l
Thru Southeast Europe, Part 3: Towards Romania's Heartland
An epic journey from northern Romania’s painted churches, thru the Carpathian Mountains, to finally reach the well-known Transylvanian region.
Sucevita 2 Cisnadioara
Sucevita, 19th September
This morning, we’re definitely leaving Vișeu de Sus, heading east to visit the famous Moldavia Monasteries. Part of the Moldavian Orthodox Church, they are known for their amazing interior and exterior paintings. A number of them are part of the UNESCO World Heritage.
About 140km to reach the village of Moldovița, where the 1st monastery is located. On the way we’re crossing the 1400m high Prislop Pass.
Arriving in Moldovița, we pay a modest entrance fee to a nun who seems a bit out of this world.
Then we’re in to admire the church.
Astonishingly, we suddenly find ourselves in the middle of a Spanish-speaking bus tour. Over 50 people are squeezing into the small church, making the hell a lot of noise as everyone tries to get into the best spot for the ultimate Insta pic.
Time to move on to Sucevița, higher up in the Carpathian mountain range.
Upon arrival, we visit the fortress-like monastery with the next painted church, which is partly under restoration.
Then we’re getting ready for a rather cold night.
Durau, 21th September
The next morning, the sun is back. The temperature rises from a chilly 5° to a comfortable 15°.
We’re off to visit more monasteries, starting with Arbore, said to be one of the most beautiful. When we arrive, we find the entire exterior completely covered in scaffolding, and the interior is closed. What a shame.
So, we move on to the next one: Humorolui Monastery. It’s beautiful, but to be honest, it looks a lot like the others.
Then, on to Voronet. To visit the regions most famous monastery.
Enough of colourfully painted monasteries. Time to relax at a nearby campsite.
Despite the beautiful sunshine, the temperature is just 5°. Fortunately, we installed a diesel heater a few months ago.
We’re on our way to the must-drive Transrarău mountain road, which is just 26km long.
On the top of the pass, a kind of an Alpine-style hotel, an eatery, and the chance for a short hike to the rocky top of a mountain, Pietrele Doamnei. Just an hour and a few 100m up. Well, it’s the weekend, so quite a few people have the same idea.
On to the tiny village of Durau, near Lacul Bicaz. No wonder you’ve never heard of it – it’s in the middle of nowhere. Still, there’s a pretty lonely campsite to spend the night.
Sighisoara, 22th September
Today, we’ll finally reach Romania’s Transylvania. A region largely influenced by German settlers since the 13th century and famous for Romania’s most well-known citizen Count Dracula – the king of the vamps.
The 1st part thru the Bicazului Gorge. Again, a must-drive road for every visitor. Since it’s a Sunday, we’re definitely not the only ones.
Then, on to Sighisoara, about 190km away thru a pretty remote and laid-back valley.
In the late afternoon, we arrive in Sighisoara. Stay at a campsite near the historic old town.
So, plenty of reason to go for a visit – sneak thru the CBD’s cobblestone alleys, admire the German-influenced architecture, and finally enjoy a dinner at 1 of the town’s al fresco eateries.
Martinie, 25th September
We’re on our way to Sibiu. Right in the heart of Transylania. A trip thru hilly landscape and some villages that reflect their German heritage.
A stop at the town of Medias. Another German-founded settlement with a pretty nice center.
Quickly, we find a nice parking spot for the van. Next to a huge square with the abandoned Hotel Central on 1 side – just another masterpiece of Ceaușescu’s incredible socialist architecture.
In the early afternoon, we arrive in the small village of Carta, at a pretty nice campsite. It isn’t until later in the evening that we realize how many other travellers had exactly the same idea to stay here.
In the last days, we’ve crossed the Carpathian range several times. Still, it never really felt like a trip through the mountains. To us, it’s been more like a journey through hilly landscapes with a few rocks in between.
Today, that impression should definitely change. We’re driving the Transfagarasan. Said to be Romania’s most beautiful and alpine road. It climbs up to 2000m, high above the treeline. Adding to the thrill is the fact that the whole area seems to be infested with bears, waiting for tourists to pass by and feed them. Of course, that’s completely forbidden, but you know how it goes…
Quickly we reach the highest point at a a bit more than 2000m. A huge, completely overprized parking, food stalls along the road, a sleepery, a lake, and whatever else is needed to enjoy the beautiful alpine landscape.
We cross the mountain range thru an old tunnel desperately crying for maintenance. On the other side, a sharp descent leeds us into a long, forested valley. And that’s bear country.
In the late afternoon, we arrive at a campsite near Curtea de Argeș in the Wallachia region. Time for a beer and something to munch on to celebrate such a great drive.
We’re definitely planning to return to beautiful Transylvania. To do that, we’ll have to cross the Carpathian range again. Luckily, there’s another mountain road supposed to be stunning – the Transalpina. About 100km to the west. A drive on small roads, passing thru laid-back rural areas.
On the way, we stop at the Hurezi Monastery, built in the 17th century in the only original Romanian style –Brâncovenesc – and famous for the church paintings. And another UNESCO site.
In front of the church, there are pretty explicit paintings showing, in all detail, what will happen if you don’t behave on earth. Whatever, you’re warned.
Finally, the Transalpina starts in the village of Novaci, climbing thru pasture lands up to over 2000 meters.
Astonishingly, unlike the Transfagarasan, there are very few visitors, even though we think the drive is even better, if not more spectacular.
By late afternoon, we’re back in the Transylanian lowlands. At a brand-new campsite near the tiny village of Martinie.
Time for a beer.
Cisnadioara, 26th March
Yeah, we’re back to Transylvania with its German-influenced towns. We’re heading to Alba Iulia, a town known for its white buildings inside the massive Alba Carolina Fortress.
Despite the impressive buildings and all the churches, the place feels a bit lifeless to us, kind of like a museum. So, it’s not really worth an extended visit.
We’re heading towards Sibiu, just a short drive east. we’re going to the Ananas Campsite situated about 10km outside Sibiu, a place highly recommended by many people. When we arrive, we find out that management has recently changed. Now, it’s proof how quickly good things can go bad. Anyway, it’s a chance to do some laundry.
With this all glowing appreciation of our campsite, this post definitely comes to an end. We know you’ve got more productive things to do than reading our posts.
But hey, do what you have to, but stay jealous, and patiently wait for our next post. Soon.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin