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Back to Africa, Part 1: Santo Antão, Cabo Verde
Escaping Swizzylands winter to sunny Cabo Verde. To the epic island of Santo Antão. To experience a world we could barely imagine before. Otherworldly landscapes and locals living in a unique blend of Africa, Brazil, and Portugal.
Santo Antão, Cabo Verde
Luzern, 13th January
At the end of October, we found ourselves back in cold ‘n’ foggy Swizzyland—perfect timing, theoretically, for an extended hibernation.
Still, the van needs an intensive spa to be ready for new adventures … whenever winter decides to come to an end.
Of course, after a few days of relaxed hibernation, we have to get out and see what’s going on in the surroundings. This time, we won´t post anything about politics – it´s just too sad what´s happening.
So, we find ourselves sneaking up a nearby hill to see if there’s a world beyond the fog.
Just an hour later, we find ourselves in a wonderland between fog and sunshine.
Of course, as it should be, we also get some snow — enough to create real chaos on the roads. But just a few days later, it quickly disappears … and the rain ‘n’ fog make their comeback.
Still, there’s no time for hibernation. We’re recovering from the shock that so many Johnny Six-Packs elected Uncle Donny as their president. Let’s hope this old man can at least deliver on making beer a bit cheaper!
It’s also the time when we start feeling the urgent need to escape Swizzyland and its winter. Maybe not too far away, but definitely somewhere without fog and rain. In the end, we settle on a few days in Cabo Verde – those islands off the African coast.
So, we’re busy researching what to do on these islands and booking flights for mid-January, once the X-mas madness is over.
Then 2025 arrives, and just two weeks remain until we head to Cabo Verde.
Mindelo, 15th January
Finally, it’s January 14th. Time to head to Zurich airport and start our Cabo Verde trip in a lousy airport hotel. Just to ensure we’re ready for our first flight to Lisbon at 6 am tomorrow, then on to São Vicente, Cabo Verde.
About 6h crammed into Air Portugal’s beautiful plane. Of course, it’s with those sadistic seats – you don’t even need to think about reclining, designed perfectly for people no taller than 1.10m.
To keep the passengers minimally content, just before landing, the pilot offers the tortured passengers a small sightseeing tour of Santo Antão – Cabo Verde’s most beautiful island.
Not long after, we land at the Cesária Évora International Airport. 1 of the tiniest airports we’ve ever seen.
Surprisingly, they have automated immigration for those who filled out their ETS – and most important paid the fee. A short ride to town follows, then we spend ages searching for our sleepery – well it’s with a guy just renting out 1 room, who forgot to put any signs or even share the correct address.
Finally, we’re ready to explore Mindelo, said to be the most beautiful town in Cabo Verde.
In the evening, we stumble upon a charming, old-fashioned eatery with some live music – a guy performing Fado at its finest. For us, the chance to munch on some sea monsters.
Ponta do Sol, 17th January
Early the next morning, we head to Porto Novo on Santo Antão Island – just a 1-hour ferry ride away.
Arriving there, we quickly find our rental car. A Dacia Duster. You know, the type of vehicle hip urban people use to pick up a smoothie from the nearest supermarket. We call it Tuk Tuk – no idea why, maybe because it looks like these tiny vehicles in Bangkok.
We’re on our way to Ponta do Sol, on the other side of Santo Antão Island. Just a few km away as the crow flies, but 40km as Tuk Tuk winds its way along the cobblestoned road over the mountains. It’s said to be the most spectacular road Cabo Verde has to offer.
Let’s find out!
After a while, we reach an altitude of 1000 meters. The landscape changes dramatically – the dry, semi-deserted slopes transform into lush, wet forests, and the sun disappears behind a layer of fog. Yeah, we’re entering the green side of the island.
We take a small side road heading to Pico da Cruz, 1 of the highest mountains on the island at nearly 1600 meters. Don’t expect a massive climb, though – it’s just a 20-minute stroll from the nearby village.
On the way, a viewpoint to admire the island’s famous Paul Valley – mostly hiden in the fog. And another 1 to see the even more famous Cova Crater – nothing but fog.
Then on to the village next to Pico da Cruz and a short hike up to the peak.
Ok, a nice view, still we’ve expected a little more.
Onward to Ponta do Sol on the other side of the island. Passing another viewpoint of Cova Crater – now in the bright sun, followed by a spectacular descent to the coast.
In the afternoon, we finally reach Ponta do Sol. A fishing village with some 2000 lost souls, recently beginning to develop into 1 of Santo Antão’s tourist hubs.
Of course, it doesn’t cater to all-inclusive tourists spoiled by sea, sand, and schnapps. Instead, there are a number of small guest houses and apartments. Consequently, in the afternoon many tourists sneak along the beachfront, trying to book a table at 1 of the 3 town’s small restaurants. Or, exploring the rather unusual main square and the fishermen’s harbor.
Later in the afternoon, it’s all about the world’s most beautiful sunset—at least according to some sources.
The next morning, we’re all set for our incredible hike along Santo Antão’s wildest coast – 16 km and about 5 hours of following a traditional mule path from the tiny hamlet of Cruzinha back to Ponta do Sol. To get to the starting point, we need to take a taxi, and then the adventure begins. We’re surprised by how few other tourists are doing this hike!
After a few kilometers, we come across an abandoned village. It feels incredibly remote and lonely, only accessible on foot. No wonder no one wants to live there.
After a little more than 2h, we reach the midpoint: the hamlet of Formiguinhas. A handful of houses and an eatery for the weary hikers.
From here, it’s just a short distance to Fonteinhas – said to be Cabo Verde’s most beautiful village.
Still, before reaching it, a steep ascent of a few 100m in the heat of the early afternoon.
Finally, another hour to reach Punta do Sol.
Time for a beer, followed by an excellent dinner at Restaurant Caleta (no chance of getting a table, if not booked at least a day in advance – a kind of overtourism in this tiny village, you know).
Boca di Figueiral, 19th March
The next morning : time to say goodbye to Santo Antão’s north coast. We’re on the way to the Vale do Paul . Just a few km away, yet a completely different world. A lush, green valley surrounded by some of the most bizarre mountains you’ll ever see. A short drive along the coast to Ribeira Grande, then a detour to another side valley, the Ribeira da Torre. The 1 famous for its massive lava tower – Tope de Miranda – visible from afar.
A short stroll at the end of the road – and that’s it. Maybe today we’re just too lazy for a longer hike. Who knows.
Back to the coast, to Ribeira Grande. A small town where it won’t take morer than 10’ to see each’n’every house in the CBD.
After this little escape to urban life, we’re off to Vale do Paul. Just a few km to Boca di Figueiral where our sleepery is. Of course, it’s not simply located right by the road where everybody passes by. Nope, they built it on a hill above it. About 100m up and a 15’ sneaking exercise on a steep path. Quite a challenge for certain tourists with their heavy suitcases. Arriving there, we get the point: it’s all about the view.
Another day, another hike. Today we’re tackling Santo Antão’s most famous trail – from the Cova Crater down to our guesthouse in the Paul Valley. To get to the starting point, we need a taxi pickup. It’s about a 30km, 2h drive – just to walk 10km back. Luckily, we can share the ride with another hiker.
Then the adventure begins: a 1000m descent on an old mule track. At times, the slope of the mountain is so steep it’s hard to believe anyone ever managed to build a path here.
Well, we’re super lucky today. There’s exceptionally little fog and no clouds. Just the magnificient view at its absolute best.
Along the way an unsuccessful attempt to buy some bread at a village’s supermarket.
Then, after 5h, we’re back at the guesthouse – just in time for some dolce far niente.
Chã de Morte, 20th Januar
After 2 days in Vale do Paul, it’s time to move on. To Santo Antão’s dry and desert-like southeast.
We’re heading along the coast back to Porto Novo, and on to Chã de Morte. Don’t imagine it’s a huge journey; it’s just about 50km for Tuk Tuk to drive.
On the way, a glimpse of the island’s famous lighthouse, Farol de Fontes Pereira de Melo or simply Farol do Boi.
Arriving in Chã de Morte, we head to our surprisingly stylish guesthouse just outside the village.
From there, we drive on to the western side of the island. The road is absolutely spectacular, winding its way up to a high mountain pass before descending even more dramatically to the tiny village of Ribeira da Cruz.
Porto Novo, 23rd January
Early the next morning, the guesthouse arranges transport for us to the village of Alto Mira. The starting point for a hike over the Forquinha Pass back to Chã de Morte. Not a very long hike, just 3h, but pretty exciting.
Unfortunately, there’s no chance to stay longer in Chã de Morte. Too many other tourists had the same idea. So, everything fully booked.
Finally, we head to a sleepery at the beach near Porto Novo. Admittedly, we had some doubts about what they offer – still, we didn’t expect such a rundown and neglected place. So, for your next trip to Santo Antão, you’re warned. Not even think about staying at Casa de France. It’s definitely the wrong place to be.
Whatever. We’re stuck here for 2 nights because we cannot cancel our booking anymore.
Of course, we can’t leave Santo Antão without checking out its desert-like southwest. So, we’re heading to Tarrafal – just 40 km and a 2-hour drive away.
A scenic road over a pass of 1400m followed by a steep descent to the sea to reach the village.
Tarrafal – a small fishing village that feels like the end of the world. Yet, some of their road signs are surprisingly clear about how to behave.
The next morning, we finally leave the lousy Casa de France and head for a sleepery in Porto Novo.
Today, our plan is to visit the last spot on the island that we haven’t seen yet: Parque Natural do Moroços. Yeah, we know it’s probably not the island’s most spectacular spot – but if there’s a day left.
Upon arrival, we find ourselves in the thickest fog imaginable. So, time to slowly drive back.
Hey guys, that’s it for this post. Enough is enough.
Still, promised, there’ll be another 1 soon. Even more boring – about other Cabo Verde islands, more adventures, and more general poetry.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin