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Finally, in Rio
Our journey along Brazil’s Costa Verde to finally reach Rio de Janeiro. A detour to Brazil’s most kitschy village, Campos de Jordão. A visit to a car doctor for Prado in Paraty, and finally Rio.
Ilhabela 2 Rio de Janeiro
Campos do Jordão, 19th February
After spending a few days on Ilhabela, we need a change from beaches and sandflies.
What could be more fitting than a cool mountain village? Fortunately, we heard about Campos do Jordão. It’s not the kind of place you easily stumble upon in guidebooks or blogs of people visiting Brazil for 10 days. It seems like an affair mainly for the locals. So, let’s give it a chance.
We’re back on the ferry to São Sebastião on the mainland. Then heading along the coast to Ubatuba, before climbing up the escarpment to finally reach Campos de Jordão. The ferry ride is quick. Since it’s a Sunday morning, it’s nearly empty. Then the roads are quite narrow and winding. Sometimes, a lot of traffic when approaching beaches. Finally, it takes us nearly 6h to cover the 230km.
Maybe just a small note about Brazi beaches on a Sunday. No need to worry that you’re the only 1. Definitely not. Your challenge might be finding a space for your camping chair and umbrella. You may have to squeeze in the midst of 1000s of other umbrella-tooting, beer-drinking folks, rowdy kids, and pushy vendors doing their best to sell you some gourmet skewers they’re grilling directly in front of you. But once you’ve solved all these minor issues and gotten used to the constant smoke of charcoal from the skewer vendors, you’ll surely have a beautiful day at the beach.
In Ubatuba, finally, the road turns inland. Ascending the escarpment. In just a few km, Prado gained more than 1000m in altitude. Navigating a steep’n’winding road.
Still, around 100km remain until we reach Campos do Jordão.
Along the way, a stop in São Luiz do Paraitinga. A quaint village with a charming historical center. True, it’s certainly small, but still worth a short visit.
Finally, we arrive in Campos de Jordão. Brazil’s highest village. The place where 1000s of people flock during winter to experience snow. A place 200% oriented towards tourism. And its center is probably 1 of the quirkiest places you can imagine. Kitsch as kitsch can be. Achieving more kitsch would be quite challenging. But the locals love it.
To truly experience it in all its beauty, you have to visit after dark.
And for all enthusiasts of cold weather, have a look at the signboard in the middle of the pic on the left side: 14° C!!!
Certainly, the same applies for food’n’drinks: sausages’n’beer. Alternatively, there’s what they call a Sequencia de Fondue: Cheese-Meat-Chocolate Fondue.
Next morning. Time for something else. We need a hike.
About 25km to the north, there’s the area’s landmark: Pedra do Baú. An inselberg rising high above the dense forest.
Back to the parking lot, we head for another trail. Well, not really a trail, just a few 100m on a ridge. And there, we get the full panorama of Pedra do Baú. Probably, that’s the hike we’ve been looking for.
Paraty, 24th February
We’re heading on. Back to the sea, to Paraty. This small colonial town, famous for its cobblestone streets and its white houses with colorful windows.
So, another steep and winding road down the escarpment.
On the way, Prado starts crying for a doctor. On the dashboard, the constant beautiful warning light of the battery. Indeed, the battery level is pretty low. So, time to turn off the headlights, no more AC, and get down to Paraty as quickly as possible.
Arriving there, we quickly head for a sleepery, then on to search for a mechanic.
By chance, we find 1 very quickly. He confirms our fears that there’s a problem with the alternator. Still, he has no time to look into the issue. He recommends a true specialist for this kind of repair.
Arriving at the indicated site, we only find a very small’n’archaic workshop doing some repairs at the roadside. Quickly, it becomes clear that the guy can’t help us.
The final and last mechanic we know – the 1 mentioned in IOverlander. He finally takes the time to analyze the problem.
After more than an hour of dismantling the engine to get the alternator out, he disassembles it to find the problem. Quickly, it becomes clear that there’s not just 1 problem. The whole thing just started falling apart.
So far, the quality of our Chinese alternator that was installed in Belize about 3 years ago.
Whatever, we need a new 1. After some search, the mechanic finds the correct model. However, it’s currently with a supplier somewhere in Southern Brazil. Well, the order should arrive within a few days.
For us, time to recover from our journey – and to enjoy Paraty.
The small town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is undoubtedly like a living museum. Looking incredibly picturesque at dawn and night, especially after rain when the lights and houses reflect in the water on the cobblestone streets.
Of course, this also attracts masses of tourists. Consequently, most houses are nowadays converted into pousadas, restaurants, or expensive boutiques. And not to forget all the shops selling a huge variety of Cachaça. This stuff you need to prepare a Caipirinha.
Ok, we’ll have a day or 2 to explore. Let’s kick things off today with a beer.
It’s Friday afternoon. 3 days after we left Prado with the mechanic. We send a WhatsApp to check if the ordered alternator has finally arrived. Of course, none of the mechanic’s numbers work.
Ok, time for a stroll thru the ugly modern part of Paraty. Upon arriving at the workshop, we can’t believe it. The guy can give us even a working phone number, and the spare has arrived. A brand new Chinese alternator. It even fits in.
Just a few hours of work to reassemble Prado – and at 8 pm, we bring the car back to life. Honestly, we were doubting if the work would be done within this week. But miraculously, wonders happen in Brazil.
Time for another beer.
The next morning: the chance to take Prado for a test drive. Just to make sure some bolts the mechanics eventually lost in the dark last night, aren’t too crucial.
So, we’re on the way to Trinidade. A small village on the beach about 25km away.
Ages ago, the place was firmly dominated by a hippie colony. Nowadays, not much recalls those times. At least during the weekends, it’s in the hands of Brazi day-trippers visiting the beaches, having lunch, and disappearing to wherever they’re coming from.
Of course, not all beaches are crowded like the 1 on the left. Even on a weekend.
And the village? Optimized to cater to the tourists’ needs.
Rio de Janeiro, 26th February
We’re on the way to Rio. Just 250km and a 4-h drive ahead. A winding road along Brazil’s Costa Verde. A few cool viewpoints, but for most of the time, the coast stays tucked away behind the trees flanking the road.
We’re in the part of Brazil where they’re really keen to show how advanced they are with their high-tech. They even installed an automatic toll system. A system making it so much easier for everybody to pay road tolls. Your license plate gets automatically registered, giving you a 15 day window to remember their website where you can eventually settle the due amount. And to stay clear of hefty penalties. Easy, isn’t it?
A few days later we attempt to log in to the site. No problem. We just have to register with grandma’s birthday, your mother’s favorite dish, the exact time you had breakfast on 4th January 2024, etc. You know, the typical stuff administrators need to know to collect money. Then you have to enter your license plate. Of course, doesn’t work, it only accepts Brazi plates. The most important: your CPF. You know that miraculous code every Brazi gets at birth to survive the country’s bureaucratic jungle. Naturally, you don’t have that. Consequently, we can’t pay, and chances are, they can’t even identify us.
On the way, a quick stop to admire Brazil’s real thing – their nuclear power plant in Angra. True, it’s not the most cutting-edge model. Still, it works. Whatever, we drive on.
Early afternoon we arrive in Barra da Tijuca. Some 20km from Rio’s city center. The place we can easily hop into Rio using the metro or Uber.
The next morning. We’re all set to explore Rio. An Uber to the cable car station heading up to Pão de Açúcar. Rio’s famous Sugar Loaf.
Weather seems promising, and at the station, only a handful of people are queueing up. So, we’re on our way up in no time.
At the 1st station, Morro da Urca, time to admire the view.
Of course, there’s also the ultimate Insta hotspot for the many real or wannabee beauties sneaking around.
Surely, you know weather can change quickly in the mountains. Whether they’re high up or as low as Pão de Açúcar.
Well, we’re ready to head to the top. Even if it means going into the thickest clouds.
Well, after some time, weather even cleared up – at least a little bit.
So far our visit to Pão de Açúcar. Maybe not the perfect day to admire the view. But probably exactly what we can expect this time of the year.
Heading on to 1 of Rio’s most beloved sight: Escadaria Selarón. This staircase leading up to the Santa Teresia District has undergone significant beautification since the 90ies by the Chilean artist Selarón. And the enhancement work is still ongoing today.
Nowadays, a bustling tourist hotspot. 1 of Rio’s ultimate Insta spots. Therefore, the place where you’ll queue up for over 1h to take your ultimate selfie. But the pic will be so beautiful.
Later we’re sneaking on toward the city center. Just below the Escadaria, some nice murals.
On the way a glance at the famous Arcos de Lapa and the modernistic cathedral. The latter may not necessarily be counted among the highlights of architecture.
Then, heading thru the central streets of Rio. A mix of historic buildings, often in desperate need of repair, and constructions from the 60s or 70s crying out even more for maintenance.
We take a look at Real Gabinete Português de Leitura. Rio’s well-known Portuguese library.
Checking out Igreja de São Francisco de Paula. Hey, Mexicanos, you could learn from the builders of this church.
It’s lunchtime. Of course, if in Rio’s center, you’ve got to go to Confeitaria Colombo. The ultimate place for indulging in something sweet. Arriving there, we quickly realize that we have to queue up for at least 2h to snag a table.
So, we have to be happy with a Chocolate Sunday at McDonald’s. What a shame.
Then we come across a pretty official-looking building. No idea what it is. Still, Monika insists on having a closer look at it. A few minutes later we’re having a free tour thru Brazil’s former parliament, and Rio’s current legislative building. The Palácio Tiradentes.
Later on, we hop on the metro heading back to Barra da Tijuca. It got simply too hot’n’humid. So, we decide to put off our visit until tomorrow – and the tales about that, and much more in the next post.
Dear all, thanx for patiently going thru this post, stay jealous, and eagerly await the next release.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin