Arriving in Vai’are, Moorea’s ferry port, we have to walk quite a bit to get our car. Then on to our sleepery. Well, it’s a tiny house with a view of the sea. Principally a container with an open-air kitchen/ living room. Quite stylish, great.
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Society Islands - the Great Suffering for the Most Amazing View
The 2nd part of our trip to the wonderful Society Islands: Bora Bora, Maupiti, and Moorea. A visit with very different experiences on each island.
Bora Bora 2 Papeete
Bora Bora, 10th February
The last morning in Huahine. We’re at the port in Fare, waiting for Apetahi to arrive. A last glimpse of Fare’s not-too impressive high street, …
… then the ship arrives, and shortly after we’re on board heading for famous Bora Bora.
Short stops in Raiatea and Taha’a, then in the early afternoon, we arrive in Bora Bora. We’re ready to discover the reality of the island – not just the lagoon and a motu as we did 2 weeks ago on Aranui.
Someone is even waiting for us with the rented car – and off we are on the way to our sleepery. A bungalow, pretty nice, but definitely not perfectly located in a back alley leading to a stretch of muddy sea.
Whatever, we’re not far from the nice public Matira Beach with a good watering hole. So, all ok.
We even find some rays passing by in the shallow water – and unfortunately some signs indicating how unhappy certain inhabitants are with Bora Bora’s mass tourism. Somehow understandable if you consider these huge cruise ships every day and the ultra luxury sleeperies on the motus, where some guys spend more than a local month’s salary each’n’every night, without breakfast. Not nice or polite, but reality.
Whatever, in the evening the beach is a wonderful place to enjoy a beer and marvel at the sunset.
The next morning: we need a hike. Last evening somebody told us about the best hike on the island – towards Mt. Mataihua. Not too high, and with an excellent view. Let’s see if they’re right.
At the starting point we lose our way a bit. Even knowing that the Bora Boris try hard to force everyone to always hike with an expensive guide, we have to ask somebody. Astonishingly, a very friendly guy explains us everything. Then he lets his dog come with us to show us exactly where to go. Perfect, and very different from the impression we’ve got yesterday at the beach.
It’s a very muddy trail, slippery and partly overgrown. But with excellent viewpoints to see Bora Bora in all its beauty.
Back to our bungalow. It’s raining in the afternoon, so time to test our washing machine and continue blog poetry.
In the evening, after our sundowner, we head to our usual roulotte in Bora Bora. The place where everybody eats huge plates especially made for a Polynesian appetite.
The 2nd day in Bora Bora. The opportunity to drive the island’s ring road. Just a few km along the coast.
A 1st stop at a small peninsula. You can walk to its end, passing a US WW II cannon lost in the jungle. Well, in the latter we’re not too interested. Probably that’s more for brave US citizens who wanna know where their grandpas were waiting for the Japs to arrive. Whatever, at the junction to the peninsula there’s some space to leave the car and a guy hanging around, asking for money for the maintenance of whatever it might be. Visibly, they just discovered a way to get some money from poor tourists into their pockets.
Quickly, we’re off to the next highlight Google mentions. The Marae Fare-Opu. Famous for its rock petroglyphs. Unfortunately, it’s fully occupied by a tour group with a guide telling stories forever. It reminds us a bit of certain situations on Aranui. Well, even when we ask him politely after waiting quite a long time if he couldn’t step a little bit aside, he got quite rude – in French, so the innocent US tourists couldn’t understand and rethink their over-the-top tip. Yeah, tourism in Bora Bora.
Dear reader, should you see this guy during your next trip to Bora Bora, please feel free to tell him in detail how much we’ve appreciated his reaction.
Despite these rather negative experiences we make today, we’re not yet ready to be completely discouraged. So, on to the next spot – a huge Banyan tree in the jungle. Not a long hike, just 1/2h to reach this place.
We even decide to go a bit further, to a nearby marae. On the way we pass a few guys harvesting avocados. As expected today, 1 of them starts shouting behind us that it’s strictly forbidden to hike on the island without a guide. We speak a few words with him, he calms down a bit. But still remains our skightly negativ impression of Bora Boris. Something we never had so far in French Polynesia.
Later we’re driving back to our bungalow, rather disillusioned and a bit frustrated by the locals’ behaviour.
Of course, all this cannot avoid us going to our all-preferred watering hole. And even have our last dinner on the island there.
Now you surely want to know, what’s with world famous Bora Bora, the island of dreams of cold-plagued northerners, the island where people need to go for honeymoon – and a few years later with their biggest secret since marriage.
Well, it’s easy. We think the lagoon and the beaches on some motus are awesome. Definitely go for that. Maybe not in 1 of these 1000$ a night US-chain sleeperies.
Going to the island itself, maybe it’s better to avoid it. Here the impact of tourism has simply been too negative to make it an enjoyable trip. Probably the island is just the place to stay somewhere at a reasonable cost.
Maupiti, 6th February
Our last morning in Bora Bora. Time to head for new adventures. Early afternoon we’re driving to the port. Then we’re on the Apetahi ferry bound for Maupiti. The most remote and isolated of the Society Islands, still not much touched by tourism and described as 1 of the most wonderful places to visit. Just 1 ½ h to cross to the tiny harbour of Vai’ea. Quite a spectacular, narrow channel thru the outer reef between 2 motus to reach the island.
At the port it takes a while to find the truck driving us to our pension familiale. Looks like we’ve arrived in a timelapse some 40 years ago. It’s fiercely hot and extremely humid on the island. Fortunately, arriving at our sleepery we learn that there’s air conditionning. What a relief. Just the a/c only produces hot air. And opening the windows isn’t a real option considering all these hungry mozzies buzzing around. Especially as they removed all the mosquito nets because of the AC.
Whatever, we’re at the shore, the next beach is just a 10’ walk.
Then it’s already time for a sundowner at the guesthouse’s beach front.
The next morning, it’s the time when it becomes very clear who is the reasonably acting part of us. Monika knows exactly how stupid it is to climb a mountain at 30 degrees and 200% humidity in the scorching sun, especially if she knows that the upper part is a climb with a number of ropes. While Martin needs to show that despite his stupid accident last October and his age when even men normally come to their senses, it’s peanuts for him to get up on Mt. Teurafaatiu.
So, we have separate programs. Monika sneaks to a nearby viewpoint, takes a lot of pictures, and returns to the guesthouse to sort out the millions of pictures taken in Polynesia. Sounds very reasonable, albeit a bit boring.
Now to Martin’s activities. A 1st unsuccessful attempt to reach Mt. Teurafaatiu by a trail going up directly from our sleepery. No problem, there are some bikes to borrow in the guesthouse. They’re absolutely lousy, worn out Chinese models, but who cares, it’s just 4km to reach the trailhead on the other side of the island. The only slight problem might be the temperature. It’s already 10 am and fiercely hot – normally people go for this hike at 6am.
At least the trail is visible and clearly marked. But, it goes straight up, pretty steep.
After a few minutes a 1st viewpoint. Time to cool down a bit.
On thru dense jungle with a lot of wild mango trees. After 40’ the 1st ropes. Not to climb vertical rocks, just because it’s steep and can be slippery when wet. Then the next viewpoint. Now at about 300m elevation, quite spectacular.
Despite all warnings we’ve received at the guesthouse, still no sheer cliffs to conquer and no bottomless chasms to cross.
After about 1h Martin reaches the top at 370m. Of course, pretty exhausted from the heat and the extremely steep trail.
Well, maybe the opportunity to think about being reasonable or adventurous. Whatever, time to admire the probably most amazing view French Polynesia has to offer.
Just a few 100m on Mt. Teurafaatiu’s plateau to reach its other side on a nearly invisible trail.
Then the long way back to the ring road and …
… back to the guesthouse – on this awful bike.
And the afternoon? A story quickly told.
The 2nd day in Maupiti: yesterday we’ve tried hard to find someone taking us out to the lagoon for snorkeling. Still, it’s definitely off-season, the guys here enjoy their well deserved hibernation. So no chance for that.
No problem, there’s a good alternative, a nearby motu you can walk to. It’s a little less than a km thru shallow water.
Then along the motu’s beach to reach a large coral garden. Despite the shallow water and the strong current, the snorkeling is excellent, with very clear water and colourful corals, but very few fish.
A last evening in our guesthouse and 1 last super hot night in our room with the airconditioner just producing hot air.
The next morning, we have to get up quite early. The guesthouse is nice enough to provide transport to the ferry dock, and we have to say goodbye to beautiful Maupiti.
Now, what’s with Maupiti? Clearly, go for it. Surely, it’s different from the other islands. You won’t find luxury accommodation, or decent eateries. It’s guesthouses. But you live in Polynesia as it was some 50 years ago – at least how we imagine it was at that time.
You won’t find car rentals, you walk or you take 1 of these awful Chinese bikes. Hiking is easy, nobody bothers you, nobody will insist on any guides, entrance fees, or whatever. Just, most hikes are strenuous in the hot climate.
Snorkeling? Perfect, just it’s not guaranteed that a tour will be available that day. Maybe you have to go on your own.
So, if you’re ready to leave a bit of comfort behind you – definitely don’t miss this small island.
It takes more than 8h on the ferry to reach Papeete. It’s just 370km, but the ship has to stop at each’n’every island on its way: Bora Bora, Taha’a, Raiatea, and Huahine. So, it’s definitely not a boring journey, even if we have seen all of them.
In the late afternoon, we arrive at French Polynesia’s proud capital. Time to buy a few things, go into a watering hole cum eatery – and …
Moorea, 17th February
… the next morning we’re again on a ferry: to Moorea, just 30′ away.
Quite a lot of tourists on the boat. Mainly brave US-citizens on their dream trip – after a cruise on a 5000 passenger ship, now they’re heading to 1 of these US-chain sleeperies with overwater bungalows. You know, where these guys get exactly the kind of luxury they need: soggy burgers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Budweiser industrial plonk, and a room with a armchair full of dog hair the hotels import regularly from carefully selected US dogs.
The next morning we’re off to explore the interior of the island. Must be fantastic considering the landscape we can see from the ring road.
We drive to the Belvédère d’Opunhu, the most famous lookout in Moorea. So, there’s probably not a single tourist in Moorea who’s doesn’t come here. So, it’s a crowded place with huge tour buses, minibuses, safari cars, and even a few rental cars. Of course, they just stop for a few minutes so that everyone can take a selfie of their beautiful mug. Then they’re off – you know, time is money.
For us, it’s the trailhead for the 3 Coconut Trees Pass. A hike thru some very dense and diverse jungle with some great views.
Definitely, it’s a very slippery, muddy trail – no wonder it’s raining every day for a few minutes. But, the jungle is beautiful, with so many different trees and other plants, and some awesome viewpoints on the way.
It’s about 2h to reach the top, with some ropes on the upper part. Then a bit along the plateau until the trail is too overgrown to continue.
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Then we head back to our tiny house. To wash our sneakers.
Another day, more to see in Morea. Except for the walk, we haven’t seen anything on the island yet. So, we’re on our way on Moorea’s ring road.
An opportunity to see the mountains from different perspectives and to check-out the few public beaches they have.
Maybe a word of warning: Don’t expect to go for a swim or snorkeling wherever you like in Moorea. Most of the coastline is privatized. So, the road runs along fenced, developed and undeveloped properties – and you won’t see too much of the sea. True, it’s a mess, but there’s no chance to enter with all these fences and dogs they have.
A little north of Vai’ape there’s a viewpoint full of tourists. That we have to see. Well, it’s just the view of Moorea’s Sofitel – a French luxury sleepery, no idea if they also import dog hair to distribute in their bugalows for US tourists.
Nearby is the Temae public beach. The island’s most famous 1 and the 1 notorous for bad girls breaking cars of poor tourists.
Whatever, time for a swim and some snorkeling to check out the underwater world next to Sofitel – well, it’s not a prime snorkeling spot, as water isn’t too clear. Maybe you realize, in the meantime we’re a bit spoiled when it comes to the underwater world.
Back to the car. These naughy girls didn’t touch it. Lucky us.
We drive on, along the north coast – 1 house beside the other, in between some sleeperies, and along the road many shops selling everything poor tourists may need.
Finally, we arrive at the next public beach, Plage de Ta’ahiamanu. The landscape is spectacular, the beach a bit less. Still ok for a swim.
A last place we plan to visit: Marae Ti’i-rua and Marae-o-Mahine. Another 2 of those mystical places in the forest – the remains of a culture slowly fading away, with moss creeping all over, and some trees growing in between the rocks, but still decorated by the local population.
And in the evening? It’s our last dinner in Moorea. A roulotte selling too cheesy pizza. Yeah, that’s the island’s gourmet scene on a Tuesday when most of the eateries have closed.
And what’s with Moorea? Well, probably the nicest landscape of all the Society Islands, with some great opportunities to hike without guides or other hassles.
On the other side, access to beaches is definitely limited. Most of the coastline is privatized and out of reach of the public.
Finally, you must know, Moorea is a pretty touristy place. Fortunately, it concentrates largely on the north coast and a few international hotels. So, independant travellers have few points of contact with this organised form of tourism.
So, go for it. Just know what you get.
Papeete, 18th March
Yeah, the next morning we’re on our way back to Tahiti. Our last island in French Polynesia – what a pity.
More about this and the continuation of our trip in our next post. So, enjoy what you have now, and wonder what will happen next. And most importantly – remain jealous..
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin