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Southeast Europe Part 1: A Quicky Thru Austria on the Way to Hungary
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Finally, we’re back on another road trip with the van – this time heading to Southeast of Europe. A quick trip thru Austria, then on to Hungary. Lots of history here, but not exactly packed with real adventures.
Luzern 2 Budapest
Stams, 6th September
Summer holiday and summer craziness are over. Now begins the senior citizen’s season. You know, all these folks who’ve escaped salary slavery, grey-haired and wrinkled, ready to tackle the most dangerous mountain trails with their rolling walkers – and more than eager to burn through their kids’ inheritance in no time.
Fortunately, there are much fewer of those happy elderly guys than desperate parents with their nasty kids in the June – July holiday season.
So, every reason for us to leave beautiful Lucerne for a road trip through Southeastern Europe – a region we haven’t explored before.
With our van, we quickly cross Swizzyland, 2h later we’re at the border to the Principality of Lichtenstein and 10″ later we already cross into Austria.
Just 2h left to reach Stams. A tiny village, mostly known for its monastery, and its great’n’reasonable campsite.
A visit to the Abbey of Stams. This monastery, built some 750 years ago, underwent an extensive facelift just a few years ago. So, today it’s surely an outstanding example of Austria’s Baroque architecture. However, it might be just a bit too ornate’n’colorful for everyone’s taste.
Sopron, 7th September
We’ve seen Stams – visited the abbey and munched on some Schnitzel in the adjacent Orangerie. Now, it’s time to move on. Eastwards to Irdning some 300km away.
Arriving there in the afternoon, it’s not too easy to find a spot for the van. Everything seems pretty full. No idea what the hell all these folks and their unruly kids are doing here.
Anyway, we eventually find enough space to have a couple of beers and a night’s sleep.
And finally, we solve the mystery of the overcrowding: the Austries are still on school holidays until the end of the week. They haven’t switched to the Silverback Period yet.
Initially, we’ve planned to drive to Lake Balaton tomorrow. But now it’s clear everything will be packed with parents’n’kids enjoying the vacation of their lives. Ok, we need to be flexible. Sopron, a few km further north, will be tomorrow’s destination. No familly would visit a town with their beautiful grumming juniors.
So, next morning, we’re on our way to Sopron, Hungary. 2h to reach the border, then just a few km to Sopron.
Quickly, we head to our site. A kind of fenced parking with all modcons. Just an empty gravel field – and we’re the only 1s. No wonder there would be the feeling of the last human in a huge desert – would the place not be surrounded by busy highways. Anyway, it’s just a 5″ walk to Sopron’s center.
Sopron: the city said to have 1 of the most beautiful old towns in Hungary. So, reason enough to sneak thru the alleys and squares. However, just outside the newly renovated area, it looks slightly different – many buildings with crumbling facades and even more constructions in this unmistakable socialist style they liked that much during their period of People’s Own Socialism. To add to this – probably 100s of signs for dentists. Looks like Austries have serious problems with their teeth, and nobody cares about pulling them.
Then we’re in the old town. Everything neat and tidy. Quite a few tourists exploring all the small streets, the top of the famous Fire Tower, …
…and all these churches. Looks like they were important, but somehow feel like grim and dark places to gather.
Of course, we also need to try some of the local delicacies – our 1st experience with delicious Hungy cuisine.
Balatonalmandi, 9th September
No reason to stay more than a night at our beautiful gravel campsite in Sopron. Now we’re heading to world famous Lake Balaton. Once the ultimate holiday destination for desperate East Europeans perfectly shielded by the Iron Curtain from the corrupted influence of Western decadence. Millions of brave citizens from the former GDR, various socialst republics, and even the almighty USSR dreamed of spending their summer holidays on the shores of Lake Balaton, staying in 1 of the famous people-owned hotels and munching on the famous local starved chicken dinner with peppers (if available).
By noon, we reach this famous place. Of course, more than 30 years after the fall of the famous Iron Curtain and the socialist dictatorships, the place has lost some of its glamour. We quickly find a place to start our Balaton adventure. In Badacsony. The campsite seems to be mostly populated by nostalgic former citizens of the GDR, who still can’t believe that the Maldives might be an alternative to the lake. Whatever. We take a look at the lake, ready to dip into the cristal-clear blue waters we’ve seen in the tourist brochures. Instead, the water is just grey and muddy. Finally, we decide to limit our watersports to a shower.
Near our campsite is Szigligeti Vár, a castle on a hill overlooking the lake.
Well, not too impressive, still a nice view on Lake Balaton from the top.
On to some traditional villages in the hinterland of Lake Balaton: Salföld and Széntbekkálla. The former definitely has a number of historic country houses. Beautifully restored and shielded from the public as much as possible. Looks like some pretty wealthy folks have taken over.
The second village feels quite isolated. Not much to see except for what they call the Sea of Stones – a number of rocks scattered in a forest that you reach after a short hike.
Budapest, 11th September
We stay another day at Lake Balaton. Mainly because it’s constantly raining. From early morning to late at night. The opportunity to stock up on food in a nearby supermarket, enjoy van life from inside the car, counting raindrops and observing other campers getting soaked within minutes.
Another day, the sun is back. We’re heading to Budapest. The Hungie’s proud capital.
On the way, a stop in Veszprém to check out at its famous old town. Unfortunately, it’s a short visit. They’re restoring several houses in the center. As a result, all nearby roads remain closed to the public until 5p.m. Seems to be a speciality of Hungy construction sites to shield them from any curious glances.
Then just a few km to reach Budapest on the highway.
We stay at Camping Haller, a site perfectly located for visiting the city, next to a metro station. However, quite neglected, filthy, and congested. Not exactly the place we dream of …
… but only 10′ with the modern metro to the city center.
There a short walk to River Danube.
Alongside many enormous buildings – some in pretty bad shape, others restored to their former glory.
We cross the river on the famous Széchenyi Chain Bridge, with the castle in the background. Definitely the ultimate Insta spot for the many tourists expecting to impress Uncle Xhi Gin Dong back home.
A short climb up the hill to the castle. To the terrace, said to have the best view of the River Danube and the District of Pest. Looks like they’re right, judging by the many tourists queuing up for a selfie.
They’re setting up dozens of gazebos on the terrace for a wine festival that (unfortunately) isn’t happening for a few more days.
Anyway, we decide to skip the castle’s museum. We’re just not that much into exploring historical museums with all this gilded glamour showing off how the rich and beautiful used to live.
So, we head towards the famous Matthias Church. On the way, a bunch of construction sites. Looks like the Hungy Government finally received some funds from EU coffers to restore their heritage.
The church – from the outside, sugar-bakery style at its worst. Inside pretty special.
Finally, we check out Budapest’s famous Fisherman’s Bastion. Quite kitschy, but maybe perfect for setting the scene of the next Snow White movie.
The next morning, we focus on the other side of the river – the District of Pest.
To start with the massive market. In some areas, geared towards locals – especially with the subterranean Aldi supermarket. In other parts, pure tourist kitsch at its finest.
Then we make our way to Pest’s great synagogue. Unfortunately, they seem discouraging poor tourists with their hefty entrance fee. Whatever, there are plenty of other places to visit.
St. Stephan’s Basilika – the largest church in town. True, they must have worked hard to build such an enormous construction.
Still, inside it’s not too atmospheric, especially compared to Matthias Church we visited yesterday.
Still, there’s a big advantage: we can climb to the dome of the basilica for the best view of the District of Buda.
Finally, a glance at Hungary’s Parliament. A huge construction in their specific sugar bakery style. True, it looks quite impressive, even if we may oppose quite some decisions they take in that building.
Folks, that’s it for this 1st post about our adventures during our trip thru Southeast Europe. Updates, including even more boring stuff, soon – in our next post.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin