Time to study the weather forecast. They promise bright sunshine for tomorrow. Great, for the Mt. Cook area.
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New Zealand - Just Glaciers and Sea Lions
From the Banks Peninsula to New Zealand’s highest mountain and back to the coast on the way to Dunedin.
Akaroa 2 Dunedin
Otematata, 3th March
We’re in Akaroa, ready to leave for Mt. Cook.
True, it’s quite a bit to drive. About 340km, 5h on the road.
Whatever, Rusty, our beaten-up rental car and us are ready to go, even if weather is definietly perfectible.
Early afternoon, we arrive in Lake Tekapo. A major tourist hub for Mt. Cook National Park.
It’s a place full of Chinese tourists. Even if they mainly seem to come for stargazing, the impression prevails that taking pics in poses they’ve learned for years on YouTube is their main occupation. But who knows?
In the evening, we finally reach the small town of Twizel – another gateway to Mount Cook. And we discover that we’ve rented quite a big house – just for us. Well, in New Zealand you take what you get if everything is booked.
The next morning it becomes clear: never trust the weather forecast. At least no rain, but thick clouds – it’s ok for some minor hikes in Mt. Cook NP. Maybe we’ll even see some mountains, or at least the clouds covering them.
Arriving at the trailheads, we even find a decent, but expensive parking spot for Rusty.
Then we’re on the famous Hooker Valley Trail. True, it’s the most famous hike every visitor has to make. Unfortunately, it’s closed after the 1st third. A suspension bridge was in too dangerous condition for all these tourists and it takes quite some time to get a new 1.
Whatever, let’s discover the adventures awaiting us on the remaining part. Obviously, you’re never alone on this trail. And, it’s probably a good idea to know some basic Chinese before you start. Finally, don’t be astonished if you find a number of hikers who’ve had some accidents on this wide and extremely well developed trail. They’re simply not used to walking on anything else than the polished floors of shopping malls.
Whatever, great landscape – even if we see more clouds than mountains. Just ignore these masses of people sneaking around.
Of course, the rangers do their level best to avoid accidents due to their insufficient infrastructure or mortalities caused by Chinese selfie-mania. For sure, most warnings are completely ignored when the selfie of your life awaits you.
Just a few km away, a short trail leads to Tasman Lake.
Of course, still a lot of people – well, maybe 10% of the visitors of the Hooker Valley Trail.
And a great view over the lake with the mountains in the background.
Then back to Twizel. The weather clears up, and on the way back we even see Mt. Cook. For the very 1st time.
Another day, and excellent weather. Could not be better. So, time to go for a hike.
Quite early we’re again on our way to the national park. Hoping to find some space to leave Rusty and imagining that there might be less folks on the trails.
Then we’re on our way to the Sealy Tarns. Said to have 1 of the most spectacular views you can have on a day hike.
But this trail isn’t your usual stroll. Don’t think it’s just hiking along, maybe with some roots and stones. Nope, the Kiwis turned it into a full-on workout for everyone. They installed 2200 steps, climbing 600m in just 2km. So yeah, some serious leg work is waiting for you.
After 10′ stairclimbing already the 1st viewpoint. Time to take some breath, marvel at the view and observe the other guys passing panting.
Another 15′ to the 2nd lookout. Still, be aware, there are more than 1500 steps ahead.
It’s just 1 1/4h to the Tarns. Most hikers arrive pretty exhausted – a few aren’t.
And the real masochists can still go further up to the Muller Hut – another 2h hike straight up the mountain.
Of course, as usual in Mt. Cook NP you have to share the viewpoint with a few other people. Still, compared to Hooker Trail, it’s empty and you risk dying of loneliness.
Time to admire 1 of the the greatest views in Mt. Cook NP.
Then back to the carpark. Just 45′, but again 2200 steps. Now down.
In the afternoon we’re driving to Otematata. A small village about 100 km away. Don’t think we’ve chosen this place because it’s so scenic or interesting. No, it’s just where we found accommodation within the traveling range of Mt. Cook NP.
A drive thru a landscape strongly reminding us of South Africa.
Then, finally the well-deserved beer in the local pub.
Oamaru, 4th March
Near Otematata there are some clay cliffs we wanna see. So our 1st visit the next morning is clear. It’s just a 1/2h drive from our sleepery, partly on a gravel road to reach the site. A short walk, and we’re in the middle of these cliffs.
Then we’re on the road to the east coast. To Oamaru.
A short stop at the Maerewhenua Maori Rock Art site. Unfortunately, not too much remains to see. Much was removed or destroyed.
Despite a certain protection they have constructed, we have the impression nobody cares too much.
A little further is the geological formation of the Elephant Rocks. It seems certain visitors can see elephants grazing in the field. We really try our level best, but we can just identify some ugly faces and a camel chilling in the grass. Whatever, everybody has their imagination.
Early in the afternoon, we arrive in Oamaru. Well, we’ve booked a slightly strange backpacker. The guys optimized the whole thing for their profit. Exactly at 3pm they send you an email with the door code and your room number. Great, just what to do when you arrive at 1 pm. Wait in front of the hostel’s door? Possible, but boring. Better to visit nearby Bushy Beach. A nice beach with some sea lions.
By the way, at 3pm we get all the information for our self check-in. Other poor guests of this beloved hostel don’t receive anything and are condemned to roam around until someone answers their phone calls.
Later in the afternoon, once we’ve received our hostel’s door code, we sneak thru the historic center of Oamaru. Even today, you can still see how much wealth the guys accumulated in the 19th century.
Finally, we arrive at Oamaru’s most important building, the Scott’s Brewing Company. To have a beer at the place it’s produced. Makes sense – ecologically.
Dunedin, 6th March
Check out time is 10am. That’s exactly the time when our door code will not work anymore and we’re locked out – or maybe locked in.
Whatever, even before 10 we’re on our way to Dunedin, the South Island’s 2nd biggest city. Just a bit more than 100km along the coast.
A 1st break at the Moeraki Boulders, a beach with strange stones looking like giant billiard balls.
Then further along the coast with some stops to see sea lions hanging around.
Then we’re in Dunedin. Time to have a look at its CBD, a mix of a few historic buildings, some modern architectural highlights, and a lot of nondescript constructions. Well, the area is really not huge, you won’t need an hour to see it all.
Parts of the city center remind us of a South African town. Somehow not well maintained infrastructure, many shops closed down, and rarely anybody sneaking around. Of course, here without South Africa’s crime problems.
On to the town’s famous railway station. Unfortunately, nowadays not really in use anymore.
The next morning we explore a bit of the town’s surroundings. A drive to Taiaroa Head seems to be the place to go.
On the way we stop for a short walk at Sandfly Bay. Said to be the most beautiful on the peninsula.
Then on to Taiaroa Head. On the way we pass some nice landscapes, but not much to see at Taiaroa Head.
Then back to Dunedin.
And in the evening? Of course the ultimate watering hole to go – The Speight’s Ale House. So, for your next visit, don’t forget – Speight’s.
Hey guys,
That’s it for this post. Yeah, it’s sad, but true.
Whatever, remain jealous and wait impatiently for the next post. Maybe there’s another 1.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin