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Brazil's Mining Villages - A Journey thru Minas Gerais
Out of Rio de Janeiro, on the way to Minas Gerais. Brazil’s mining area. A journey thru fascinating towns that accumulated immense wealth during Brazil’s gold rush. Then on to the proud capital of Minas Gerais, Belo Horizonte.
Rio 2 Belo Horizonte
Rio de Janeiro, 27th February
We’re still in Rio.
As you surely know, nobody has ever seen Rio without going up the Corcovado.
And that’s today’s plan. An Uber to Copacabana. Arriving there we quickly get to the ticket counter for the van ride up. We have to queue up for a while. Fortunately, there’s a webcam on Corcovado. So, we can check – just minutes before we buy our tickets – that the famous Christ statue is once again shrouded in the deepest clouds.
No problem, we’ll try it later. In the meantime, a stroll along the world-famous Copacabana Beach.
After a while, we’ve seen the beach. No swimming gear with us, so no dip at the world’s most famous beach. Who cares.
A short ride with the metro to the city center.
A visit of the Ingreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora de Candelária. As baroque as baroque can be.
Done with all this baroque stuff. Time for something cool – the Museu do Amanhã sounds perfect.
A scientific museum fueled by genius ideas of what the future might hold. Well, no entry fee today. The upside is a free visit, but the downside is you’ll end up waiting for hours at each exhibition. Whatever, we limit our visit to a quick look inside because we still have to visit Corcovado.
After leaving the museum, we spot Corcovado and its massive statue in the distance, basking in the brightest sunshine. Seems like it’s time to give it a second chance.
Before that, we quickly head to the nearby mural called Etnias. The biggest 1 ever made covering a superficie of 3000sqm. 8 years after its creation by Eduardo Kobra, it may have lost some of its color, but it’s still a fascinating masterpiece.
After that, we rush back to Copacabana. To catch the van heading up to Corcovado. At the ticket counter, they show us the pic of the webcam: thickest clouds covering the statue, absolutely nothing to see.
What the hell, no luck for the ultimate Insta shot on this hill. In the end, we decide we’ve seen Rio – or at least part of it – even without making it on the top of Corcovado.
Teresópolis, 28th February
The next morning, we’re all set to hit the road. To Teresópolis. About 100km to drive. A small town nestled high up in the mountains and it’s the gateway to Parque Nacional da Serra Dos Orgáos.
Quickly we cross Rio de Janeiro. Luckily, they’ve got a solid highway system.
Then, once more up the escarpment to reach Teresópolis. Along the way, our 1st glimpse of the Dedo de Deus needles.
In Teresópolis, we head for the national park. To tackle Trilha Cartão Postal. It might not be the most exciting or challenging trail, but it’s likely the only 1 doable this time of the year. About 1h uphill to reach the park’s ultimate viewpoint. Even though it’s a short hike, it’s a hot and humid one.
Upon arrival, just clouds, and no view at all. With us a frustrated Brazi couple. At least on a faded signboard, we can see what the view would be like without clouds. Nevertheless, we wait for the wonder to happen.
For about 15′. To admire at least part of the panorama.
The evening, we spend at an all-inclusive Churrascaria. Definitely every vegan’s nightmare.
Tiradentes, 1st March
The state of Minas Gerais is famous for its colonial mining towns. Settlements that acquired immense wealth during the gold rush in the 18th century. But also famous for slavery in their mines. Among them Tiradentes.
Already 80 years ago it was declared a national heritage of Brazi baroque. Nowadays also an UNESCO World Heritage.
We have to experience this place. A 5h drive, About 300 km north of Teresópolis.
We’re getting there in the evening, right on time for a cold beer.
The next morning, a stroll thru the village. Don’t expect to spend hours exploring the alleys of the colonial part of Tiradentes. It’s just too small for that.
Around noon, we’re at Tiradente’s railway station. Today, Prado gets to enjoy its well-deserved rest. We’re traveling by rail. The renowned steam engines, known as Marias Fumaças or the Smoking Maries, have been pulling the wagons thru the landscapes of Minas Gerais’ landscape for more than 140 years. Initially, all the way to Belo Horizonte and the coast.
Nowadays, 1 of the remaining routes is the 13km trail to São João del Rei. It takes nearly 1h on the antique rails.
Arriving there, it’s time to explore the historic center. Looks pretty charming, in contrast to the rest of the town.
Later, we need to return to Tiradentes. The only option is the bus, which runs quite frequently. However, the bus station is pretty far from the town center. And don’t expect any Uber or taxis in São João del Rei. You’ll definitely have to sneak a few km to reach the station. Even if it’s scorching hot.
Ouro Preto, 3rd March
On to the next colonial mining town: Ouro Preto. Probably the most famous 1 and another UNESCO World Heritage.
About 160km to drive.
Arriving there, it becomes pretty clear why they call it an adventure park for automobilists. Some of the steepest and narrowest alleys we’ve ever experienced. And all covered with slippery cobblestones.
Even though there aren’t many tourists visiting Ouro Preto this time of the year, there are a few places they concentrate, such as the Basilica Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar.
Later time for a beer and something to munch on. Best enjoyed at Jair Boémio. The bar with a view on the historic center.
The next day, we head to Mariana. A village just next to Ouro Preto with a few historic buildings in the center.
Then on to the formerly biggest gold mine in the world, having extracted more than 35 t of gold. Mina Passagem de Mariana. However, nowadays, it’s no longer working. A travel agent took over to organize rather overpriced tours. Whatever, we expect a lot to see.
Arriving there, we’re nearly the only 1s. Thus, after having paid the hefty entrance fee (many people call it a rip-off), we get a private tour in the underground. Of course, all in Portuguese.
You drive down in an original open trolley to reach the uppermost level at a depth of 120m below ground. There, you walk thru some shafts. Unfortunately, you can’t descend any further as everything is flooded.
Yeah, that’s it. The question remains, is it worth the effort? Probably not really.
Belo Horizonte, 5th March
Enough of villages just living off their past and today’s tourism. We need some urban life.
So, we head for Minas Gerais’ proud capital, Belo Horizonte. To the area with a great number of watering holes’n’eateries: Savassi.
It’s just a short drive, about 100km. On the way, unfortunately, there’s a bad accident blocking the highway for hours. So, we need a bypass. The road looks quite promising in the beginning but quickly degrades to a bumpy track. And of course, we’re not the only 1s having this great idea. So, we’re pleased to follow all the other cars in the dust. In front of us, a really small 1 having quite a challenge to get thru.
Finally, it takes us a few hours to arrive.
Belo Horizonte, quite a big town. Famous for its high-rise buildings, its high living standard, and for not having any real sights. Except for the buildings of famous architect Oscar Niemeyer. So, we have to concentrate on those.
For a change to these architectural masterpieces, we visit the next day some designs made by nature: Gruta Rey do Mato, some 70km north of Belo Horizonte. Said to be 1 of the best caves in Minas Gerais.
Once more, we’re the only visitors to admire this beauty. And again, we get a private tour in Portuguese.
Niemeyer’s most famous work in Belo Horizonte is the huge administrative center he designed some 15 years ago.
On our way back to town, just by chance, we discover these buildings on the roadside. So, we have to visit them.
Arriving there, we just see blocked roads and signboards of the military police. Finally, we discover a parking lot for guests. Great, a place for Prado. Even if the guy has to convert Prado’s license plate into a Brazi 1 to register it on the computer.
We sneak to the nearest building. Monika just slides in. The receptionist is into it, seeing a foreigner asking permission to check out the complex. Especially a foreigner who claims to be the world’s biggest fan of Oscar Niemeyer. She even wants to arrange for somebody to show us around inside all the buildings. In the end, given our limited Portuguese, we stick to exploring the exterior. Without a watchdog.
Finally, we drive to Pampulha in the north of the city. Along the shores of the synonymous lake, Niemeyer designed several quite famous buildings at the beginning of his career. For the time being, we limit ourselves to the Ingreja de São Francisco de Assis. Constructed more than 80 years ago.
Then the beer calls …
… at our all-preferred watering hole in Belo Horizonte: Redentor Bar.
So, we think that the well-deserved end of this post. Surely you needed a lot of patience and endurance to come to this point. Congrats.
Still, don’t be desperate. Soon you’ll get the next post with a lot more boring stuff. In the meantime, continue dreaming about traveling around the world and remain jealous until it’s your turn.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin
