l
Our journey from Dumaguete to Bantayan Island north of Cebu. Then on to Manila. A town neglected by many travellers. We think wrongly.
We’re still in Dumaguete, the town with the numerous old-man-young-girl-eateries.
We think we’ve seen what we have to see, so we’re off to Cebu City. Yes, again Cebu City. Not because we love it that much, rather because it’s the jump-off point for our next beach adventure.
About a 5h trip on 1 of these speedboats of OceanJet to reach Cebu City. Everything is really crowded. Yeah, x-mas just came to an end, so many people are returning from their families.
We arrive only in the evening. So, just a beer, something to munch on, and a nap before we move on the next morning.
Then we’re on our way to Hagnaya in north Cebu – the jump-off point to Bantayan Island. Hagnaya is just 100 km away, but still nearly 4h to drive. Traffic in Cebu City and its numerous suburbs is terrible.
Then, 1h with a boat to reach Santa Fe on the island. Well, interesting boat, problably has seen better days very long time ago.
Arriving in Batayan, we take a tricycle to our sleepery. Well, New Year’s Eve is approaching, so everything seems to get fully booked. And for us, we booked the most beautiful place which still had some availabilities on the booking platforms.
Arriving there, we’re slightly wondering if this sleepery has not closed down many years ago. Everything so rundown, non-functioning, and just a few youngsters hanging around. Still, we get a room to leave our stuff and to go searching for something a bit more reasonable.
Well, we find another place, not perfect, but much better.
So, we learn it again – don’t trust these platforms too much, even if you need them sometimes.
And for you, esteemed readers, should you think of going to Hoyohoy Villas. You’ll just lose your money, as we did.
Another day, another activity. Even a strange one.
Soon our journey thru the Philippines comes to an end. So, we have to prepare a bit for our next destination. As we come to know that many places in French Polynesia are heavily booked, exceptionally we have to make some reservations.
So, we’re busy the whole day checking out sleeperies, finding out who the hell rents a car on these islands, and fighting with strange booking systems, not working credit cards, etc. What a pleasure.
Anyway, in the evening we’ve almost done what we have to do.
The next morning it’s time for a small excursion. To some nearby islands. Well, we rent a small boat. They promise us the ultimate journey to the nicest corals we’ve ever seen, then to the most beautiful island on earth, and finally to a mysterious lagoon – an adventurer’s playground.
It’s just a short ride to reach the reef with these incredible corals. And we’re underwater, snorkeling. About half an hour. Well, what we’ve seen is definitely a little bit below our expectations. Sorry, guys.
On to the world’s most beautiful island. They call it Virgin Island – who knows the reason for that.
It’s definitely true it’s a nice island. Still, upon arrival we have the impression it lost its virginity quite some time ago.
It looks like a clever guy invested in tourism development. A building where visitors hand over quite a few Pesos to some smart ladies (they call it an ecological fee), umbrellas’n’chairs everywhere, a pricey eatery, and some well developed short trails between the white beaches. So, maybe more a holiday park than a virgin island.
Finally, on to this lagoon – you remember, every adventurer’s dream. Arriving there, we have to pay another ecological fee, then we’re free to explore whatever we want.
Unfortunately, we quickly find out, that the famous lagoon is inaccessible from this point. In reality we just paid an entrance fee to a restaurant with a lousy swimming pool at a not so clean beach.
And what to think about that? Easy, a rip-off.
By early afternoon we’re back to in Santa Fe. And that’s it.
And in the afternoon? We’re busy again with booking our trip to French Ploynesia. Many sleeperies and car rentals inform us that they need an upfront payment to guarantee the booking. To do so, we get all kinds of links – no idea what is real, what is just an idea of some sketchy girls trying to get our money. So, we’re busy again.
It’s New Year’s Eve. So, time for a huge party tonight.
In reality, in Santa Fe, the evening is very quiet. A lot of restaurants are closed, only a few people on the streets and many in the church. Strange but true. Just on the village’s main street there’s some music – at least that.
Early next morning we’re heading to the airport – AirAsia bound for Manila. A no frills flight, but on time and without losing our bags. What else do you need?
2h later we’re in Manila, the Filipie’s proud capital. We take a Grab (you know, the Filipie’s version of Uber) to our sleepery at Burgos Street. Looks like that’s where life is at it’s best. We thought it’s an animated area with decent urban vibe, a lot of eateries – well, a change from quiet island life. It turns out it’s more a slightly filthy, run-down road with streetside coffee shops full of old men drinking beer looking for young girls and young girls looking for old, beer-drinking men.
Whatever, fun to grab a beer there and just watch this special part of life passing by.
The next morning the real sensation of Burgos Street. No, not what these old men think it is – no it’s the Filling Station. A US diner with the hell a lot of stuff these US-Americans had in the ’50s. You know these years the Trump-MAGies think were the best in their grandparents’ life.
And for us the perfect spot for breakfast.
Visibly, Martin is not at Burgos Street for its exiting nightlife. Monika would be too stressful.
So, next morning we decide to explore Manila’s Chinatown. To avoid starting our sightseeing with the rather lifeless, touristy spots. Again a Grab to the town center, then we sneak thru the old alleys of this part of Manila.
We follow Escolta Street. Formerly, 1 of Manila’s poshest area, today it definitely lost a bit of its glory.
Then we’re suddenly in the middle of a major traffic jam with all vehicles decorated with the statues of saints, music playing, people hanging around, ect. We’re in the middle of the preparation of 1 of Manila’s most important religious festival, the Feast of Saint Nazarene, which will take place in a few days. And all these cars, jeepneys, bikes, tricycles, handcarts with these saints on the top – they’re just here waiting for their blessing.
We’re heading to the Quiapo Church. It’s packed – difficult to enter, we think we’ve never seen such a full church.
Enough of the crowds. Let’s visit Ongpin Road – the heart of Manila’s Chinatown.
We even discover every electrician’s ultimate challenge to prove their skills.
And that’s it for Chinatown.
The next morning, new adventures. Well, today rather small adventures: a visit to Manila’s famous Intramuros. The part of town built by the Spanish, completely destroyed during WW II, and since then partly restored. The part of Manila every brave tourist has to see.
Another Grab to the town center. We’re lucky, it’s a Sunday. So next to no traffic. We reach Intramuros in less than 30’ – normally a trip which takes at least 3h.
We sneak thru the tidy cobblestone alleys, all cleaned and heavily secured by numerous armed guys. It’s all a bit dead. Visibly all maintained to make visitors happy.
Finally, a look at the San Agustin Church, 1 of the very few buildings of the Spanish era that was never destroyed by earthquakes, fires, or wars.
Then on to Rizal Park. The place dedicated to Philippine’s national hero Jose Ritzal. And the place for poor Manilies to chill a bit during the weekends.
Back to our sleepery at Burgos Street. Later we have the great idea to check out the temperature in our next destination, Hongkong.
Then we know, what we have to do tomorrow: buy some warm jackets in 1 of the nearby shopping malls.
In the late afternoon we need some real urban vibe: a nearby rooftop terrace. A drink on the 32nd floor with a superb view.
Next day, after the usual breakfast at our all-time favorite Filling Station we’re heading to a shopping mall near Makati’s Ayala Triangle. Of course, it’s also a chance to admire some of Manila’s skyscrapers in the banking quarter.
We also discover a few pretty strange things in Makati:
For example the statue of a crying guy. No idea why the hell he cannot stop shouting.
The other thing is a slightly old-fashioned, rundown building. On top are big signs: TRUMP. Well, Google confirms it’s really Uncle Donny has his part in it – even if it’s not golden. Shame on this guy.
We go to one of the huge shopping malls to buy some warm clothes. Logically, we think Decathlon might be a good place to get something decent. Unfortunately, their shop is so small, they have no space for outdoor jackets. Well, we find them in a Japanese store.
Back to slightly filthy Burgos Road. We change the sleepery. Because tomorrow’s flight is pretty early, we prefer to stay in one of these places next to the airport.
Hey guys,
That’s it for this post – and for the Philippines. We have just 1 last evening left; tomorrow we’ll be sitting on the plane heading toward new, hopefully more exiting adventures.
Of course, remains our final impressions of this country after one month travelling around:
Easy to say: very mixed. And to tell you the truth, somehow we definitely expected more of it – we expected it to be a bit more adventurous and slightly more unusual.
But, most of the places we’ve been to are simply too crowded with tourists, too organized to handle these masses of people with minimal effort, and too geared towards visitors who are happy with everything they get for their money. Of course, there were a few places that felt different – unfortunately not too many.
From reading all these blogs and books before we arrived, we got the impression of a largely intact underwater world. In the end, we found mainly dead or dying corals and next to no fish.
So, we’re glad to have seen a number of islands and many photogenic beaches and sunsets, but the Philippines are no longer on our bucket list. Sorry, Philippines.
Guys, with these inspiring words, we say goodbye for now. Keep your jealousy and wait impatiently for the next post. It will be from a more interesting part of the world.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin