And that’s it for the day. It starts to rain constantly – time for some beers.
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Off to New Adventures - New Zealand's south
A short visit to French Polynesia’s Tahiti, then on to New Zealand’s South Island. A completely different world.
Papeete 2 Christchurch
Papeete, 20th February
Tahiti, the last island we visit in French Polynesia. We’re in Papeete, enjoying smart urban life after all these small islands – well, at least urban life by Polynesian standards. We have a beer, watch the many cruise ships moor at the pier, and are happy all cruise shippies remain on board. What else could you expect?
We have 2 days left until we’re heading to new adventures.
So, the next morning we take a bus to the airport to rent a car.
Then we follow the island’s ring road on the western side. A stop at a public beach a little outside Papeete, definitely not too impressive.
On to the Marae Arahurahu. A very quiet place with some tikis. Only when leaving do we learn that yesterday there were busloads of cruise shippies on their ultimate adventurous island tour visiting the site. Looks like we’re extremely lucky today.
On to Tahiti’s peninsula. The weather starts to get worse. It even starts to rain. Nevertheless, we’re heading on to the famous Taravao lookout.
Arriving there, Tahiti is hardly visible, it’s to too hazy. And it starts pouring down. What the hell.
Then we’re already on our way back to Papeete. Now along the east coast. Again it starts pouring down – an experience we’ve never had in the South Pacific before.
The eastern part of the island is pretty different from the western side: black sand, rough sea with numerous surfers, and steep, high mountains with deeply carved valleys.
Probably it would be nice to visit the interior – just driving these 4×4 tracks with our small car seems to be a bit too challenging..
Finally, a last stop at Venus Point, another public beach near Papeete. A lot of people, but also not to be compared with the beaches on the other islands.
The last day in Tahiti. Yesterday we found on streetview that the road in the Papenoo Valley seems to be at least partly paved.
So, we want to give it a try. Finally, we enter the valley just for a few km, then the road gets so bad that we have to turn around. Thank you, Google.
As an alternative, we head to the Faarumai Falls.
Then back to our sleepery. In the afternoon we go to the Hinano shop. It’s true, normally we never buy souvenirs. But we definitely need some of their stylish clothing.
Then it’s already time for the very last beer in our watering hole. Defintely a sad moment.
And time to give you our impression of Tahiti. Well, we think you can forget it if you don’t plan to go to the interior. That looks pretty nice. But along the ring road there’s little to see and no nice beaches – at least compared to the other islands. That’s it.
It seems that French Polynesia is organizing something special to bid for us farewell. How nice – well, it’s Chinese New Year. Probably it’s just what happens every year on that occasion – and it’s not specially for our farewell. Who knows?
Now a last question about French Polynesia: Is it worth going there, or is it just a very expensive hype?
Well, here’s our clear answer: it’s definitely worth it. Especially the trip to the Marquesas, but also our journey with the ferry to the Society Islands. Except Bora Bora and, to a certain degree, Tahiti, they’re fantastic.
Of course French Polynesia is more expensive than Laos or Bolivia. Still, if you avoid these sleeperies with their overwater bungalows and head for privately owned apartments or rooms, munch on something in the numerous roulottes where the locals go, it’s not more than what you would pay in Europe. And you experience the country, not just US tourists on their ultimate 10-days-trip as you do in these US chain-sleeperies with imported dog hair.
So, go for it on your next trip.
Christchurch, 23rd February
Our last morning in Tahiti. Quite early we’re on our way to the airport, return the car, and soon after we’re on board the plane heading to Auckland.
It’s just 5h in the plane, still they serve their special chicken-class gourmet brunch to save us from starving. How great we’re being spoiled.
In Auckland we stay in 1 of these airport sleeperies that the next day you don’t remember at all.
At least, nearby is a watering hole cum eatery. That keeps us from munching on something disgusting from our accommodation’s kitchen.
The next day, another flight. To Christchurch. Now with no-frills Jetstar. Despite that, they’re on time and arrive without any issues.
At the airport we pick up our car. A small, bright red Suzuki. Everything is fine, except its body is scratched everywhere and starts rusting. What the hell, we need to take a lot of vids and pics with a timestamp.
Whatever, we call our beautiful car Rusty.
Just for your next vacation: you can rent the perfect car with companies like Hertz or Avis. No problem, you just pay 5 to 6 x the price of a vehicle with a company like Ezu. But with the latter, you’ll have an older car, showing clearly its age and probably crying for a minimum of maintenance.
Of course, it’s your choice.
In the evening to a pretty animated Irish Pub in town. What a difference to French Polynesia.
Christchurch 2 Akaroa
Arthur’s Pass, 25th February
The next morning, we’re on our way to Arthur’s Pass, about 150km to the west.
On the way we stop for a short hike in the Castle Hill Conservation Area. A landscape full of limestone rock formations.
Then, on to our sleepery. Shortly later we pass the boundary of Arthur’s Pass National Park. A place full of tourists taking selfies, posing exactly as they have learned it on YouTube. Surely their followers on Insta will be enormously jealous.
Finally, we arrive at our motel. We’re more than happy that it has a functional kitchen in each room – there are next to no options for dinner or even a beer.
Now we are in New Zealand’s famous Southern Alps. So, we have to go for a hike. We search quite a while for the best 1 to do. After all we simply ask ChatGPT. And we got it – shame on us.
So, it’s the Bealey Spur Hike, some 15km to sneak, nearly 1000m up, 6h on a well-marked trail. So, why not do that.
The 1st part is thru a wonderful, dense forest, then a mix of bush and grassland. We’re quite astonished at how few other hikers we meet, considering that the village’s sleeperies are currently fully booked.
After 1h the 1st viewpoint – spectacular.
Another 1 1/2h to reach the Bealey Spur Hut. A lousy, rather rundown shelter. Surely, everyone is more than happy if they can avoid sleeping here.
From here, it’s just 1/2 h to the top. But 300m up.
At the top – what a view. 360 degrees of the national park.
Then the whole way back to the car park. And that’s it for today.
The next morning the weather looks a bit different. It’s pouring and foggy. So, we have some time to recover from yesterday’s hike.
A little later it clears up a bit. We’re on the way to the top of Arthur’s Pass.
Then we try to hike the Bealey Valley Track. It’s not really a hike, it’s more of a walk thru a beautiful forest.
Akaroa, 28th February
Another morning, the same awful weather. But wonders happen, just after 1/2h it starts clearing up.
True, we have to move on today. Today our motel is fully booked – without us.
We quickly pack, and off we are to the head of the Otira Valley Trail. It’s just a short hike, but it’s said to be wonderful. Let’s see.
Then, on to Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula. Some 200km to drive, bypassing Christchurch.
On the way, in Fairfield, some of New Zealand’s famous pies …
… and by early afternoon we arrive in Akaroa. A small village with many well-restored buildings. A great change after all these rather non-descript villages we’ve passed thru so far.
Of course, all oriented towards tourism. It seems to be an escape for local Kiwis living in the region.
We’re lucky, the next morning there’s beautiful weather. Our chance to drive the so-called Scenic-Tourist-Road high up in the hills behind Akaroa.
A short, but steep hike up to Stoney Bay Peak, with an excellent view. Then back on the road. On the way, some more short walks to different viewpoints. Some really seem to be pretty dangerous.
Dear readers,
Now you’ve been reading a lot. You’ve learned many things you never wanted to know and you’ve seen many pictures you’re not interested in at all. Whatever, hopefully this post prepares you well for your next vacation, either to French Polynesia or New Zealand.
In the meantime, we wish you a beautiful late summer for those living in the southern hemisphere, and a marvelous end of winter for the guys in the north.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin