Out of South America

Our very last post of this trip thru South America. It’s about Argentina’s capital Buenos Aires, then Uruguay: Colonia del Sacramento and Montevideo. To park Prado for the next months. Finally, the flight back to Swizzyland in 1 of these sardine tins they call a plane.

Tandil 2 Montevideo

San Antonio de Areco, 29^th January

We’re on the way from sleepy Tandil to La Plata. Just a few km away from Buenos Aires. Still a world apart. It’s Argentina’s 1^st entirely planned city.

400km on rather bumpy roads crying for a little bit more maintenance.

Landscape: pampa.

Arriving at the outskirts of La Plata we finally realize how big the town is. Still need 20km to reach the center.

Of course, you immediately remark that the city has been planned. By dividing the whole town into different neighborhoods with a mix of rectangular and diagonal roads and a square in its middle you have the feeling to be in a pretty small location when walking around. Not this impression to be lost among endless squares with the always same ugly houses we had in some other big cities.

Still, all feels slightly rundown, rather dirty, and not exactly the place to put up the tent on a sidewalk.

Of course, this impression is probably intensified because most shops are closed on Saturday afternoon.

Of course, we intend to visit the famous house planned by Le Corbusier: Casa Curutchet . It’s regarded as an outstanding example of modernist architecture and the only 1 in South America.

Still, this building is not easy to find. Especially, because nobody seems to ever have heard of it. Finally, we’re there. Unfortunately, it’s very visible that the tours to the interior no longer take place. Everything looks very abandoned and not working for quite a few years. Who knows, maybe another victim of the pandemic.

Ok, let’s have a look at some other parts of the city. This mix of slightly decaying old buildings and new 1s crying for immediate maintenance.

The next intended visit: The detention center of Argentina’s infamous Dirección de Inteligencia de la Policia de la Provincia de Buenos Aires. Today converted into a place of remembrance for the 1000s of victims during the rule of the generals during the 2^nd half of last century. Unfortunately, also closed, no indication when it may be open to the public.

Finally, a pretty cool place in Bazar Mercado to sip a beer – or 2.

Next morning. We’re on the way to San Antonio de Areco. A small town northwest of Buenos Aires. Famous for the gauchos sneaking around in the evening.

Some 200km on a highway bypassing Buenos Aires. Landscape: as usual.

Arriving there, we have to admit we’re a little astonished at how quiet this town is. Just small houses, nobody sneaking around, no shops, just no life.

Maybe it’s just like that on a Sunday in a small gaucho town.

Fortunately, in the evening a few of the gauchos wake up. Ready for a couple of beers in 1 of the rustic watering holes around Plaza Ruiz de Arellano.

Buenos Aires, 2^nd February

It’s just 130km to reach the center of Argentina’s proud capital Buenos Aires. Mostly on a good highway. No traffic jams, no crazy drivers, just easygoing.

Quickly we find a sleepery in Microcentro. Right in the center of town. And even a hotel for Prado after some search.

As we have to pay our sleepery in advance, there is even no money left for a sandwich for lunch. Thus, to Carretera Florida with its 100s of money changers. With the help of a shop owner, we can identify a reliable guy buying $ at a rate near the 1 we get with Western Union.

Then finally, we’re ready to sneak thru Buenos Aires’ urban jungle. This mix of well-maintained posh historic buildings and modern constructions visibly not been maintained since their inauguration.

Finally, to Plaza de Mayo. A look at Casa Rosada. Argentina’s presidency. In front of it the Monumento al General San Martín. There 1000s of stones with the names of Corona victims to protest against a birthday party President Alberto Fernández organized during lockdown.

Next day still a little bit more to discover in Buenos Aires’ center. They have churches so decorated even the Mexicans could learn from them, monuments of well- and lesser-known heroes. Some of them looking so angry you’d avoid them in any circumstances

A visit to the town’s famous cathedral.

On the way to Barrio San Telmo we discover la Plaza Héroes de Malvinas. Considering the deploring condition of the monument we’re not sure how seriously the government tries to find a solution with the UK. Maybe it’s more of a populistic claim to keep certain Argies calm.

San Telmo is often described as a village-like neighborhood in Buenos Aires. True, maybe it is. Still, it’s a little bit boring. They have some nice murals, a very tourist-oriented iron market, and a lot of shops selling old stuff found in a forgotten corner of grandma’s house.

Time for a change. A visit to the town’s poshest Shopping Mall – Las Galerías Pacífico. Here you wouldn’t believe that the Argies suffer forever under their never-ending economic crisis.

On to Puerto Maduro Waterfront. Some 25 years ago the town’s rathole, now converted into 1 of the poshest living areas. Unfortunately, again quickly showing its signs of age.

Another day, more of Buenos Aires. Well, initially we intended to visit the interior of the national theater and honor as well the parliament. Of course, we forgot how many other guys have exactly the same idea. The parliament we could only visit in about 8 weeks’ time. So, what to do? Just have a look from the outside.

Anyway, a parliament from the outside is also interesting. There are always citizens trying to show politicians the potential to improve their work.

Then on to a very different part of town: to Barrio Palermo. Mainly a residential area – and famous for Buenos Aires’ murals and graffities. As they are pretty difficult to find we join a free walking tour with a fixed price.

Last day in Buenos Aires. Last little adventure: Barrio Recoleta. A visit to the famous Floralis Genérica.

Then on to the world’s most famous cemetery: La Recoleta. Including the mausoleum of Eva Duarte de Péron. The spouse of infamous General Péron – still honored by millions of Argies for her social engagement and her role as a pioneer for the emancipation of Argie women.

Then it’s time for a couple of IPAs in our all-preferred street bar – and later for a huge steak. Vuelta-y-vuelta not a second more – please don’t roast it to death, dear Argie cooks.

Colonia del Sacramento, 3^rd February

True, our last morning in Argentina. At least for the time being.

A very short drive to the ferry pier. About 1 1/2h to reach Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. The ferry – looks from the outside like 1 of these ugly warships. Inside just pretty rundown.

Arriving in Colonia we have to wait quite some time until customs has finished with all the Argentinian passengers coming for a holiday. Then we get our 1-year TIP within 5′.

Colonia del Sacramento. A small town on the shores of Río de la Plata. It’s old town a UNESCO World Heritage.

We have to admit we don’t come primarily to visit it. We have to get everything ready so that we can leave Prado for hibernation tomorrow. Thus, packing everything for our flight back and getting everything ready with the car.

Then finally, we’re ready to sneak thru the cobblestone alleys of Colonia’s old town. Yeah, it’s a matter of less than an hour. It’s really tiny.

Montevideo, 5^th February

Next morning we’re on our way to Montevideo. Some 200km to the east. A drive thru hilly agricultural land. Not excessively interesting.

Quickly we find a sleepery in the center of town.

Then on. Another 80km to the east. To Prado’s hibernating place.

Looks like a good place in a well-covered shelter where Prado can cool down a little bit after nearly 26 000 km from the South of Colombia to Ushuaia and back to Montevideo. And all without any problem – despite its age and a mileage of nearly 400 000km.

Next day – a Sunday. True, you should never visit a town on a Sunday. Everything is closed, all looks a little bit dead. And in Montevideo we have the impression it even looks grimmer and more rundown than probably on other days. You just see the closed shop windows with all its graffiti. Still, we’re flying back tomorrow.

A look at Plaza Independencia. With the Palacio Salva and Uruguay’s presidency, the Torre Ejecutiva.

Then thru Montevideo’s old town.

On to Mercado del Puerto. Looks like Montevideo’s tourist hotspot.

Finally, a walk along Montevideo’s famous Rambla. The town’s famous beachfront. A huge highway with little traffic, some small but intensively used sandy beaches, and the brownish water of Río de la Plata. Everywhere Uries in their beach chairs sipping mate. Everybody seems quite happy to be here. Well, at least to us, a beach paradise looks pretty different.

Luzern, 7^th February

The day we are flying back. At the airport a long queue. Not because nobody checked in online. No, it’s only the Uries proof that everything takes a little bit longer in their country. Who cares, finally we get to the gate. Just on time for departure.

The flight – as usual. An 11h nightmare to Madrid, then another 2 1/2h to Zurich. Perched like the sardines in their can. But still, we get Iberia’s 85 Cents – gourmet-menu and a small bottle of wine. What else do you expect?

Hey guys, that’s it for this post. We’re back in Swizzyland. Thus, nothing else to write about. And for you no reason to remain jealous. At least, until we’re back on the road – on the continuation of our trip beyond Ushuaia.

Just remains to thank all our esteemed readers that you had a look at all our boring posts and couldn’t sleep because of your incredible jealousy.

Cheeeers

Monika’n’Martin