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New Zealand - North Island's Spectacular Tongariro Crossing
The last days on South Island, a short flight to Auckland, and along the Coromandel Peninsula to Tongariro for 1 of the world’s most spectacular hikes.
Punakaiki 2 Taupo
Hanmer Springs, 3rd April
The last 2 days, we’ve been staying with Teresa’n’Peter in Punakaiki. Great time, thank you very much!!! Now, it’s time to bid farewell. We still have to discover a bit more of the South Island before we fly on.
In Punakaiki CBD – the place with the enormous visitor center – there are the Pancake Rocks Blowholes. Just a few minutes to sneak to rocks. Of course, on a well developed trail, it’s even paved.
Then we’re on our way to Hanmer Springs on the east side of the island. About 250 km, 4h to drive along the beaches of the West Coast, a glimpse of the historic gold rush town of Reefton, then over the divide at Lewis Pass to the other side.
The next morning, it’s beautiful weather – bright sunshine, not a single cloud. We drive back to Lewis Pass, to the trailhead of the St. James Track. It’s a 65 km, 4-5 day hike – we only have 2 days left until Air New Zealand brings us to the next island, so it’s just about hiking a few km and back. Maybe not the worst idea considering the weather forecast.
Anyway, we drive the 75 km to the pass, enjoy the nice weather until we reach our destination at the divide. There, we’re in thick clouds.
Of course, no reason to be discouraged, we’re on the trail to enjoy the alpine landscape here.
In the afternoon we’re back in Hanmer Springs. Visibly the village gets pretty crowded. Well, it’s Easter weekend and rumors say that no Kiwi may stay at home during this time … maybe not.
Christchurch, 4th April
Our last day on the South Island. Yeah, after 6 weeks here, we think we need a change.
So, we’re driving back to Christchurch. Arriving there, we have to wash our poor Rusty – to comply with these strange habits of Kiwi car rental companies.
On to our sleepery and a short walk thru the CBD. Hey, surely you see it – autumn really has arrived.
Thames, 5th April
Early morning. On the way to the airport, we have to bid farewell to Rusty – our car for 6 weeks, always reliable despite its completely scratched and rusting bodywork.
Every day it lived up to its name a little more – even if all the scratches are hard to see after the wash.
Then on to the airport to catch our flight to Auckland. Yeah, it’s true, entering 1 of Air New Zealand’s plane is always a kind of a special experience – you have the impression of entering a room for grief. Black seat covers, black carpets, flight attendants dressed in muted colors.
Whatever, 1h 10′ and we land in Auckland.
At the airport to the car rental company. Again EZU – these Chinese guys renting old cars for prices very untypical for New Zealand. Not easy to get on their shuttle bus. No, not because the bus has broken down – no, our cellphone doesn’t want to connect to the Kiwi’s network.
Finally, we get a car. And what a car – after the experience with our beloved Rusty, we expect a vehicle we could call Scratchy, or Bangy. But we get a car without the slightest damage, its bright white body shines in the sun, reflecting even the sandflies buzzing around. What other name could be appropriate than Shiny. Great.
Then, we’re on our way to Thames on the Coromandel Peninsula – about 100km. A hell of a lot of oncoming traffic. All the guys driving back to Auckland after their incredible Easter weekend.
Yeah, it’s Easter Sunday evening in Thames. We’re looking for something to munch on – not easy today. Everything has closed down, except 1 pub. Arriving there, they just tell us that they’re sold out and closing right now. Fortunately, the nearby supermarket is a bit more generous. So we’re ending up with some pasta and water in our odd motel room. Yeah, public holidays in anglophone countries …
… supermarkets can’t even sell beer on these days.
Whitianga, 7th April
Another morning, Easter Sunday is luckily on the ash heap of history. A walk thru Thames’ CBD with some historic houses, some handy and many rather not too useful shops, and again a lot of traffic on the main road.
Then off, around Coromandel Peninsula to Whitianga. A journey along the coast, a few viewpoints and enormous traffic. Again all these poor people driving back from Easter holidays to Auckland – to enjoy salary slavery tomorrow.
A visit to Coromandel Village’s tourist oriented mainstreet. Then on to Whitianga.
In the afternoon, we’re in Whitianga. A village full of holiday homes, apartments, motels – whatever can be used as a sleepery for visitors. It looks like every Kiwi has to spend at least some time of their life in Whitianga.
Unfortunately, the weather deteriorates considerably. Another depression is approaching, promising at least 2 days of constant rain. Wowwwhhh, that’s exactly what we need.
The next day in the evening, at least the rain lets up a bit. A chance to go to the towns’s ultimate pub. Maybe not the coolest place, but close enough before getting completely soaked.
Turangi, 9th April
Another day, a better weather forecast. True, it’s still raining, foggy, wet, and ugly – but the MetService promises bright sunshine for the next few days. Maybe with a few clouds and showers, but generally ok.
So, we’re on our way to Turangi, the gateway to Tongariro National Park.
It’s quite a long drive, nearly 350km, 4h. Unfortunately, we still can’t see too much of the landscape – the weather is simply too miserable.
Turangi – probably you wouldn’t notice the village if you don’t stay there. A supermarket, a sleepery or 2, and 2 open eateries. Valentino, the Italian who drives away his customers with the bad odour of rancid oil, and the Tavern. A lousy pub with pretty ugly food, but excellent beer.
In the evening we’re busy checking out which day might be the best for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing – a 20km hike thru the North Island’s volcanoes. For that we need a shuttle bus booked in advance. Anyway, nothing is clear, it seems the weather depends mainly on the different meteorological apps we check. Finally, we opt for the day after tomorrow. As it’s Monika’s birthday, Martin has the opportunity to declare this her birthday gift. Great, isn’t it? Well, maybe not, let’s see.
The next morning: the nicest weather you can imagine – the opportunity to drive the Volcanic Loop Highway. Starting with the Desert Road. A journey along the volcanoes, passing thru a landscape with a bit less forest. That’s why the name.
After 60km we’re back to the forests. A short walk to some sacred lakes on the Rotokura Walk, …
On to the famous ski resort Whakapapa Village. There’s even a gondola bringing you up to the slopes of the volcano.
It’s just a short drive, then we’re at 2000m, not far from the top of Mount Ruapehu.
There are a few hikes up there with a great view. Just arriving there, thick clouds are coming up within minutes – and the view has definitely gone. What a shame, time to get back and drive to Turangi.
Taupo, 10th April
Well before 6am we’re already on our way to the pick-up point for the shuttle that drives us to the trailhead of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
Arriving there, we quickly realize, there are a few other people who have the same idea.
About 30′ by bus, then we’re at the trailhead, together with a few 100 other hikers, ready for the 20km trail. Said to be the most beautiful hike in the world, in competition with about 1000 others claiming the same attribute.
Before starting, of course the usual stop to follow the most urgent needs, a big signboard full of warnings and good or bad advice, and a ranger asking some people if they registered for the hike.
Then the long ascent starts. Well, just 800m up on a typical Kiwi-style trail highway with quite a few stairs.
After a bit more than 1h we come to the proof of how much the Kiwis care for the poor hikers – another big signboard with serious warnings to everyone not to continue, except the fittest hikers. You know, those who do Kilimanjaro before breakfast and Mt. Everest on a day trip.
It seems nobody is too impressed, all continuing their way up the Devil’s Staircase to reach the South Crater.
Despite the many stairs making the ascent a kind of ‘pleasure’ hike for advanced masochists, most hikers reach the rim.
A last chance to follow the most urgent needs for the next 4km, then along Mt. Ngauruhoe thru a crater, then the ascent to the Red Crater. Fortunately, the Kiwis got tired of building their hiking highway. No more stairs, no more gravel trails. Great.
A final short, but steep ascent – and we’re on the top of our hike. Of course, a magnificent view, probably the reason why the Kiwis think it’s the most beautiful hike in the world.
Still, a bit disappointed – we thought it would be harder, steeper, and longer to reach this point. Whatever, it’s ok we’re here now.
Yeah, sometimes it’s not easy to imagine how some people put themselves thru hell so that their nose with these lakes in the background is on a pic on Insta.
Yeah, that was the best part of the hike.
Remains the long way down to the place where Shiny waits impatiently for us. Passing thenot too impressive Blue Lake and then more than 10km on the slope of the mountains some 1000m down. Now again on 1 of the Kiwi’s overdeveloped trails. To be honest, a bit boring.
Around 3pm we arrive at the car park to drive on to Taupo – yeah, to escape this terrible pub in Turangi.
Yeah guys,
That’s it. Need a beer. Bye.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin