Palawan, said to be the most beautiful island of the Philippines, then on to Cebu and Bohol in the Visayas. A journey a bit affected by amazing overtourism in certain areas.
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Philippine's Palawan and the Visayas
Coron 2 Panglao
El Nido, 13th December
We think we’ve seen what Busuanga Island has to offer. So, we’re on our way from Coron to El Nido in Palawan. Just 3,5 h in a speedboat. Somehow the trip we initially planned to do for 4 – 5 days, hopping from 1 island to the next, is now sacrificed to Martin’s lousy accident in his own kitchen.
Of course, the speedboat skips pretty far off the coastline, so there’s not really much to see.
We head straight to Corong-Corong Beach, a few km outside the El Nido tourist hotspot.
Then it’s already time for a sumptuous sea-monster-dinner with our friends from the ferry at 1 of the local eateries.
El Nido is well-known for the nearby Bacuit Archipelago. It’s famous for the fantastic karst rocks, snow white beaches, and a breathtaking underwater world.
Even if we know that we may not be the only ones having this idea, we think we should explore it.
And that’s easy. Hundreds of guys sell their boat trips.
The next morning, we’re ready to go. It’s true, there are quite a few boats waiting for people eager to visit the islands. Still, as we’re always optimistic, we suppose almost nobody booked with them today.
The 1st place to visit is 7 Commandos Beach. A place somehow related to WW II. And the place we learn, that optimism is great, but not always appropriate.
It’s true, our boat finds its place to moor and we find a little space to walk on the beach. Nevertheless, it mainly seems to be a great place to take pictures of each other.
The next stop should be a marvelous spot for snorkeling – a natural wonder. Approaching it, the captain informs us that we better skip the place, it’s simply too crowded. More snorkelers than fish.
Whatever, he even knows a better place we may go to after an early lunch break.
On to the Secret Lagoon. Looks like a few guys couldn’t keep their mouths shut. So, we have to share the secret with a few others. Still, it’s well organized. No more than 2 or 3 boats may enter this secret place at a time.
Nearby a nice beach to recover a bit from all these secrets.
Then we’re finally heading to the archipelago’s ultimate snorkeling place. Whatever, time to explore the influence the impact of overtourism and climate change at its best.
Then we’re already at our last visit. The Big Lagoon – a unique expedition deep into the karst rocks (as we’re told). Now with a paddel boat.
Then we’re already on our way back to Corong-Corong Beach, where a beer awaits us impatiently.
Surely, you’d like to know if this trip to the Bacuit Archipelago is worth it. Ok, the landscape is fantastic, the crowds as well. Still, we think it’s over-commercialized to a degree, so we wouldn’t go again. Sorry for that.
Cebu City, 17th December
Enough of the crowds, time to move on.
Today we’re heading for Puerto Princesa in Central Palawan. About 300km, and 5h in a pretty comfortable bus.
The landscape: tropical jungle on the left, tropical jungle on the right. Sometimes a sleepy village or a glimpse of the shoreline.
Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan is mainly the hub for ongoing travel.
A typical place where the main attraction is the shopping mall next to the sleepery.
Then it’s time to leave Palawan for Cebu City, the proud capital of the Visayas.
You can easily reach Cebu by taking a 55-hour boat trip on 1 of the Philippines’ ferries heading to remote areas. Or even easier, by Cebu Pacific Airline’s 1h flight – provided it takes place and it’s not delayed for eternity. Whatever, we opt for the 2nd, riskier option. Well, the airline doesn’t prove its unreliability. So, we arrive just on time in the afternoon.
A long drive with a Grab (the Philippi’s UBER) into town to a sleepery with a nice rooftop pool cum drinking hole.
The next morning, we’re sneaking thru Cebu City’s CBD. Well, it’s just a few roads, still more than enough in the heat and humidity.
A look at the town’s most famous church, the Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño de Cebu built by the Spanish in the 16th century.
A glimpse of the town’s ultimate historic landmark: Magellan’s Cross commemorates the foundation of Christian missionary work by the Spanish to save the lost souls of the indigenous population.
On to the next relic of Spanish colonization, Fort San Pedro. Well, only a few walls remain.
Finally, thru a slightly rough area to reach the Carbon Market. A pretty large and slightly old-school market where they sell everything you ever may need in your life.
Panglao, 18th December
Enough of Cebu City. We’re on our way to Panglao on Bohol Island. Just 2 h on a speedboat to reach the island, followed by a 30′ ride to our sleepery, right on Panglao’s Alona Beach. The beach is said to be the place to stay in Panglao.
All easy, except finding the place we’re staying for the next few days. There are dozens of sleeperies all along the beach, so many that even the beach is difficult to see. Nobody knows the place we’ll stay, not even the driver. Finally. After some intense searching, we finally succeed. Whatever, it’s a bit away from Alona’s big tourist trouble zone – even if just a few meters.
So guys, that’s it for now. Surely you’ve learned a lot about overtourism. So, let’s see how our trip develops over the next weeks. Who knows, but we’ll see soon – in our next post.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin