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Back to Africa, Part 3: Fogo, Cabo Verde
Fogo, our 3rd island. A fascinating place completely different. A massive volcano with 100s of side crates, some still periodically active.
Fogo, Cabo Verde
Portela, 1st February
Early morning in Praia. We’re in a taxi heading to the airport.
A 20′ flight to the Island of Fogo. Again with a subsidiary of Cabo Verde Airlines.
Upon arrival, a taxi to town, where our next car awaits us. Again, a Dacia Duster. After a quick inspection of its exterior, we call it Scratchy – a well-fitting name for this poorly maintained car, desperately crying for a minimum of affection and love from the rental company.
Then we’re on our way up to the crater. As usual, a cobblestone road winding its way up to nearly 2000m thru the sunburnt, dusty landscape.
Arriving on the crest of the massive caldera, we enter a different world – Pico de Fogo towering in the center, surrounded by dozens of smaller volcanoes. The entire area covered by lava fields of varying ages.
This is where we’ll spend the next few days.
Upon arrival in Portela, we check into a pretty nice sleepery: Casa Mariza. Its speciality – the volcanic underfloor heating. A handy feature at 1700m, where the nights can get freezing. Well, and how do you regulate this heating? Simple: by opening or closing the door and the windows of the room. That’s it.
A visit to the village of Portela. Most houses are newly built, as the area was heavily affected by the eruption of Pico do Inferno in 2014. The lava flow of this side crater destroyed a large part of the village. In some places, you can still see the roofs of the former houses buried in the lava field, and some partially lava-covered houses which are inhabited again.
The next morning, we’re set off for a hike thru the volcanic landscape. To Pico do Inferno – this side crater that last erupted in 2014. Now, accessible to curious visitors. A 3-4h hike, starting thru Fogo’s famous vineyards, then ascending thru lava fields before finally reaching the crater.
Coxo, 3rd February
Another day, another hike. Today just a short 1 to some side craters.
Back to Portela – time to say goodbye to the volcanoes. We’re on the road to a sleepery in the hamlet of Coxo, a little above Fogo’s proud capital, São Filipe. This time, we’re taking the road that exits the crater to the north, known as the new evacuation road. An emergency route built after Volcan Inferno’s last eruption.
It’s a narrow cobblestone road, winding thru some of the few forests in Fogo. High above the sea.
Upon arrival at our sleepery, it’s time to do nothing, and later, enjoy the sunset.
Our last day in Fogo. And our final chance to explore the island’s lowland. Of course, don’t expect vast flat plains here. It’s more about a drive around the island, along the slopes of the volcano, not too far above sea level.
To start with, a visit to São Filipe.
Then we’re on the ring road around Fogo. About 100km and a 4h-drive.
A 1st stop at a small, lonely church perched above the sea.
From there, we continue counterclockwise around the island. As usual on a bumpy cobblestone road – steep volcanic slopes on one side, the sea on the other.
Later in the afternoon, we’re back to our sleepery.
The question remains: is it worth driving all around Fogo. Well, we’re not really sure about that. The highlight of Fogo is definitely the caldera, with its massive Pico do Fogo in the middle of it.
Praia, 5th February
Our journey on Fogo is coming to an end. In the afternoon, we’re flying back to Cabo Verde’s capital, Praia. Just another 25′ until we arrive. On the way, a last glimpse of Fogo and its volcanoes.
A short drive to town in an overprized taxi, then it’s time to soak in the old-fashioned music of some old men at a streetside watering hole.
Just 1 day left in Cabo Verde.
Initially, we planned to visit the nearby site of Cidade Velha. But the exorbitant taxi prices, the lack of public transport, and the place’s questionable reputation led us to spend more time exploring the Plato of Praia instead.
It’s true, exploring Praia’s old town doesn’t take much time – it’s basically just one main road. But add in two markets, and you’ve got enough to keep you busy for at least half the day.”
A stroll thru Mercado Sucupira – Cabo Verde’s biggest market, where you get just everything you may ever need in your life. Provided you’ll find the marketstand.
Finally, in the evening, a last sumptuous gourmet dinner Cabo Verdian- style: grilled fish, boiled veggies, and boiled rice. As usual.
Luzern, 7th February
The next morning, only the long flight back to cold’n’foggy Swizzyland remains. With lousy TAP.
Today, to Lisbon. A flight even with a refueling stop on Gran Canaria. Who knows why – maybe too many overweight passengers, too much Cabo Verdian grog as cargo, or a leak in the fuel tank. Along the way, even 1 of TAP’s gourmet meals specially crafted for chicken-class passengers: twice-cooked pasta soaked in tomato soup.
A night in a sleepery at Lisbon’s airport, then on to Zurich. On this flight, they even serve complimentary water.
Well, that’s it – we’re back. Ready to recover from our short, but wonderful trip to Cabo Verde, continue hibernation, and start planning for our next adventure.
Hey guys, that’s it. After reading all this, you can be more than happy that there won’t be another post about Cabo Verde.
No, seriously that’s it.
But don’t despair – no need to call your favorite psychologist or check into rehab for jealousyreloaded-addicted junkies.
Soon we’ll be back with more boring stuff. From our next adventures, which are still to be planned.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin