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Thru Southeast Europe, Part 4: Transylvania to Bucharest
The trip thru Transylvania’s heartland. The fascinating towns of Sibiu, Brasov and a real Disneyland – Bran Castle. Then on to Bucharest, Romania’s grim capital.
Sibiu 2 Koshov
Sibiu, 27th September
We’re in Sibiu. Somehow the capital of Romania’s Transylvania – and the definitive tourist hub in the country. No wonder, it’s said to be the most beautiful town, with the largest squares and the widest selection of eateries.
But let’s see what we’ll discover.
To reach the huge Piata Mare, we sneak along a street lined with Gothic buildings. Clearly, the influence of US-induced prudery hasn’t yet sweeped into the local’s way of life. Just imagine the effort it would take to properly dress all these smart stone ladies decorating the house entrances.
Then, at Piata Mare true – it’s definitely enormous, lined with impressive buildings, and the home to a somehow strange statue. It’s surely a masterpiece of art. But still, not easy to interpret.
A visit to the Baroque Sfânta Treime Church. Maybe a bit too much of everything.
Then we’re already on the adjacent Piata Albert Huet with the massive Catedrala Evanghelică Sfânta Maria. Doesn’t really feel like a square. The dominance of the church built right in the middle is just too great.
From the square, several stairs lead down to the Lower Town, where ordinary people had to survive during the town’s prime time.
In the afternoon, a visit to the Orthodox Church, followed by a climb up the Clock Tower to finally get an overview of the city.
Sibiu’s last square, Piata Mica, isn’t really visible at the moment. They’ve turned it into a stage for their music festival.
Time to grab a bite. Sure, there are 100s of eateries in Sibiu, but most of them serve pretty ugly tourist fare. Not exactly the gourmet meal we deserve.
Finally, a small watering hole cum eatery saves the day. They serve excellent ribs with even better IPA.
Brasov, 29th September
No question, Sibiu is the most famous place to visit in Romania. Still, the most visited spot in the country remains Bran Castle. The place where they somehow pretend Count Dracula might have lived. Thus, the ultimate hub for Insta-addiced folks to show off their followers and auntie Judy their bravery by visiting the place where the vamps are still alive.
So, this morning we’re on the backroads heading to this incredible place. Just a short drive, but pretty bad roads.
When we arrive, we quickly settle into the nearby campsite. True, it’s a rather rundown, filthy place – but the only 1 close to Bran Castle.
Anyway, we know that everybody discourages a visit to the castle. It’s well known that there are just masses of tourists and nothing special to see.
Of course, we’re convinced they’re right. We shouldn’t go. Still, we might regret it forever if we don’t visit Bran Castle. Who knows?
Finding our way to the entrance isn’t difficult. We just follow the crowds. The last few 100m lined with souvenir stalls selling every piece of chunk China’s industry has ever produced. Priced just a few times higher than if you ordered online from alibaba.
Of course, they also have a few special offers too. For the brave 1s – get a vamp’s bite, today on a special: 3 bites for the price of 2. For the more adventurous 1s – bite like a vamp. The priciest choice – bite a real virgin (rarely available due to low stock). Or, cheaper – bite your mother-in-law (perfect for those traveling with their partner’s mom).
Then we finally reach the ticket booth, hand over a pretty large amount to their pockets, and enter the castle. Let the vamp adventure begin.
Of course, we’re not the only 1s. It feels a bit like crossing Kolkatta’s Howrah Brigde during rush hour. Interesting to observe how smart ladies with pouty lips try to get their ultimate insta pic. Others even try to make short movies with their cosmetically optimized faces in the foreground. How nice to observe all this energy these folks develop.
And the castle? it looks like a Disney movie set for Snow White.
That’s it.
The next morning, it’s constantly raining and cold. All day long.
We’re heading to Brașov, just a few km to the north.
Despite the awful weather, we explore the town’s colorful streets and the massive Black Church.
At least until our clothes are completely soaked with water.
Inside, the well-known Black Church is quite bare and not particularly interesting. Despite their efforts to educate poor sinners on how to behave properly. No idea, how well that works today.
Finally, a quick look at the town’s narrowest alley before heading back for an extended clothes-drying session.
Bucharest, 1st October
The next morning, it’s still pouring. But no worries – the weather forecast isn’t too bad for the afternoon.
We’re on our way to Bucharest, Romania’s proud capital.
About 170 km to drive, partly thru a mountain range.
On the way, a short stop at the the Doftana Prison. The place which was the home of former dictator Ceaușescu for some time before he became eligible for his villa in Bucharest (more about that later).
Nowadays, the prison has closed its doors, the buildings are dilapidated, and you’re no longer permited to visit.
Of course, during Ceaușescu’s reign every schoolkid had to visit the place.
As we approch Bucharest, we drive for km thru quite grim suburbs. The streets lined with endless apartment blocks, all looking the same – neglected, dilapidated, and in urgent need of restoration. A legacy of Ceaușescu, who tried to provide everybody with a modern, socialist home.
In the center of Bucharest, the Park4Night app suggests the perfect spot to enjoy chilled van life. When we get there, it turns out to be a lousy, dirty parking lot in the backyard of some rundown houses. Barely any cars, no campers. And an unfriendly watchman asking for more per night than we’ve ever paid on a campsite.
We immediately turn around, and head to nearby sleepery where we can park the van right in front of their entrance. Problem solved.
Then, we take a look at Bucharest’s old town. Well, there’s not much left. Most of it was destroyed to make space for Ceaușescu’s People’s Palace. And the remaining historic houses were left to decay. Only recently has a restoration program started to bring back the old town’s former glory. Despite the efforts, the area still feels like lacking a concept for development. Right now, it’s mostly a cheap party zone, full of watering holes, miserable restaurants, and other essential offers that keep nightlife lively’n’juicy.
If you’re ever in need of the worst, most unappetizing dinner you’ve ever had, just head to one of those eateries in the old town. They definitely won’t disappoint!
Bucharest is 1 of the very few capitals in the world without any real sights – probably along with Kinshasa in the DRC.
But there are 2 exceptions: Ceaușescu’s villa and the People’s Palace. So today, we’re focusing on those.
A short metro ride brings us to the cozy house Ceaușescu lived in during his reign.
Of course, you can only visit this important relict of communist splendour on a guided tour. After covering your shoes with plastic bags, you’re allowed to enter the house. 1st, the guide/watchdog lays out the rules’n’regulations for the visit: always stay with the group – don’t even think about slipping out of the watchdog’s control. Don’t touch anything, don’t spit on the floor, don’t use any of Ceaușescu’s bathrooms, and most importantly, don’t even consider taking any pictures inside the villa. To be clear, offenders will be immediately deported to the villa’s cellar, where Ceaușescu’s former torture master will gladly get back to work.
So, no pics. If you’re curious about how this extravaganza of bad taste looks, here’s a link.
It seems like the rules used to be a bit more flexible some time ago.
On the other side, it’s perfectly fine to take pictures from outside and of Ceaușescu’s gallery of honor (horror), where you can see him alongside with all sorts of fellow dictators.
After an hour, we’ve seen all we’re allowed to see. Now we’re on our way back to grim ordinary life in Bucharest and the city center.
On the way, we stop at Revolution Square. The place where Ceaușescu held his last speech in 1989, shortly before he was shot by his beloved people.
In the afternoon, a visit to Bucharest’s 2nd attraction – the People’s Palast.
Ceaușescu planned to build the world’s biggest administrative building to prove his love for his people and showcase the power of his regime to the world. A building even bigger than North Korea’s Kim Jong-un’s Palace of Culture. Can you imagine?
He started construction in 1984, using a significant portion of public funds to finance it. But who cares if it’s for the sake of his people – even with hunger crises in Romania and constant economic decline. Until his unexpected execution in 1989, he completed 70% of the construction and spent 1.7 billion dollars on it.
After the revolution it takes the new government another 10 years to complete construcion, and another 1.3 billion. No wonder, Romania had some troubles to recover from Ceaușescu’s rule.
Today it’s the seat of the Parliament, hosting national and international conferences, parties for the well-heeled, and filled with many empty offices. And a major attraction for visitors wanting to experience the scale of communist gigantism.
Koshov, 2nd October
The next morning – our last 1 in Romania. In a country that has far exceeded our expectations and has so much more to offer than we ever imagined.
We’re on our way to Bulgaria. The border just a few km south of Bucharest. There, the Romanian immigration checks carefully to see if we have any unpaid traffic fines, while the Bulgy side doesn’t care about anything.
Next, we head to the tiny village of Koshov. There’s a nice campsite and the famous Ivanov Rock Church nearby.
So, guys, that’s it for now. Thanx for reading all this poetry – we know you have better to do than waste time with our posts. Whatever, ignore that and wait impatiently (and jealous) for the next 1. Coming soon.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin