South East Europe, Part 6: Thru South Bulgaria and Greece on the Way Back to Swizzyland

Our last days in Bulgaria: the Rila Monastery and Melnik, then off to Greece. Some lazy days in Halkidiki before heading to the west, to Igoumenitsa to catch the ferry to Ancona, and then on to cold’n’foggy Swizzyland for hibernation.

Sofia 2 Luzern

Melnik, 11^th October

Martin has seen what has to be seen in Sofia, while Monika’s busy saying goodbye to her food poisoning.

So, we’re on our way to the south, to Blagoevgrad.

We’re skipping the Rila Mountains, which is a shame. But all the spots up in the mountains are already closed or nearly impossible to reach because of the cold.

Whatever, we’re heading for the famous Rila Monastery instead – the biggest in the country, supposedly the most beautiful, and definitely a tourist hotspot, especially for all those doing city trips to Sofia.

When we get there, the official parking lot is packed with big tour buses. Who cares – just 5′ away, we find some roadside parking for the van and save the parking fee.

Then we’re ready to blend in with the crowds.

The most famous part is the Orthodox Church in the middle of the monastery’s huge square. Of course, again with vivid paintings that dramatically show what will happen if you don’t live a god-fearing and chaste life.

Later, we drive on to the town of Blagoevgrad. An absolutely nondescript place, just ok for spending the night and grabbing a nice dinner.

True, we’ve missed the Rila Mountains. But since there’s another range just south of it, the Pirin Mountains, we’re trying to do a bit better this time. So, we’re taking some back roads to see a little bit of it, even in autumn.

1^st, we drive to Bansko, a well-known ski resort in Bulgaria. This time of the year, still in hibernation.

Then we head around Pirin National Park, crossing the Popovi Livadi Pass on our way to the village of Melnik.

The last few km thru the wine estates Melnik is famous for.

Then we arrive in Melnik. A tiny village famous for its houses of the Rebirth Era. Even though it doesn’t seem very lively at the moment, most of the houses are converted into sleeperies, eateries, or watering holes. It seems like only 1 house escaped the conversion to cater to poor tourists – the former mansion of a Greek wine producer, now converted into a small museum.

Then, it’s already time for our last dinner in Bulgaria – and of course, we have to go for something super typical to celebrate the great end of our trip here.

Nea Moudania, 14^th October

This morning, a very short drive to the Greek border.

On the way, some shopping at 1 of Bulgaria’s huge Kaufland supermarkets, and then we fill up the van with cheap Bulgarian diesel.

Then we cross the border within minutes, head to Thessaloniki and finally reach Nea Moudania in Halkidiki. There’s 1 of the few remaining campsites still open in October.

Time for some much-needed laundry and an extended sundowner at the beach.

The next morning: of course, we’re not just sitting at the beach for days We still plan to explore a bit of the Halkidiki Peninsulas. Today, Kassandra.

Honestly, we’re a bit disappointed with it. The entire eastern side of Kassandra is scattered with hotels and holiday apartments, leaving few spots to actually get to the beach. The villages mostly cater to tourists’ urgent needs like hats, t-shirts, and sunscreen. Pretty ugly places. We only found 1 nice beach freely accessible.

Orange Beach, 15^th October

We’ve seen Kassandra. Now let’s see if Halkidiki’s 2^nd peninsula is any better.

So, we’re on our way to Sithonia. Said to be much less developed and crowded.

It’s true – only a few villages, lots of forests, and next to no tourist infrastructure. So, time to check out some beaches. Already by the 2^nd 1 we visit, we decide to stay.

Just a few other vans around, hardly any visitors, and crystal clear turquoise water.

Igoumenitsa, 19^th October

The next morning, we head to Sithonia’s southernmost point. Along the way, some more untouched beaches and a really strange spot: the so-called ghost town of Kriaritsi. Back in the 1980s, they planned a town with thousands of residents, but aside from the access roads to every future house, no other construction ever happened. Today, it’s an uninhabited area, with crumbling roads and some sheep grazing on the plots where houses with beautiful gardens were supposed to be constructed.

By the way, you can still buy a plot here if you’re in the mood for a hermit lifestyle.

Then back to Nea Moudania, to the campsite we’ve stayed before. We just notice it’s getting a little emptier each day.

No wonder given that the weather forecast predicts rain and cold weather over the next few days.

And for us? Well, we book the ferry to Ancona to head back to Swizzyland sometime next week. Well, we’re more than lucky – there’s still some space available on Anek Lines, even though camping on board is fully booked. So, we can avoid the terrible Minoan ferries.

The next morning, it’s cloudy and pretty cold. We’re ready to head west, to Igoumenitsa, where we’ll catch the ferry next Sunday.

About 450km, mostly on highways. So, it shouldn’t take more than 5h to get there.

It’s true, the weather by the Ionian Sea is much better than in the east. We’re heading to the same campsite we stayed last year, just before starting our trip thru the Balkans (no posts on that – we’re too lazy).

We’ve got 2 days left before the ferry leaves for Italy. So, what to do? Weather’s nice, but it’s not too warm.

We finally decide to visit Kerkyra, Corfu’s well-known capital. Of course, we’d never even think about going to Corfu during high season, when hordes of tourists flock in for their budget holidays in lousy, old sleeperies. When 10.000s overburdened parents arrive with their hyper schoolkids, eager to brag to their friends at school about how far they’ve traveled.

But now? In October, it’s supposed to be fine.

We quickly buy 2 tickets online and drive to the nearby port of Igoumenitsa.

Now we’re already on the ferry to Kerkyra. Just a bit over 1h to arrive.

As we approach Corfu, we quickly realize we won’t be alone. 3 huge cruise ships are getting rid of 1000s of passengers. Well, a slight pain in the ass. Maybe we’re lucky and these folks will head for an adventurous island tour.

To start, we’re visiting Kerkyra’s New Fortress. Well, it’s not really new, it’s just a bit newer than the 2^nd fortress, the old 1.

Next, to the old town. There are 2 distinct parts: 1 where the crowds of tourists sneak through, even in October, alleys lined with souvenir shops offering everything you wouldn’t dare to give as a gift to your mother-in-law but might be still good enough for Auntie Julie, or Uncle Edward. Of course, you can buy all this stuff outside Corfu as well. Just follow this link to arrive at shopper’s paradise.

And the other part? Often just meters from the souvenir shops – small alleys with houses in desperate need of restoration, graffiti-decorated facades, and the locals’ motorbikes parked everywhere. And not a single tourist in sight.

Of course, there are also some Orthodox churches, elegant esplanades, and alleys where only locals sip on a beer, along with places where a guide informs tour-subgroup 147 from a Mediteranean adventure cruise about whatever nobody wants to know.

Looks like that’s Kerkyra – 1 of the oldest tourist hotspots in Greece.

After a few hours, we’ve seen the town. It’s time to head back on the ferry to Igoumenitsa.

So, we’ve seen the famous Kerkyra. And still, we’re not sure if it was really worth it.

Lucerne, 22^nd October

On October 20^th, it’s time to say goodbye to Greece. In the afternoon, the ferry departs for Ancona, Italy.

Time to head to the port in Igoumenitsa, see how bureaucratic is the shipping company, and …

… queue up for boarding.

It looks like a real exodus from Greece. 100s of vans and motorhomes are escaping the bad weather forecast in Greece.

A little later, we’re on our way to Ancona – 17h, until tomorrow morning. Time to chill on deck, enjoy something to munch on and some beers, and get a good sleep to be ready for the incredible adventures awaiting us in Italy.

By noon, we arrive in Ancona. Ready for whatever Italy has to offer. But let’s see – we don’t plan to spend much time here. Weather forecast is simply too bad and large parts of Italy are inundated. And besides, Italy is not really famous for its campsites, except at the beach.

So, we plan to reach Parma today to head to Lucerne tomorrow.

It takes some time to reach the highway to Parma. More than 50km to drive. On the way, we definitely experience the Italian enthusiasm for highway access roads. Every km surprises us with the engineers’ innovative spirit and their ability to turn straight things into puzzles to keep bored drivers entertained. It´s a bit like Italian politics. Whatever, after more than an hour, 50 red lights, 100 roundabouts, 10.000 crazy drivers, and nearly constant traffic jams, we finally make it.

Then a bit more than 3h for the 350km.

Late in the afternoon, we arrive in Parma. Just in time to sneak thru the old town’s alleys, check out a few sights, and …

… try an Italian eatery for a real Italian dinner.

The next morning, we’re on our way to Lucerne, Swizzyland. Some 450km and a 5h drive. On the way, we stop at an Italian supermarket to buy whatever is rarely available in Swizzyland.

In the afternoon, we arrive in Lucerne – and that’s the end of this journey. A trip of 7 weeks and nearly 7000km, much better and more interesting than we ever expected.

Now, it’s just a matter of cleaning the van and getting it ready for hibernation.

Esteemed readers, hi guys,

That´s it for this post and for this trip. We´re back in Swizzyland, gearing up for hibernation, or another escape – who knows?

So, at least for now, no more of these boring posts, and you better forget your jealousy – until further notice.

Cheeeers

Monika´n´Martin