Our journey thru Europe’s northernmost part. Tromsø – the last big city, the famous North Cape – basically a huge parking lot on a cliff, and the peninsulas on the west and east of it – absolutely amazing landscapes and way more interesting.
Fjordbotn 2 Karigasniemi
Tromsø, 20th June
After all these fjords, coasts, and islands, now we have to see Norway’s north. Europe’s northernmost point where we can see Lappland, Rudolph the Reindeer and its sisters, and the coast of the icy Barent Sea.
Our last night in Fjordbotn. Around 1am, the chance to see the midnight sun rising over the hill on the horizon.
The next morning, we’re leaving beautiful Senja Island, heading to Tromsø – the biggest town in the north.
Since we’re a bit tired of all the ferries up here, we’re taking the longer route to avoid them. It’s about 200 km, a 2-hour drive, to reach the town.
Most of the time we follow Norway’s famous E6 – the main highway connecting the south to the north. It’s the go-to route for all those tour busses racing up to the North Cape, stopping now and then so the poor passengers can let the last night’s beers return to nature and grab a few awful souvenirs.
Late afternoon a visit to Tromsø. It’s 1 of the few towns in Norway that didn’t get completely destroyed during WW2. So, let’s check out the old town with its traditional wooden buildings – and see what actually survived modern times.
Luckily, the town has managed to preserve a number of its traditional houses in a small area around the main street. A bit of a pity that you really feel the impact of cruise ship tourism here too. A lot of these houses have been turned into souvenir shops. And some renovations look like they’re trying to compete with Disneyland at its worst – probably for US tourists. Well, that’s also part of Norway – maybe the ugly side. No idea what the Norwies really get out of this kind of mass tourism, apart from a few souvenir sales.
Finally, a look at the Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø’s most famous building. Honestly, we can’t quite share the enthusiasm that so many people seem to have for it.
North Cape, 23rd June
We’re heading further north. The North Cape is still more than 600km away. Today we plan to reach Burfjord – about halfway. If you’re not sure where Burfjord is, don’t blame the attractive guy or the girl who sat next to you in school when the teacher was explaining about different countries and their villages. No, Burfjord isn’t even a village, just a few houses and a campsite with a great view.
Time for a lazy evening.
The next day – another 200km north, to the village of Russenes. It’s the starting point of the Scenic Route along the western coast of the Porsanger Peninsula. A drive thru a landscape that’s getting more and more arctic, where the tree line descends to around 100 meters.
When we arrive, we head for the 1 and only campsite – the Olderfjord Hotell and Camping. Despite the name, it seems their main focus isn’t really on hosting poor travelers, but making money with a huge souvenir shop and a lousy eatery, catering to the 1000s of bus tour tourists on their adventure trip to the North Cape.
And the campsite? Pretty lousy – more a construction site than a place you’d actually want to stay. The sanitary facilities crying for cleaning for ages.
Whatever. In the afternoon, we explore the scenic route on the Porsanger Peninsula. About 90km to Havøysund, which seems to be the last village before the North Pole. A drive thru a rough and wild landscape shaped by the harsh climate up here at this latitude.
By the way, that strange concrete structure below is a rest place, especially well designed for tourists by a famous Norwy architect. A pretty amazing mix of tourist promotion, natural beauty, and modern design – right here in a place that doesn’t see too many visitors.
Finally, we arrive in Havøysund. Not exactly Miami or Bombay – even though those places also have some fishing boats.
We find a narrow road that goes even a bit further north. Just a few km more to drive.
At the end, we reach the cliffs… and probably far at the horizon, maybe, just maybe, the North Pole, almost 2000km away.
The next morning, we definitely have no reason to linger at this lousy campsite in Russenes.
We’re on our way to the North Cape. Though we know it’s more a tourist trap than anything else.
Well, despite all the stories back home claiming to have visited the northernmost point in Europe – it’s not. Spitzbergen is about 800km further north.
The North Cape isn’t even the northernmost point of continental Europe, since it’s actually on an Island. That title goes to the Nordkinn Peninsula, a few 100 km to the east.
Finally, is the North Cape at least the northernmost point of Magerøya Island? Nope – that spot is a few km to its west.
So, what the hell is the North Cape then? Let’s drive up there and find it out.
It’s just about 100km to reach this dream destination of Scandinavian tourists.
Once again, we’re driving into more Arctic landscapes, though definitely not as rough as yesterday.
After about 70 km, we reach the underwater tunnel that connects Magerøya Island to the rest of the world. And shortly after that, we’re in Honningsvåg, the northernmost town in Norway and …
… the destination of pretty much every cruise ship heading to northern Norway. This is where cruise shippys get off and most of them packed into buses heading for the North Cape.
The more adventurous 1s can hop on quads, the sporty types take bikes, and those who aren’t interested at all either stay on the ship and drink beer or take a little tour around town.
So yeah, plenty of options for the shippys.
When we arrive, we spot 1 huge cruise ship and a slightly smaller 1 docked in the harbor.
We take a stroll thru the fishing harbor, checking out all colorful boats, and stop by a supermarket to grab whatever we might need for the next few days.
Luckily, we only bump into 1 group of cruise shippys – all listening intently to the tour guide explaining that they’re now in the fishing harbor … and they can see fishing boats.
Then on to the North Cape. The landscape takes on a more Arctic feel, especially up on the highlands we’re crossing.
On the way, we encounter at least 15 – 20 tour buses, each 1 labeled with a number and the name of a cruise ship. Yeah, they’ve got to be super organized when they’re moving around 5000 of these poor folks.
At least by the time we arrive, the crowds will already be gone.
Since it’s very windy today, we decide to head for a campsite just a few km south of the Cape. Surprisingly, it’s almost empty … we were expecting it to be very packed.
Whatever, it’s a pretty nice spot by a small lake, and a bit sheltered from the wind.
There’s a short hike right next to the campsite – just a few km to Kirkeporten, a hole in the rock where you can see the midnight sun … on those rare days without clouds.
Today’s definitely no reason to stay up till midnight.
Later in the afternoon, once it’s clear the weather isn’t going to improve today, we drive up to the North Cape – just a few km away.
We reach the entrance gate of a huge parking lot. What else to expect from a hotspot like this? They charge a ridiculous amount just to park the van for a short while – and on top of that, there’s a per-person fee just to walk in the parking lot. Probably their way of replacing the entrance fee they’re no longer allowed to charge.
Ok, the van is parked, plenty of space here. Just the front row along the cliffs is packed with 100s of vans and motorhomes. And very few other vehicles.
Now we get why our campsite was so empty. Everyone has to sleep here, in the storm of the North Cape. Makes for a better story to tell Aunty July and the salary-slavery colleagues back home.
Time to find out what’s so special about this place, that 100 000s of tourists come here every year.
So, what do we see? This huge parking lot – all gravel, dirty – an old-fashioned tourist center that charges even more than the parking, and a monument at the edge of the cliff. Well, that’s about it.
Like everyone else, we have to check out the North Cape Monument. At this time of the day, there are surprisingly few people taking selfies.
But those busy taking selfies are so enthusiastic – a joy to watch them.
Then a stroll along the cliffs, catch a glimpse of the sea stretching straight north toward Spitzbergen and on to the North Pole, and finally take a look at the peninsula to the west – the 1 that actually sticks out further north than the North Cape – please don’t tell anybody about that.
That’s it. We’ve seen it. No need to return.
Mehamn, 25th June
Our visit to the North Cape is on the ash heap of history. For now, we want to reach the northernmost point of Europe that we can get to with our van. So, we’re on our way to the Nordkinn Peninsula, east of the North Cape. To the tiny village of Gamvik. About 440km away, definitely too far to make it in 1 day on these lousy roads here in the north.
So, we drive back to Honningsvåg, the cruise ship capital of the north. On the way, a pretty long line of quads passes by – packed with fresh cruise shippys on their incredible, life-threating adventure to the Cape.
In Honningsvåg, a quick stop for some groceries – and on we are, cruising along the fjords of the Barent Sea.
Later a short hike to the Silfar Canyon.
In the late afternoon, we find a quiet, lonely place with a beautiful view and …
… the next day, we tackle the remaining stretch to the village of Mehamn on Nordkinn Peninsula. A journey back to Arctic landscapes.
In Mehamn we go to the 1 and only campsite on the peninsula. It’s a bit a strange place, but who cares.
Then on to the northernmost point we can reach – the Slettnes Lighthouse. Well, that’s as far as we can drive.
On the way, we pass through the fishing village of Gamvik – home of about 1000 lost souls in 1 of the northernmost settlements in the country.
A few km further, we arrive at the lighthouse. Even though it’s the northernmost 1 in Europe – and the northernmost point you can reach by car – there are surprisingly few tourists around. Just 2 or 3 other campers, some trying to spend the night here in the harsh wind and temperatures around 0. Whatever, maybe that’s their version of the North Cape feeling.
Of course, Slettnes Lighthouse isn’t the actual northernmost point of mainland Europe. There’s a part of the Nordkinn Peninsula that stretches a bit further – but, it’s a 25km hike to get there. One way.
Karigasniemi, 27th June
After this visit, we find ourselves dreaming of Piña Coladas on a tropical beach in the Maldives. So, we think we’ve seen enough of Norway’s Arctic peninsulas along the Barent Sea. It’s time for something new: we’re planning to follow the Tana River for its final stretch, then head to Finland.
So, this morning, we’re driving further east to the river mouth near the village of Tana bru.
About 200km to drive, once again along the Arctic coast.
In Tana bru, we have a look at the campsite. Unfortunately, it’s so rundown and filthy that we decide to continue a few km to the southern coast of the Varangerhalvøya Peninsula. We find a slightly better spot and decide to spend the night there.
The next day, it’s time to say goodbye to Norway – after 7 weeks and nearly 8000km on the road.
About 220km to drive along the Tana River to Karasjok, then over the border into Finland. This route is pretty popular with tourists visiting northern Finland – it’s often described as 1 of the most beautiful journeys thru Lapland.
Honestly, it’s a bit of a snooze – birch trees left and right, a quick peek at the river now and then, and that’s pretty much it. Maybe we’ve just been totally spoiled by Norway’s jaw-dropping scenery along the west coast to really enjoy this stretch.
About halfway, there’s a bridge crossing into Finland, where we find the Church of Utsjoki with its famous historic block houses used by churchgoers from the whole area.
Then we follow the river further until we reach the next bridge into Finland in the late afternoon.
Luckily, there’s a nice campsite right at the border in Karigasniemi. And wowww, what a difference – hardly anyone around.
Dear Readers,
Alright, that’s more than enough for this post. Pretty sure you dozed off a few times while wading through all that poetic rambling. Feel free to close the page now – just make sure to stay incredibly jealous, okay?
Wishing you an awesome time until you receive our next post – coming sooner or later!
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin