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Back to Africa, Part 2: São Nicolau, Cabo Verde
São Nicolau, the 2nd island we’re visiting extensively. A pretty remote place, receiving just few tourists. Yet, a beautiful place to explore, many interesting hikes, and no danger of being overrun by organized hiking groups on their streamlined all-inclusive adventure trips.
São Nicolau, Cabo Verde
Ribeira Brava, 6th January
Early morning in Porto Novo. We’re on our way to the harbor – just a few minutes to drive. Then it’s time to say goodbye to Tuk Tuk, our rented Dacia Duster, and the island of Santo Antão.
Now, we’re on the ferry to Mindelo in São Vicente island, just 1h away.
Once we arrive, a stroll thru town, followed by a rather lazy day.
The next morning, we’re geared up for a new island and a new adventure: São Nicolau. Just 90km away as the crow flies, but nearly 500km by plane.
To start with, we catch a flight to the island of Sal. You know, the island where they nest all these European all-inclusive tourists to fatten them for a week or 2 before they’re sent back to their miserable lives of salary-slavery.
Our plane is ready for boarding. Surprisingly, it’s not Cap Verdean Airline we’re booked on. Nope, it’s CEM Air for the 30′ hop to Sal. Only later did we find out that this South African carrier has been ranked amongst the world’s worst airlines for the last couple of years.
Whatever. As we approach the desert-like island of Sal, the pilots only manage to land on the second attempt. They claim the wind for that – who knows.
A short layover in Sal, then we’re off to São Nicolau. Another 30′ flight, this time with Jump Air. Never heard of them? Neither had we. This Lituania-based charter company seems to own 2 planes – so should you need 1, it might still be available.
At least they manage to land on the 1st attempt.
Arriving at the airport the guy from the car rental already awaits us. Now, not a Tuk Tuk, but a real Prado. Looks like about the same age and the same condition as ours was.
A short drive to Ribeira Brava, the proud capital of São Nicolau.
Ribeira Brava: a small town nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains. Very quiet, a visit definitely doesn’t need more than half an hour.
Yet, not to forget, the incredible petrol station in Ribeira Brava.
In the evening, we’re looking for a restaurant. Nothing fancy – just a place to munch on something and to have a beer or 2. And this turns out to be a real pain in the ass. Despite our efforts, it takes us quite while to find a small eatery.
At least they serve beer. And fries with chicken. Strangely enough, chicken breast soaked in that industrial Thai Sauce you find in every cheap supermarket.
Tarrafal, 28th January
The next morning, we’re on our way to Tarrafal on the other side of the island. Just 1h away. A pretty spectacular, winding road along the coast before crossing the mountains and finally reaching the village.
Arriving in Tarrafal, we settle into our apartment – though, it could use some maintenance and a deep clean. But what the hell, it’s in the center of the village with a sea view.
Then, off to Carberinho, a famous rock formation along the shoreline.
Later, we drive on to Ribeira da Prata, located at the entrance of São Nicolau’s famous Vale da Fragata. The most picturesque part of the island.
We go as far as the road allows. Well, Prado makes it quite a way in. Then, a not too long hike to the hamlet of Fragotona.
Back to Tarrafal to enjoy the sunset …
… and a beer in the sunset.
Another day, another hike. Today, from the hamlet of Fajã de Cima over the Assomada de Mançebo to Cruzinha in the Vale da Fragata.
About 4h to sneak on a steep and winding mule track, crossing the pass, descending into the valley, then making the same way back.
We’ve probably seen all there is to see in Vale da Fragata.
So, the next morning, we head to São Nicolau’s desert-like western part. There’s just a small road connecting the few lost souls living in 1 or 2 tiny villages. Still, it’s the longest drive we can do on the island – 72 km.
After 60km, we reach the village of Juncalinho – somehow the last outpost of civilization.
From there, the cobblestone road turns into a gravel track with a few improved parts, winding thru the mountains to the hamlet of Carriçal on the other side of the island.
Then we reach Carriçal. The remnants of a tuna cannery, a few houses, and some fishing boats.
Back to Tarrafal to enjoy our last evening by the beach.
Ribeira Brava, 29th January
Just 1 day left in São Nicolau. Dedicated to exploring the island’s highest area: Parque Natural Monte Gordo.
We drive to the park entrance, with the last few km on a very steep, overgrown cobblestone road. So steep that Prado even needs low gears to climb.
Upon arrival, some nice administrative buildings – visibly never used. Probably funded by a donor trying to protect Cabo Verde’s few forests.
We follow a hiking trail around the northern part of Monte Gordo. Mostly winding thru dense forest, with occasional dragon trees. To reach some stunning viewpoints of the valleys far below.
Then, we head to Ribeira Brava.
Praia, 30th March
Next morning, it’s time to move on. We’re on our way to the last island of this trip – Fogo. Well, it’s just 200 km to this island and its huge vulcano as the crow flies. But, As the plane flies, it’s a 1 1/2 day journey with short visits on the islands of Sal and Santiago.
So, we’re on our 30′-flight to Sal. Once again with the Lithuanian subsidiary of Cabo Verde Airlines. Arriving in Sal, we have a 6h layover. What the hell – we decide to drive to Santa Maria – the island’s tourist hotspot. To conduct some scientific observations on all-inclusive tourists and, if possible, try to get something to munch on.
Arriving there, we quickly find a beachfront eatery. Looks quite inviting. Well, the menu, doesn’t really meet any expectations, the prices are about triple what we’ve seen in Cabo Verde so far. Whatever, we order some pizza. No problem, a few minutes later, we get it.
Just we even didn’t know pizza could be this disgusting. They made a kind of dough swimming pool, filled it with an instant tomato soup, and top the whole thing with a few olives. Yummie … but we cannot eat it.
Not the server’s fault, but we recommend that she shoots the cook immediately. Yeah, they seem really grateful for this valuable advise and offer us a 10% discount on our lunch.
Concerning our scientific study on all-inclusive tourists, we even come to some important conclusions:
Either they sit in bars and lounges, fattening themselves with an endless stream of all kinds of overprized, low-quality drinks to accelerate their fattening, or they nap on the beach to get a beautiful sunburn. Finally a 3rd category sneaks thru the town’s alleys in constant search for souvenirs from Senegal or China for Auntie Julie and Uncle Theodore. As they love their relative so much, of course, they’re more than ready to pay any prize for this stuff.
Interesting results, aren’t they?
Time to grab a taxi back to the airport. We’ve seen enough of Sal. At least now we know we won’t fall in love with this island.
Whatever, in the evening, the plane to Praia awaits us. Now with Cabo Verde Airline’s South African subsidiary. Surely you remember, the guys who need 2 attempts to land.
Another 30′ flight to Cabo Verde’s proud capital, a really expensive taxi to town, and we’re done.
Now we really need something to munch on. Next to our sleepery, we find a nice street-side restaurant with live music – Sodade at its best. And pretty good food. What more could we need.
Esteemed reader,
We sincerely apologize, but that’s it for this post. After this, you’ll surely need some sleep and sweet dreams of Cabo Verde, and tomorrow, you’ll feel your jealousy creeping in again. Promised.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin