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In Paraguay
Paraguay’s greatest tourist attraction: Carnival. After having experienced that our journey thru rural Paraguay, making our way to its somewhat grim capital, Asunción, and on towards Ciudad del Este.
Encarnación 2 Ciudad del Este
Encarnación, 20th January
2 days ago, we snagged our tickets for Carnaval Encarnaceno. To admire the spectacle at the town’s Sambódromo. Touted as the 2nd spot to see Carnival, right after Rio. Thus, we have to experience it.
And today, things are getting serious.
We’ve got to be at the Sambódromo by 9 pm. A little later the spectacle kicks off.
While some folks are still busy telling their moms that they will behave and stick to just a cup of hot chocolate, others are already fully immersed in the sensations of the spectacle.
But let’s see how the show unfolds. And if the visitors really behave as they promised to mom.
Of course, the show does not only need dancers but also people taking care of the huge floats. And others even of the dancers.
Asunción, 22nd January
Carnival night is over. Everybody gets up a little later. Time to move on.
So, we’re on our way towards Asunción, Paraguay’s proud capital.
Today to San Ignacio. Some 140km to the north.
On the way, a short stop at Santa Rosa.
Also, a former outpost of the Jesuits. Nowadays, a sleepy town in rural Paraguay with a few 1000 lost souls.
Then on to Santa Maria de Fe. A village famous for its howler monkeys at the Plaza Central and its museum with some remnants of the Jesuits.
The monkeys are spotted easily. They’re constantly searching for food from the few visitors.
For the museum, it’s slightly different. It appears closed forever. Having already spent a few days in Paraguay, we’re aware that this doesn’t mean we cannot visit. We just have to find the right person to get in. So, the opportunity to ask around and to practice what the Paraguis call Spanish. It takes some time until somebody knows a phone number to contact the caretakers. Easy – just nobody answers. What the hell, we’re ready to give up. Just driving out of Santa Maria. Then we get an SMS. The caretaker. Asking if we’d like to visit. A few minutes later, we’re back at the museum – the door is open. Well, wonders happen.
Finally, we get a 30′ private tour thru the world of the Jesuit saints.
As well as some wood-carved masterpieces by evangelized Guarani who learned this art from the Jesuits.
On to San Ignacio. A small, sleepy town lost in the middle of nowhere.
But still boasting a pretty decent eatery with reasonable food.
The next morning we’re on our way to Paraguay’s proud capital: Asunción. Some 220km. The landscape, as usual in this part of the world: flat, agricultural land and some wetlands.
On the way, a short stop at the Templo San Buenaventura in Yaguarón. No doubt, we’re delighted to learn that a family has already contacted the caretaker. So, we can easily join.
A few minutes later, we’re inside. Once again listening to a guide.
Just 50km left to Asunción. A 2h drive. Thru pretty chaotic suburbs. Some areas show a considerable potential for improvement.
Right alongside the once-famous Hotel Guarani – a legacy of infamous dictator Alfredo Stroessner.
Later a stroll thru the capital’s rather grim center. Many buildings pleading for maintenance, shops closed down a long time ago, and tenement houses without inhabitants, but walled windows. Definitely not the kind of place you’d love to sneak around at night.
Of course, amidst all these witnesses of decay a few posh, heavily guarded government buildings: the president’s palace, the parliament building, or the university. Sometimes just next to badly impoverished slums.
Despite all warnings and our impression of Asunción’s grim streets, we couldn’t resist going out for a beer in the evening to the rustic bar Arsenal Cué. To enter we even have to imagine our passport number and our name for the stern bouncer.
Ciudad del Este, 24th January
Next morning: 1/2 day in Asunción is definitely enough for us. Thus, we’re heading to Ciudad del Este and on to Argentina by the ferry crossing Rio Paraná. Around 320 km.
It takes again quite some time to drive out of town and its numerous suburbs.
Then we’re on a brand-new highway: 4 lanes, little traffic.
Best of all, this new road bypasses all the police control posts. The police in this area are very well-known for being omnipresent and notorious for their corruption. As we could see on IOverlander, no reason seems to be too trivial or too insignificant to be fined. Of course, a fine to be paid immediately and without a receipt.
In the afternoon, we discover that the ferry between Ciudad del Este and Puerto Iguazú stops operating by 4 pm, maybe 4.30 pm. What the hell, we surely won’t arrive on time. And tomorrow the Argies plan a general strike against their newly elected president’s austerity measures.
No problem, we find a sleepery along the roadside. In a place called Campo 9. A village largely dominated by Mennonites. Luckily, not those who still haven’t invented the wheel. But those who contribute significantly to the country’s economy. They own huge agro-industrial complexes to convert their agricultural production into goodies ready for sale in supermarkets.
Campo 9 looks quite tidy and modern. Reminding a bit of a rural settlement in Canada. Still, it remains to us a slightly unusual experience with all these guys sneaking around.
The next day, we’re on the way to Ciudad del Este. Just 100km left to drive. Now, the highway is definitely infested with police. In each’n’every village, the guys stop cars to complain about whatever you might imagine. Whenever possible, we hide behind trucks or buses. Thus, no problems.
Arriving in Ciudad del Este, we don’t necessarily need to explore it. The city is essentially just another massive shopping mall. Mainly catering to Brazilians. However, it’s also known as a pretty rough town with a considerable crime rate. Fortunately, we don’t need to buy anything at the moment.
So, we drive a few km out of town. To the Dam of Itaipú. The 1 with the biggest energy production in the world. A joint venture of Paraguay and Brazil, constructed in the early 70ies. It still produces 90% of Paraguay’s electricity.
To visit, we have to take a tour. The operator offers it free of cost: A short movie to understand how great they are, a glimpse of the whole construction from a viewpoint. Followed by a bus ride below the dam to the Brazilian side, and back on the top.
So, guys, we’re tired of this poetry in the post. We gonna have a beer.
Maybe this helps to motivate us for the next 1.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin