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New Zealand - the North of the South
Our journey thru New Zealand’s South Island continues. Now the northern part – Kaikoura to Abel Tasman NP, Nelson, and back to the west coast, to Punakaiki.
Christchurch 2 Punakaiki
Christchurch, 23rd March
We’re in Christchurch, with the rental car company next to the airport. As we’ve underestimated the time we need to explore the South Island, we have to organize our ongoing trip.
Unfortunately, we could not simply call the company to extend the rental period for our beloved Rusty. No, we have to make a new contract, pay everything and head off again.
Well, after a few minutes even the guy in charge understood that we’re not new customers, but just poor guys who came here to give back the car they were driving and have 1 for the next 2 weeks. So, after a long search in his computer and thinking a lot about the company’s policies, rules, and regulations, he asks us if we could not simply keep Rusty for the 2 weeks.
Yeah, why not. In the meantime we love all its scratches and rust, if it’s in a good mood it runs without problems. And we don’t have to unpack everything.
Great, we’re on the road again – with Rusty. It just remains the question why the hell we had to drive to Christchurch for that.
Whatever, a short drive to our sleepery in town – then time for some sightseeing.
A walk thru a town whose revival after the devastating earthquake in 2011 is celebrated, but where you can still see the traces of this tragedy.
Kaikōura, 24th March
We’re on our way to Kaikōura. About 180km to drive, along New Zealand’s east coast.
When we start it’s quite foggy – yeah, an early taste of autumn. Still, a bit later it clears up. A few stops on the way and early afternoon we arrive …
… – just in time for the Peninsula Hike. A 3h walk above high cliffs and along the beach with some seal colonies.
Havelock, 25th March
We’re on our way further north, to the small village of Havelock, the world capital for green-lipped mussel production. Some 170km along the coast, mostly on a pretty busy road.
Some viewpoints with seal colonies, …
… then on to Picton, the ferry port to the North Island. Surprisingly, a ferry even seems to run today – which doesn’t seem to be guaranteed at the moment.
Then we follow the Queen Charlotte Road, a winding’n’winding scenic road along the coast to reach Havelock.
Well, it seems we’re currently not too fortunate with the weather. The MetService announces a strong depression, eventually developing into a cyclone crossing New Zealand. What a pain in the ass, at least 2 days of terrible weather. And we’ve booked a boat transfer for a hike in Abel Tasman NP the day after tomorrow.
Anyway, currently it’s not easy to discover the beauty of Queen Charlotte Road. Clouds’n’fog look everywhere the same.
Havelock – a few houses along the street, some fishing industries, a sleepery or 2 and a few watering holes for the lost souls living here. That’s it.
And in the evening? Of course, a platter of green-lipped mussels – what else could it be?
Motueka, 28th March
The next morning: the weather is definitely lousy. Looks like MetService is right for once.
We’re heading to Kaiteriteri, a bit more than 100km. Fortunately, we can change the date for the boat to Abel Tasman NP. Impossible to think about hiking tomorrow.
Early afternoon, we arrive in Kaiteriteri. Our sleepery – with a great name, but in reality a rather lousy, slightly filthy backpacker with some super-small rooms.
Anyway, outside it’s pouring, so it’s the perfect opportunity for enjoying the room, writing some blog poetry, arranging all these pics taken, and having a couple of beers in the nearby pub.
Another day, more rain. Only by the afternoon it slowly clears up. It’s still drizzling, but the roads flooded in the morning are opening again and even a few sunbeams push thru the clouds.
For us, the need to call again the guys with the boat to check if we may even go for our Tasman hike tomorrow. Yes, we can.
Early morning, a beautiful sunset. Looks like the storm has passed. Fortunately, we’ve not been in its center – other areas further north got hit seriously.
By the way, please note that the pic on the right is not photoshopped.
By 9 am we’re on a water taxi heading for Anchorage Beach. About 30′ to reach, with a few stops on the way.
Most important is the stop at Split Apple Rock. Seems to be an Insta spot – but who knows?
Then they kick us off at Anchorage Beach. Now it’s on us to hike the 10km to Bark Bay.
As there’s low tide, we can cross the Torrent Bay Estuary – often a bit muddy, sometimes we have to wade a bit, but who cares.
We arrive at the village of Torrent Bay – a cluster of houses, many of them converted into apartments or hotels. It seems the Kiwi government and the inhabitants could not agree on compensation payments when they created the national park. So, the guys living here remain in their settlements – and unfortunately they’re clearly showing their frustration with the situation by being pretty unfriendly to everyone passing by – even if they make a lot of money from tourism. Well, a shame.
Still, we survive it. We stay on the trail and don’t look at all these “private” and “keep out” signs.
Then we’re again in the forest, most the of the time high above the coast until we reach Bark Bay.
Of course, we’re not alone on this trail. Only a few 1s seem to make the whole circuit of several days.
Many are sneaking in their golden sneakers, others in their brand-new, super expensive outdoor outfit, a few seem to be on their way for some clubbing.
Finally, we even see a group of fully organised hikers with their watchdog – sorry guide. So, a huge choice should you intend to study the people making this trail.
Finally, we reach Bark Bay. A large beach, a campground and a hut for those on overnight hikes.
For us, it’s time to return by boat to Kaiteriteri and drive on to the nearby town of Motueka.
Motueka: well, not exactly the dream destination of our life, but they’ve got a nice motel and a pub with good beer and an excellent Caesar salad with more or less raw tuna. What else could you need?
Nelson, 29th March
Unfortunately, the weather the next day is slightly below our expectations. We knew it’ll be a bit cloudy, but who would guess the clouds will be that deep and it drizzles the whole time? Nevertheless, we’re optimistic that the weather can’t get worse – so we’re on our way to French Pass. The closest point of the South to the North Island.
Well, you know, those who are too optimistic …
… by noon we’re in the fog, it’s raining, and we cannot see anything of the landscape supposed to be beautiful. Time to give up, and return to Nelson.
We have an afternoon to sneak thru Nelson. It’s definitely 1 of the nicer towns we’ve visited so far. Still, we wouldn’t go sightseeing here for days.
By the way, it seems the city council of Nelson had a partnership with the Romanian town of Satu Mare during the reign of dictator Ceaușescu. Since then, both have some of the ugliest administrative buildings in the world. Who knows, maybe the partnership is just a rumor.
A slightly spooky cathedral and a rather snobbish looking club. And that’s Nelson.
Westport, 30th March
We’re on our way back to the West Coast, to Westport. A bit more than 200km, 3h on the road.
Nice landscapes and a perfect day to experience Kiwi weather.
On the way the famous monument of New Zealand’s most beloved creature: the Sandfly.
Especially Monika loves them. Wanna know why? Ask her.
In the afternoon we arrive in Westport. Well, not really 1 of the world’s great cities. We rather have the impression nothing really moves here. Laid back, everything a bit rundown, everything looks very conservative. Yeah, redneck country.
Punakaiki, 1st April
Near Westport there’s the former Denniston Coal Mine, now a lost place high above the coast in the mountains. It’s famous for its incline – a cable-hauled railway system with an incline of 80% to get the coal from the mine to the coast.
That’s what we have to see. Even if today there are not many parts of this technical masterwork still visible.
So, a short drive to Denniston, today just a tiny settlement and the starting point for the visit.
Then we’re on our way to Punakaiki. To visit our friends Teresa’n’Peter. Well, Teresa we know from our time in Lesotho, Peter even some years more from our period of intensified salary-slavery. Definitely, it’s about time to see them again – last time was in Ghana, 12 years ago.
On the way a short stop at Cape Foulwind, …
… then along the beautiful coast to Punakaiki.
In the afternoon we arrive, just on time for a few bottles of wine and to develop with Teresa’n’Peter the new vision of a world without Donnys and Vladys. Great, isn’t it?
The next morning: we have to admit nobody remembers exactly in all details our final vision of a better world we’ve elaborated yesterday. Probably some fresh air helps to reactivate our memories.
So, we’re on a hike on the Pororari Punakaiki Loop. Just a walk of 3h – and definitely not long enough to get back our memories. Maybe we used too much energy marveling at the beautiful forests. Who knows?
In the afternoon, a closer look at the coast in Punakaiki – quite a wild landscape.
Hi guys,
tired of reading this post. We agree, it’s not easy to read such a large amount of uninteresting and boring stuff, even if it inspires you enormously to head immediately for a trip to New Zealand. A contradiction? Sure, but you have to live with it.
Whatever, we wish you a nice time during the preparation of your visit to New Zealand and a lot of jealousy until you arrive here. If you hurry a bit, we’ll have a beer together. Here in New Zealand.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin