Finland – very different from Norway. Now it’s mainly about hikes thru endless forests, making friends with the mozzies, and checking out a few towns along the way.
Karigasniemi 2 Parainen
Inari, 29th July
Our 1st night in Finland is history. We’re ready for new adventures – even if it’s on the way back home. We’re heading to Inari, just about 100km to drive. There, at the campsite in town – well, it’s more like a parking lot with a sanitation building.
Because the weather forecast for this afternoon looks so bad, we visit the SIIDA Sámi Museum. It’s pretty well-known, but honestly, we feel like there’s a lot of room for improvement in the exhibition. Whatever, there are a few tour groups with guides, maybe they enjoy it more since someone tells them every detail for hours.
Then we take a walk thru Inari – pretty interesting to see who’s all sneaking around town.
The next morning, the weather looks pretty ok. So, we head out for the hike to the Pilpajärven Wilderness Church. About 4h thru Arctic forest and past small lakes, accompanied by quite a few nasty mozzies. Of course, you can’t really compare it to a hike in Norway – in Finland, it’s more about flat trails, a few hills to climb, and an occasional lake.
Pyhäjoki, 1st July
Another day, another hike thru another forest. This time we’re in the Lemmenjoen Kansallispuisto National Park – Finland’s biggest 1. It’s just a short drive to the trailhead, then we follow the Stuorrvárrin Trail. A 3-4h hike – once again thru Arctic, mozzie-infested forest. And again, we’re surprised by how wide most Finnish trails are – maybe they’re still expecting a big tourist boom to finally show up. Who knows how they plan to attract foreign tourists to come in large numbers – up to now, we haven’t seen many.
Later, we drive further to the south, to Ivalo. There’s a campsite with a pretty decent eatery attached – a real rarity in this part of the world. Time to munch on some reindeer.
The next morning, we hit the road heading further south. We’ve initially planned to hike in a national park near Kusamoo. However, upon arrival, it’s foggy and drizzling. Definitely no pleasure for hiking on a hill, known for its breathtaking views.
Eventually, we keep driving south. A short while later, we’re suddenly out of the bad weather – in the bright sunshine. So, we decide to visit this afternoon the Pyhä – Luosto National Park.
By early afternoon, we find a campsite near the park. It looks like a super remote place, mainly populated by mozzies.
Then we’re ready for the next hike, heading thru Isokuru George – supposedly the most spectacular canyon in Finland. Gotta check that out. About 10 km on a hiking trail that’s definitely overdeveloped. At times, it feels like they upgraded it so even our sexy senior citizens with walkers could cruise through. But, no complaints if that’s what it takes to see this stunning gorge.
After 4h, we head back to our mozzie infested campsite. On the right, an example of these lovely companions – shortly after it ended its miserable life as a vampire.
Now, how was Finland’s most stunning canyon? Honestly … we expected a bit more. It’s more like a narrow, steep valley than an actual gorge. And the last 5km of the trail just follow a dusty forestry road with some traffic – not exactly what we’re out here for.
Still, later in the evening, while slurping a glass of wine, we discover another hike we definitely don’t want to miss in Finland: the Little Bear´s Trail in the Oulanka National Park.
Kuopio, 4th July
So, the next morning we’re heading to the village of Juuma, right next to the national park. It’s about 150 km, 2 hours to drive. The landscape? Forest to the left, forest to the right, sometimes a lake, and occasionally a few reindeers throwing themselves into traffic. That’s pretty much it.
On the way, we cross the Arctic Circle – so, we’re clearly on the right track for some warm and sunny weather.
The next morning, it’s cloudy and drizzling lightly, but the forecast promises no major rain today. And we’re more than ready to believe that.
We’re hitting the Little Bear’s Trail. No clue where the name comes from – apparently, no one’s ever seen a bear here. Or maybe a few ones did and didn’t make it back to tell the story? Who knows, let’s find it out.
The hike is about 11 km and takes around 4 hours. As usual, thru forests and past lakes. But this time also along a roaring river and across a few suspension bridges.
Of course, as usual when hiking in Finland, billions of mozzies are desperate to become our best friends. As you can see some people are not too amused about these constant attempts. But they found their solution – a kind of full-body preservative separating them from any nasty attention. Genius, isn’t it?
Later in the afternoon, we drive on to Ristijärvi and find a pretty nice campsite by a lake. Its biggest perk? No mozzies. Seriously – not a single one.
Then it’s time to watch the raindrops in the evening…
Since we arrived in Finland, we’ve gone hiking pretty much every day. Nothing too long or tough – this is flat Finland, not mountainous Norway.
But by now, we feel like we’ve seen enough forests, lakes, and made friends with billions of mozzies. It’s time for a change.
We’re getting closer to southern Finland, so we’re more than ready to check out a bit of urban life.
We’re heading to Kuopio – the 1st big town up north. Some 200 km and 3h to drive. The landscape – same as always. It’s an extremely rainy day, at least we don’t have to worry about sunburn.
When we arrive there, we head straight to the town’s campsite. Time for some poetry – and, counting more raindrops.
Rauma, 6th July
The next morning, bright sunshine – can you believe it? Not a single cloud in the sky. We’re off to explore Kuopio and soak up some urban vibes in Finland.
A pretty small CBD with a mix of some historic buildings and quite a few ugly modern 1s.
On to the central market where you can find all kinds of stuff you probably won’t see in any supermarket. Just make sure to bring enough cash with you.
Later in the morning, we drive on to Tampere in the south of Finland. It’s about 300km and takes us over 4h on roads infested with speed traps – what a pain in the ass.
So, we really need to concentrate on all these speed limits the Finys install every few 100m.
When we arrive in Tampere, there’s no chance of finding a spot at the town’s campsite. The sites flooded, too muddy to get in, or already taken.
Despite all our attempts to stabilize the ground with some boards, we finally have to give up and drive back 40km north to find a small campsite by a lake. Saved for the night.
So, the next morning we drive back to Tampere. As usual in these Scandinavian towns, there’s barely any traffic and plenty of empty parking spots.
Time to check out what Tampere has to offer. The city’s known for its old industrial buildings – especially the former Finlayson Linen Factory buildings – now transformed into bars, eateries, and shopping centers.
We take a look at their rather unusual Art Nouveau dome – pretty unique and it definitely stands out.
Later we cross the river via the bridge of eternal, but rusty love to reach the former Finlayson complex.
Yeah, pretty fascinating what the Finys have done with their old, decaying industrial areas – turning them into cool and lively spots for hanging out.
Maybe a model for Uncle Donny before he turns the US into a sneaker sewing nation. Well, he probably won’t take any advice.
Anyway, we hit the road again – this time to Rauma, a little town on the Baltic Sea with a UNESCO-listed old center. We roll in late afternoon – too late to look around, but perfect timing for a beer.
The next morning: a visit to Rauma’s city center, with its tidy, mostly well-renovated wooden houses lining the touristy alleys, and often decaying houses in the side roads. Of course, in this town, you’re certainly not the only tourist. But since it’s drizzling, there aren’t too many sneaking around. However, nearly every house along the main streets is either a souvenir shop, eatery, or bar. All oriented towards the crowds flocking in during high season. Thus, despite the impression of a well-preserved heritage, the town also gives off a bit of a commercial hub, keen on getting its share of the tourist’s money.
A quick glimpse of Rauma’s famous church.
Finally, what a surprise – we actually get to see the town in the fog.
After the visit, we drive on to nearby Turku. When we arrive, we head straight to the campsite a bit outside of town. A spot highly recommended by P4N – but when we arrive there, we find a pretty ugly, rundown campground with filthy toilets. What a shame we already paid for the night.
Whatever – we head into town to see what it has to offer. Well, Turku isn’t exactly a tourist hotspot, so we just sneak thru the town’s CBD to get a feel for an ordinary Finish town. There are still a few nice buildings, an atmospheric but pricey market, and a bakery selling the kind of sweets only Finies can enjoy.
And finally, the happy yogi by the river – after enjoying his last joint of the day.
Parainen, 9th July
The next morning, there’s definitely no reason to stick around any longer on this awful campsite. We’re more than ready to leave. Just a little advice for your next van trip to Turku: if you’re thinking about staying at Ruissalo Camping, just don’t. Seriously – even don’t think about that. There are way better spots not too far from town.
We drive a few km to Naantali. A small town well-known for its charming center and world-famous for Moomin – you know that little guy each’n’every kid needs for a happy childhood. To ensure that, they’ve created an entire Moomin World in Naantali, drawing in thousands of parents trying to keep their unruly kids happy.
Later we’re heading to 1 of the nicer campsites, about 25km from Turku on the road to the island of Storlandet. The manager is a bit strange – he only lets guests in after 3pm. You know, that terrible trend creeping in from incredibly business-oriented US sleeperies and now spreading all over Europe. But seriously, not on campsites. So dear manager, if you’re reading this post, take it seriously – and maybe rethink that rule, yeah? If not, people might rethink heading for the filthy campsite in Turku.
In the afternoon, we plan to visit Storlandet. It’s not far, less than 50km. Just 2 ferries to take, each about 10′ to cross to the next island. So, looks like no problem. Well, driving to the 1st ferry crossing, we’re not so sure anymore. There’s crazy traffic. Of course, it’s peak season. Looks like every Finy has to take his holiday in July – and half of them are on the way to Storlandet this afternoon. Long story short, we couldn’t even see the 1st ferry dock. Too many cars queued up. No idea how long we’d have to wait, but it looks like hours. So, we drive back to the campsite, ready for a lazy afternoon in the amazing weather we’ve got today.
Dear Reader,
You know how it is. At some point, you’ve just had enough. Even enough of Finland. And definitely more than enough of this post calling every short stroll an adventure. So let’s leave it at that. Hang in there – soon you’ll get more of this stuff … or something totally different. Who knows? Just stay jealous.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin