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Alsace and Lorraine, 7. 2024 - A Trip to France's War-Torn Landscapes
2 short trips to France’s Alsace and Lorraine. Most of the time a bit off the beaten track, and sometimes in the middle of real hotspots of overtourism.
A visit to the remnants of the grim past of French-German relations over the past 150 years. Some villages as kitschy as they come, and a visit to the birthplace of French Champagne.
Alsace and Lorraine, France 2024
Swizzyland, April – July
We’ve been back in Swizzyland since mid-April. And ever since we’ve been waiting for spring and summer to show up. So far, it hasn’t been the usual sun, sand, and sundowners vibe. No, it’s been more like a never-ending cold outdoor shower and the feeling of rain, storm’n’chill.
Anyway, it’s July now. The weather’s slightly improving, and we desperately need a change. Not for months. No, just until the next storm depression rolls in.
We decide to head with our van to nearby France. Just to the border region of Alsace and Lorraine. True, before, we’ve been to Alsace many times. So, we decide not to visit the vineyards again or the kitschy villages, packed with tourists from all over the world coming to marvel at Alsace’s Disneyland vibe.
This time, it’s a trip into the region’s recent history. The never-ending atrocity of wars with its eastern neighbor, Germany. An aspect we’ve ignored in the past.
Maybe you remember the good old school days. When you were tortured by a merciless teacher trying to arouse your enthusiasm by explaining all details of the wars between the Germies and the Frenchies in 1870, WW 1, and WW 2. Explaining in all details how they murdered each other, poisened each’n’everyone, and finally didn’t gain anything but a few square kilometers of farmland that none of them really cared about. Except for their respective autocrats.
So, don’t be surprised if you notice quite a few similarities with the current situation in Ukraine.
Munchhausen, 12th July
Finally, we’re all set to go. From Swizzy’s Luzern to France’s Le Hohwald.
Quickly we find a site to camp where the focus is about Flammkuchen and beer – not on the echoes of recent history.
The next morning, we head to the only Nazi concentration camp in France: Le Struthof. Today, it’s a memorial honoring the 22 000 people who were murdered there during World War II.
On to the the next memorial of ideology, power obsession, and hubris. The massive Fort of Mutzig, built 40 years earlier by German Emperor Wilhelm II. Apart from costing a fortune in tax payers’ money that was desperately needed for more constructive purposes, this enormous construction ended up having a significant impact on WW 1: the Frenchies were so intimidated by it that they never dared to attack it. Instead, they simply bypassed the fort to reconquer Alsace.
Consequently, this massive defence machinery uniquely served as a damp, cold, and cramped quarter for brave German soldiers, offering no opportunities for heroic deaths for Emperor and fatherland.
Enough of history and memories of pointless wars – it’s time for a change. We quickly find a spot for the van along the shores of the River Rhine.
And we admire a sunset as kitschy as it gets. And a beer or 2.
What else do we remember about this place? Lots of mozzies.
Riquewihr, 13th July
Next morning, we’re back to our history trip. Diving deeper into Europes megalomania.
We head for France’s most famous monument especially constructed for WW 2: the Maginot Line.
After the French learned how easily a single fort could be bypassed and ignored, they decided to build not just isolated structures, but an entire line stretching over 1,000 km. A great idea – just with no impact during WW 2. Still, an excellent way to waste taxpayers’ money, isn’t it?
Of course, we’re not planning to explore all 1,000 km, so we’re focusing on Fort Schoenenburg in northern Alsace.
After exploring the fort, somehow we don’t feel too motivated to continue with Franco-German history porn.
Anyway, weather forecast is catastrophic for the next few days. So, we’d better head back to Luzern and wait for summer to return. On the way, some chances to admire Alsatian kitsch at its best.
A quick stop in Hunspach, then on to Riquewihr, where we spend the night at a crowded campsite.
And take the chance to munch on some choucroute garni. Along with 1000 other tourists who think they’re visiting an authentic French village – without realizing that the Frenchies just built their own version of Disneyland for them.
Still, we enjoy it after all the grim sites we’ve visited in the past few days.
Luzern, 15th July
Next morning. Weather is much better than expected. For us, a strong motivation to visit another 1 of these authentic Alsatian villages: Eguisheim. At least the Frenchis have classified it as 1 of their most beautiful villages. Probably something like a pueblo mágico in Mexico.
True, it’s a bit similar to the style of Riquewihr, with lots of tourists taking endless selfies, munching on Flammkuchen on the main square, and watching storks passing by. What more could you want?
The next morning, we’re on our way back to Luzern. Of course, not without a stop at a French supermarket to pick up everything that’s rarely available in Swizzyland.
Obernai, 18th July
In Luzern, we’re quite busy – of course, counting raindrops.
But there’s even more: for the past 2 weeks, we’ve known we’re sharing our van with a sizable population of ants. Don’t think we see them too often. No, some of them are usually just strolling around- so, no major issue. Until we discover 1000s of ant eggs under the bed. We remove them, but a few days later, we find another bunch in the shoe compartment. We still can’t figure out where they’re coming from.
Now, it’s time to seriously tackle these lovely animals with some fogger, followed by a thorough cleaning of the entire van. You see – busy times.
Finally, on 18th July, we’re back on the road. To Obernai in Alsace. By now planning to discover Lorraine – just north of Alsace.
Our 1st stop is Neuf-Brisach. Right at the Germy border. Not to dive into grim history. Instead, we’re heading for the Musée d’Art Urbain et du Street Art. A place to admire murals created by artists all around the world, displayed in the chambers of the citadel.
Late afternoon, we arrive in Obernai. Another 1 of these kitsch villages that tourists like that much. A stroll thru the alleys and the main plaza, and finally take a rest at a street-side bar to cool down with a well-deserved beer.
Verdun, 20th July
We’re on our way to Metz, leaving Alsace for Lorraine. And entering the flattest landscape of France.
Arriving there, we quickly find a nice spot for our van – right next to the Moselle River; within walking distance to the old town.
Despite its relatively small size, the old town of Metz is filled with elegant houses, numerous bars’n’restaurants, lively squares, a massive Gothic cathedral, and some streets that still bear witness to their German heritage from about 150 years ago.
Well, Metz is also the home of the famous Centre Pompidou with its renowned museum for contemporary art. Displaying ever-changing exhibitions of modern national and international artists.
Enough reasons to visit. Even for guys not that keen to having seen each’n’every museum in the world.
Still, it’s true – at least for us, it hasn’t always been easy to understand the deeper meaning of some of the exhibits. Never mind, others are cool enough.
Yeah, in the last few days, we’ve really been focusing on peaceful places to visit. Some kitsch, some urban vibe.
Definitely no grim reminders of heroic actions by the Frenchies or Germies, and no immense graveyards allowing the descendants of those brave soldiers to know that their fathers, grandfathers, and great-grandfathers were not the only 1s to die an ultimate hero’s death.
Today, driving thru the slightly hilly landscape west of Metz, things definitely change. We’re approaching Verdun, the ultimate battleground of WW 1. The fields where about a million brave soldiers were slaughtered, poisoned, wounded, or missing in the trenches and forts of the battle fields. All, of course, to gain a few km of hostile terrain, conquer a lousy village or 2, and honor the glory of their respective fatherlands. For anyone thinking that’s a stuffy relict of history – greetings from Ukraine’s Donbass.
To keep sweet vanlife vibe going, even at a place like Verdun, we’re staying at the nearby campsite. A pretty neglected spot.
Anyway, we’re on our way to Verdun’s Subterranean Citadelle. Built about 130 years ago, it only came to life during WW 1 when it was transformed into a true underground city.
Today, it’s a major tourist attraction. It’s not really a place to commemorate the grim days of the battle. Instead, it’s more of a digital journey on a small train thru the citadelle’s passageways. Wearing 3D glasses, they try to immerse you into the life of the poor guys during the war days of 1916. Unfortunately, not too convincing.
Enough of Verdun’s Disneyland. We’re heading to the Ossuary of Douaumont. A memorial built about 100 years ago to honor the fallen and remember the horror of the world’s 1st industrialised war. It was inaugurated just about 15 years before WW 2 started, bringing even more victims.
Next to the ossuary is Verdun’s largest military fortification, Fort Douaumont.
Today, it’s a museum. Even though it was heavily damaged during the battles in 1916, you can still see many of the inner structures as well as the remnants of these weapons they imagined to keep off their enemies.
Despite all the efforts of the Frenchies, the fort was captured by the Germies within a few days. It was retaken only 8 months later by the Frenchies’ Moroccan troops. Yeah, it probably wasn’t what the great strategist of the Grande Nation had expected.
On the way back to our cozy, but poorly maintained campsite, a quick look at the remnants of some trenches. Today, difficult to imagine that the guys lived and fought there for months and years.
Epernay, 22nd July
After having seen all these remnants of glorious French-German history and their armies slaughtering each other, we definitely need something more uplifting.
So, we’re leaving behind the battlefields, shell-torn landscapes, and endless graveyards, heading to Épernay in beautiful Champagne.
The town: a posh main road lined with even more distinguished headquarters of everyone who’s anyone in the world of champaign. In between, restaurants struggling to find space on their signboards for all the Michelin Stars they’ve received.
The next day, we’re touring thru the villages and vineyards in the Marne Valley. The places where they produce the juice to produce champagne.
Kaysersberg, 24th July
The next morning, a short drive to Reims. We’re expecting a beautiful, lively town with plenty of urban vibe.
Somehow, the place doesn’t meet our expectations. Despite the oversized cathedral and some imposing buildings, we find the town rather unattractive, dirty, and lacking in life.
So, shortly after, we’re heading back south. 2 days to reach Kaysersberg in southern Alsace.
Kaysersberg. 1 of the most famous villages in Alsace. As a real tourist hotspot, it’s filled with numerous eateries, sleeperies, and overpriced souvenir shops selling everything that China produces.
We’re lucky, to find 1 of the last parking spots near the village where overnight stays are permitted.
So, nothing can stop us from exploring this incredible place.
Luzern, 25th July
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast at the parking spot, it’s time to say goodbye to France.
Just a 2-hour drive to reach Luzern.
Guys, that’s it for this post. Our very 1st 1 on a short trip. We’re pretty optimistic that if you’re reading this sentence, you didn’t fall asleep while admiring all this boring stuff we did during our visit to the Grande Nation.
We can easily understand that you’re extremely excited to read about our next adventure as soon as possible. No worries, we’ll be back with more soon.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin
