Out of the Banana Pancake Trail

 

The way from Savannakhet to Luang Prabang where we park Prado until next May. Then a few days in Bangkok and back to Switzyland for hibernation. Huge opportunities to study banana-pancake-backpacker life in Vang Vieng and Bangkok’s Khao San and our ultimate conversion into a kind of master cooks in Luang Prabang.

Thakhek, 4^th January

Savannakhet: 2^nd largest city in the proud People’s Republic of Lao. Must be a really big urban center. Probably with skyscrapers, a brand new underground and a whole district for the most excentric’n’exorbitant nightlife you may ever experience. We approach this urban center. Well, of course the outskirts look slightly rural. Approaching the CBD no real change – maybe they don’t allow houses with more than 2 stories. Whatever. Finally we arrive in the sleepiest town of Laos. But with a nice town center. Many ancient houses the old Frenchies built mixed with old Vietnamese building.

We even discover a pretty interesting factory: a Buddha manufacturer. We can follow the whole process from the initial pouring of concrete into the steel mould to the final gold coat sprayed just before selling another Buddha.

Definitely true, nightlife is slightly below our expectations. It’s more about sitting in a cool al fresco restaurant around the central square, nipping some bottles of beer and munching some gleen, led ol whatevel cully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time to move on. To Thakhek. Another town on the Mekong River with an old day flair just a few hours northwards. We know it’s a small town, so our expectations are slightly lower than for Savannakhet. A place to admire all kind of Frenchie, Vietnamese and Laotian influenced buildings – sometimes even an incredible mix of old houses crying for repair and some fancy super kitsch modern architecture.

 

 

Late afternoon an opportunity not to be missed: the sunset over Mekong River with 1 of Thailand’s Wats in the background.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kong Lor, 6^th January

Enough of sweet city life. Now we’re ready for THE LOOP. Never heard of it? No problem, nor did we. The loop is simply a road some 430km long starting in Thakhek and ending in Thakhek. In between some karst mountains, some lakes and some caves not to be missed. And the loop is the ultimate opportunity for each backpacker to learn how to drive a Chinese scooter. Considering the popularity of the loop some claim it’s too touristy; therefore no longer worth a visit. So they rather remain in Thakhet eating banana pancake all day long. We consider where there are no tourists – there are no sights.

 

 

 

The 1^st cave: Tham Pha Nong Phafa. Long name, isn’t it. Nobody outside Laos can remember that. For this reason it’s simply called Buddha Cave to attract the odd tourists. Nice landscape, innovative people – initiated all kind of different fees to see a rather unspectacular cave.

The next cave: Tham Pha Inh – no other name, thus no fees. But famous for its underground lake reflecting deep down in the cave. A gorgeous place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then on thru more karst mountains.

Later we climb a plateau and reach Namh Theun Lake. The lake is 1 of the largest reservoirs in Laos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spend the night in Thalong. A small village in the middle of the lake.

 

 

 

 

An opportunity to invest in a couple of beers’n’barbeque and to exchange all kind of roadside tales.

 

Next morning: on towards Kong Lor – the most famous cave on the loop.

 

 

 

We continue our way on the lake – from 1 ridge to the other, sometimes on a bridge, more often on a dam. In the water still the remains of the former jungle.

 

 

Some nice views at the other side of the plateau, …

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… then we cross the Nam Theun River. Interesting fishing boats there. They use American bombs from the 2^nd Indochina War as building material. Nowadays a tourist attraction.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Early afternoon we reach Kong Lor. A small, lousy village with a great cave.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course we have to see this cave. Nevertheless, before arriving there you’re clearly indicated what definitely not to do, especially for girls: don’t look at naked boys!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we have to follow the river to the cave’s entrance. No idea what’s expecting us inside. We have to pluck up courage. We just know we have to take a boat, drive 7km thru the mountain. On the way we’ll conquer some rapids, maybe encounter crocs – who knows. There could be some cavernous snakes, nasty mozzies or even drowned cockroaches.

 

 

 

 

Finally we’re inside. We have to walk in some 100 m. In the background we already see the tiny boat, …

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… the boatman removes water from inside. We have to walk thru the cold water to get into the boat. We identify that the boat is driven by a small Chinese engine. Hopefully it will make the few km. – Anyhow we’re equipped with a bright orange life vest.

 

 

 

 

 

A sharp bang and the engine comes to life. We enter the cave. Even with our torches it’s simply dark. Somehow it reminds us of a flooded tunnel. Could be Anzob Tunnel in Tajikistan before renovation.

 

 

 

 

After a while we approach an illuminated area. We have to get out, use the walking trail. Admire the cave glowing in all different colours. Maybe not everybody’s taste.

Then back to the boat. On in the dark. Out again. We’re at the rapids. We walk, the boatman pushes the boat upwards.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then – what a relief. We’ve made the 7km. Daylight approaches. Soon we’re driving on an ordinary small river, forget all the dangers in the dark, forget all the animals we could have met there – even if we didn’t.

Then after a short break the same way back. By now an easy task. We already did it. Now we’re experts in crossing whole mountains on wild underground rivers. Half an hour later we’re back on the other side.

 

 

After this adventure we definitely have to recover. We found some guys with the same necessity.

No idea why the pic of our social exchange got slightly unclear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vang Vieng, 10^th January

The next morning no hangover. The proof the guys around us invested in all those bottles.

We drive the 350km, 6h to Vientiane. The 1^st 100km quite nice landscape thru karst formations.

Then along Mekong River. Just flat land.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The more we approach Laos’ proud capital the more traffic on the road.

 

 

 

Vientiane: not much changed since our last visit some weeks ago. Still a village trying to show its metropolitan character by constructing a few houses with more than 3 storeys.

 

So the next morning we’re on to Vang Vieng. Just 150 km; rather boring landscape, a lot of traffic. On the way a short visit to the Phavangxang Caves to admire the Khmer Buddhas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Approaching Vang Vieng the 1^st karst mountains.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In Vang Vieng unfortunately we cannot observe any improvement. It looks as ugly as before.

Nevertheless, still a beloved paradise for most backpackies as at every corner banana pancakes are sold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In search for some different culinary highlights neither we can state a big improvement.

Nearly 2 months ago we discovered the ultimate innovation in pizza production: take some dough, add any toppings you find somewhere in a corner of your restaurant, put it into the microwave – and finally sell it at a high cost as Pizza Berlusconi to an odd tourist. Wow, fantastic. By now it seems it’s the only novelty in this season; maybe with the exception of pizza pancake. Furthermore we just see these rundown eateries showing British comedies and some interesting mechanised braais …

… and of course some interesting offers on the menus. Unfortunately we don’t have the courage to try this Frenchy they want to fry and serve with a Snitchzel.

 

 

 

 

Nevertheless, some restaurants have nice views on the river. And despite the terribly bad food there’s the opportunity to think about some strange rumours in this place.

1 is about this penalty system for local restaurant owners and their cooks.

Of course a simple offense is punished by extended waterboarding only. Should it be more serious, understandably nothing can avoid death penalty. Only for the worst cases these tortures are not hard enough – the delinquent has to eat the food he sells to tourists for 2 weeks.

 

 

Who knows. Anyway we’re not in Vang Vieng for culinary highlights but for the karst landscape and the caves. The most famous place: the blue lagoon – a kind of place where girls’n’boys try to impress each other by jumping from a tree into the water. The winners gets …

 

 

 

 

 

We follow a steep climb up the hill to visit the Poukham Cave. A lonely and awesome place.

On the way back to Vang Vieng we discover the balloons high up in the sky – and start to develop the ultimate idea for tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next morning: ballooning is planned for sunset. So some time to further explore the nearby sensations. Another cave: forgot the name. Apparently the place doesn’t receive many tourists. So we’re the only 1s climbing up to the cave.

 

 

 

 

 

At the entrance some kids try to sell their knowledge of the cave for an astronomic prize.

 

 

And then we’re in. Without kids. Nevertheless, we couldn’t go that far. Many deep holes in the ground are sparsely secured. So the danger to suddenly land on a lower floor of the cave.

 

Time for a change. As decided yesterday we have to balloon. Of course there are several reasons for this strange undertaking:

• soon we’ll have to take our flight back home. Discovering the earth with a balloon may be a good preparation;
• nowhere on earth is it as cheap as in Vang Vieng;
• maybe the sunset with the karst mountains in the background is so gorgeous that we can forget for a few minutes how ugly Vang Vieng really is.

So we’re driven to an open field outside the town. There we discover quite a number of Chinese preparing several balloons for the flights. Blowing air into the envelope, …

 

 

 

 

 

 

… then heating it up with a gas burner – a little like our camping cooker, just bigger.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally the balloon turns upright – and we’re ready to start.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And we move up to the sky. Better not thinking too much about our unreliable camping cooker.

 

Of course it’s all about sunset and the karst mountains.

From time to time our Chinese pilot starts the burner to keep altitude. As we’re standing next to the burners each time we risk our hair to be burnt. Who cares.

A last look at the disaster area right below – Vang Vieng’s CBD – and ½ hour later were back on the ground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For us it’s the end of this awesome trip, for the Chinese staff remains the packing of the balloons to be ready for the following tour the next morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luang Prabang, 13^th January

We think we’ve done everything in Vang Vieng we should do. So it’s time to move on to Luang Prabang.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Astonishingly weather is pretty bad. Raining the whole day, the road slippery and in the mountains there’s even thick fog. So it takes us more than 6 h for the 200km.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, late afternoon we arrive in rainy Luang Prabang. Having been here for the 3^rd time we need other options than the must-have-seen-sights. Anyway it’s time to give Prado a wash and drive it to its place for hibernation. Thanx Monica to have arranged this hospitality for Prado.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fortunately there’s the Bamboo Tree Restaurant. In the country 1 of the few exceptions, serving excellent Lao food. So we’re busy getting master cooks in their cooking school. Well, it’s an investment into our future. Hopefully we’ll be certified to run an all famous Lao restaurant somewhere in a super expensive capital and earn the hell a lot of money by selling flyly’n’plehly (fried’n’plain rice) with gleencully.

To start with we have to visit the market. Here we learn to distinguish between delicacies mainly dedicated to northeast Chinese, to Lao-mountain-area and to ozzy – frenchy taste. E.g. never buy dried buffalo skin for an American used to KFC’s oily chicken.

Then Linda our teacher instructs us about the basics: wash hands before cooking, cut fingers are not part of any decent meal, etc.

Considering all these advices we start chopping. Evidently everybody’s very motivated as we prepare what we’ll munch later.

So far the preparations. Now the training to become master cooks. Not an easy task. Some cook with great enthusiasm, while others are slightly distracted by the nice ladies admiring the incredible knowledge and skilfulness of the cook. Whatever – thanx to Linda’s huge knowledge and support every meal develops into a masterpiece.

And then the lunch – my dear we are GREAT COOKS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bangkok, 16^th January

The next day – proud to have reached the level of a certified master cook – we leave Luang Prabang for Bangkok. As usual with Air Asia. So no further comments needed.

This time we decide to reside in Bangkok’s Khao San Road. In the backpackie scene this is the most important and most beloved hub in the world. Arriving there we quickly understand the reason for this importance: there’s a McDonald’s burger eatery every few meters. And who wouldn’t appreciate the carefully selected fine food offered in these greasy spoons after days of flyly and terribly hot’n’spicy gleencully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

According to our observations Khao San Road somehow must be an extraterritorial space. Definitely not Thailand. Could eventually be part of Mallorca’s Ballermann or some British dominated corners on Greek or Canary Islands.

Whatever it is, we even think it might become the future capital of an independent backpacker state – maybe of the Republic of Banana- Pancakistan.

 

 

 

 

 

Well, considering an advertisement  at the roadside maybe the decision has already been taken. But who knows.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course, you’ll never feel lonely in Khao San. There are quite a few other people around you: real backpackies, wannabe backpackies, slashpackies (former backpackies having earned a fortune in the last few years), high wheeled tourists making an adventurous expedition to see backpackies, touts specialised in taking advantage of the greenness of many backpackies, travel agencies canalizing the backpackies’ independent trips into organised tours, …

 

 

 

… restaurants and bars inducing backpackies to fast loo-runs, endless rows of shops selling cloth for backpackies nobody else would ever buy and of course 2 overlanders currently converted into backpackies. So evidently a real paradise where the whole world meets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The offer is manifold, screaming and not always reflecting the very best taste. But it’s loved or at least admired by most guys sneaking around.

It’s a place for great people and even of greater 1’s. Some still in the slightly adapted uniform of their suburban hometown, …

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… while others already have fully adapted to a hill tribe’s dream of urban lifestyle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, the next day we return to Thailand. A stroll thru the old part of Bangkok. Passing the Royal Palace …

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… on our way to Wat Pho. This temple famous for the world’s largest sleeping Buddha receives quite a number of visitors. And consequently, if we believe the warnings, it’s being converted into a dangerous place.

 

 

 

 

 

 A visit to an old market. Admiring all kind of sundried monsters of the sea, …

 

 

 

 

 

 

… then we cross Chao Phraya River to visit Wat Arun.

 

The Wat under full renovation. So not too much to admire.

And we’re back on our way to Khao San. Now on the speedboat. Quite an interesting drive on a crowded boat on an even more crowded river.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Outside Khao San, back in Thailand, there’s more to see: the Monument of Democracy – nowadays rather rarely visited, …

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… later on the way to the Golden Mount we get an idea why sometimes Bangkok is called the Venice of the east. As in Venice in Bangkok some buildings also reflect in the water of the canals.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A steep stair leads up to the Golden Mount – an artificial hill with a Wat on its top.

A quite complicated place: everywhere else you have to take off your shoes before entering a place of worship. Not so on the Golden Mount. No doubt severe penalties await anybody not wearing shoes.

 

 

 

Nevertheless, a nice view from the top …

… and some interesting activities in the Wat.

Then it’s time to leave Thailand and to return to Khao San Exteritorial Area to enjoy the exorbitant nightlife.

Another day, another adventure. Now Chinatown. Avoiding all traffic jams, again with the boat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It seems a few other fellows have the same idea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now we’re in Chinatown. Well, the roads crowded as usual, but still looking a bit like in a small town in real China.

 

 

 

 

If in Chinatown, of course a visit to their fascinating markets, …

 

… with a very special regard to their delicacies.

To recover from all this excitement a visit to our very last Wat – promised, at least for the time being. Wat Tri Mit with the world’s most valuable Buddha made of 5t of pure gold.

Then it definitely gets too hot’n’humid. Back to beautiful Khao San; getting ready for the last evening in Bangkok.

 

Laufenburg, 17^th January

On 16^th January we squeeze into the tube of a modern plane. Get our ½ sqm of space with an uncomfortable chair and a non-working amusement center on a small TV screen right in front of us. From time to time some terrible food and 12h later we land in Zurich, Swizzyland.

Outside it’s not that dark. The whole landscape is white – snow. -5 degrees.

In Laufenburg in our apartment slightly more comfortable 7 degrees. What to do? Heating the rooms and warming up ourselves with rotten grapes.

And now big work awaits us until we’ll continue somewhen in May: we have to organise the onward trip, especially thru China.

Still we don’t know where to start our next China transit: at the current border with Laos or better further south considering the signboard we found in Vang Vieng.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And that’s it for today. More after hibernation.

Cheeeers

Monika’n’Martin