than the former 1, but still worth a visit. Anyway, you’ve already paid the entrance fee for both sites.
Esteemed readers, enough is enough. Even for this post. Please just wait for the next 1. We’ll do our level best to make it as boring as we can.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin