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Spectacular - Argentina's Puna
Argentina’s Andean highland – the Puna – a fascinating landscape in the north of the country. Remote, wild, and often a little bit complicated to visit. More about it in this post.
Santa Maria 2 Chilecito
El Peñon, 7th April
We’re in Santa Maria. No reason to stay more than a night.
So, we head to the tiny village of El Peñon. About 270km to drive on a winding road that crosses past 4000m to reach Catamarca’s Puna. An arid highland along the border with Chile. And what a spectacular landscape!
For sure, London, Paris, or Tokyo are definitely more sophisticated spots than El Peñon. However, the village boasts with a main road lined with some houses on each side, a handful of guesthouses, and even a comedor, or 2. Sure, no paved roads, but running water, electricity, and 450 lost souls making their homes there. What more could you ask for in El Peñon?
After some searching, we discover a reasonable sleepery. Of course, the room has a certain potential for improvement. But there’s an attached watering hole’n’eatery. What more could you ask for in El Peñon?
El Penõn serves as the gateway to some captivating spots in the Puna. Places reachable only via some pretty rough gravel roads. Well, we vividly recall Prado’s recent antics, expressing dissatisfaction with its Chinese spare parts. The many hours we spent navigating extremely slowly and cautiously a few days ago due to a broken bolt – a lousy Chinese 1. Who knows how many more of these Chinese bolts are holding Prado together?
Considering all this, we opt to book a tour for tomorrow and give Prado a well-deserved rest at our sleepery.
Antofagasta de la Sierra, 9th April
A little after 8 am, we’re picked up for our visit to the famous Campo de Piedra Pomez. A vast area filled with pumice formations formed by volcanic activity. Resembling petrified waves stretching for more than 25km.
On thru the lava field of Volcán Carachi Pampa to the synonymous lagoon. A rough gravel road at its worst.
And that’s the tour. 3h with a guide who obviously didn’t have much time or interest in doing his job. Anyway, it’s a beautiful place – and Prado is definitely happy that we didn’t stress some of his Chinese bolts again.
Then we’re on our way to Antofagasta de la Sierra. About a 1h drive, covering 70km. All best asphalt.
Antofagasta in the Puna – you can’t compare it to Antofagasta in Chile or New York. Nonetheless, it’s a sizable city compared to El Peñon. Visibly, the inhabitants are investing quite significantly to imbue the place with a distinct urban vibe.
In the afternoon, we’re busy organizing our next tour.
Well, in Antofagasta, there are no places to book a tour. Instead, there’s the municipal excursion coordination office. They compile lists with everyone interested in a tour. Once they have 4 people planning for the same excursion, they contact them along with a potential guide ready to drive. This gives the clients the opportunity to coordinate with the other participants and the driver before departing the next morning.
Of course, a complicated and time-consuming procedure. Nevertheless, in the evening we have our group of 4 people, and everyone agreed with the driver on everything. Whatever – how easy are visits without a tour.
And at night? You don’t go to the theater, the opera, or clubbing in Antofagasta. No, everybody simply gathers at the 1 and only eatery to munch on something and have a few beers, El Chuy. Great, isn’t it?
The next morning at 8a.m. Everybody arrived, everybody ready for the great 250km circuit to the isolated Salar de Antofalla near the border with Chile. The longest salt lake in the Andes.
To reach the area, we climb a pass of 4600m, then …
… descend again to the Salar at 3500m. There, we make our way to the nearby Laguna Verde. Incredibly blue water.
Next stop: tiny Antofalla. A lost place next to the Salar. Seems like the folks here need a TV to survive.
Then, along the salt lake on a terribly bad road. Reaching the Ojos de Campo.
Finally, we cross the Sierra again on our way back to Antofagasta.
Late afternoon we’re back in Antofagasta.
Now, the question is: Is it worth the 10-hour journey covering 250 kilometers, mostly on pretty rough roads?
We definitely think it is. A unique opportunity to see these fantastic landscapes in the Puna. Well, we have to admit, this time we were lucky with the driver/guide, and the travel buddies, Pilar and Tomas, originating from Rosario were really nice guys.
Time for a beer. In the same eatery we were yesterday.
Fiambalá, 11th April
The next morning, we have to bid farewell to Antofagasta and the Puna.
We’re on our way to Belén. About 250km and 5h to drive.
Belén. A kind of hub for the region. But not exactly a thrilling destination. Just alright to spend a night.
Well, maybe it’s just the cloudy weather. Those everlasting clouds seem to follow us everywhere to the east of the Andes.
The next morning, we hit the road again, heading to Fiambalá. About 200km away.
Still on Ruta 40. And for those who can’t get enough of driving and want to go all the way to the southern tip of this route, there are just 4044km left to conquer.
A few km before reaching Fiambalá, we leave Ruta 40 and follow the Ruta del Adobe. This road winds thru several villages with adobe houses, and notably features some famous adobe churches. Particularly the small church in El Puesto.
Then to the villages of Anillaco and La Falda to see some more of the same.
We reach Fiambalá in the early afternoon. Time for a hike in Cañon del Inca about 20km outside town.
Back to Fiambalá. To the 1 and only lively restaurant in town. To munch on the usual fare you find at places like this: Milanesa – breaded veal escalope. And, of course, a few beers to wash it all down.
Cortaderas, 12th April
The next morning. We’re back on our way to Argentina’s Puna. To Paso San Francisco, about 200km away, where we’ll reach the pass at the Chilean border.
Along the famous Ruta de los Seismiles – the road of the 6000s. A journey through vibrant geological formations, ascending into the highlands and passing by several peaks towering well above 6000 meters, such as Incahuasi, El Muerte, and San Francisco among others.
About 20km before reaching the pass, the Argies have set up a border control. Understandably, they don’t fancy staying at Paso San Francisco at 4750m. Here, it’s at a more reasonable elevation of 4300m.
Even if we insist that we don’t plan to enter Chilean territory, we still have to go thru the full procedure – migration and customs. Whatever, 1/2h later, we’re back on the road again. And even with the option to enter Chile because their immigration is 100km away.
The only constraint is time. We only have 2h left until the Argy border control closes. And we’re not too keen on spending the night in the cold at this altitude.
So, we quickly drive on. Well, as fast as Prado can go at this altitude. It’s no problem, but takes some effort for a real senior car.
Finally, we reach the pass. Since there’s still plenty of time left, we decide to continue for another 20km into Chile. To have a look at the famous Laguna Verde.
Approaching Laguna Verde, we realize that we urgently need to drive back. Or else, the border will be closed.
It takes another 30′ to officially enter Argentina. And it’s our opportunity to learn that the border actually closes 1h later than we thought.
Whatever. We drive for another 80 km to reach a place called Cortaderas. A spot in the middle of nowhere. But with a rather big hotel. Indeed, a slightly weird place, but a sleepery at a reasonable 3500m altitude. Even if it’s a little bit rundown.
We stay there for the night. Knowing very well that by tomorrow noon we have to be back in the lowlands east of the Cordillera. A huge storm is announced. With a significant drop in temperatures and snow expected in the higher altitudes. Chile has already closed all passes crossing the Andes this afternoon. So, we know what to expect.
Chilecito, 13th April
The next morning, it’s pretty cold. So, it’s evident we have to wait until the sun heats up Prado’s engine a little bit before we can move on.
By 10 am, we try to start the engine. No chance – everything is still chilly cold. Still, the clouds of the storm front are approaching steadily. Finally, we decide to try our luck with lukewarm water on the diesel filter. Our coffeemaker has to work a bit, then we carefully mix the water to the right temperature, and try to warm up the filter with it. And – believe it or not – it works. Prado’s engine starts, even without a puff of white smoke.
Quickly we leave Cortaderas and the Puna behind. We’re on our way to the small town of Chilecito, about 300km to drive.
Arriving there in the afternoon, it’s pretty cold and sizzling. Exactly the weather we don’t like. And the forecast tells us that it will remain the same for the next couple of days.
Dear All,
Please accept that enough is enough. So, we put an end to this post.
If you’ve carefully read the whole thing up to here, we really appreciate your patience.
So, we bid you goodbye until the next post is released. Soon. In the meantime, take your chance remain jealous, and wait impatiently for the next 1.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin