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On the Way to the Highlands of Northern Argentina
The journey from Salta to the Valley of Calchaquíes. To the villages of Cachi and Cafayate. Then on to Santa Maria – the gateway to Argentina’s Puna.
Salta 2 Santa Maria
Salta, 2nd April
Salta: the last genuine town before venturing into the highlands of northern Argentina. Sure, there are a couple of historic buildings scattered around the Plaza de 9 de Julio and on a few side streets. However, there’s not really much to see.
The Argies still commemorate their victims of the Falkland War. Still, the city of Salta goes even further by turning it into a significant event including the town’s celebrities, some war veterans, incredible military pomp, and a lot of children aimed to become brave defenders of the nation.
The impression somehow lingers that they forgot to tell their citizens who triggered the war in 1982.
Cachi, 3rd April
1 afternoon in Salta is definitely enough. So, we drive on to Cachi. A small village with a little more than 2000 lost souls nestled high up in the Valle Calchaquies. And 1 of the places to visit in the area.
A drive of about 3h, driving through the Cuesta del Obispo and climbing the steep escarpment.
We arrive in Cachi just in time to munch on something.
Then, sightseeing. Well, it only takes a few minutes to see everything and check out some incredibly overpriced local wines. It’s such a small place.
Cafayate, 5th April
The next morning, we’re ready to drive on. It’s just 160km to Cafayate on Ruta 40. Still, it will take some time to get there. It’s a gravel road well known for its poor maintenance. So, a pleasure for Prado, some work for us.
At first, we simply follow Valle Calchaquíes. It’s not too fascinating – very wide valley, sparsely populated with a few lousy villages along the way.
After a while, we reach Molinos. 1 of the largest villages along the way, with a certain ambition to become a tourist hotspot.
We take a look around. Just to emphasize how far away they are from competing for tourists with Rio or Paris.
Onward to Cafayate. The landscape becomes wilder and more colorful as we approach the famous Quebrada de las Flechas.
Suddenly, Prado starts to complain loudly about how it’s being treated.
Quickly, we realize that the engine temperature is much too high and the newly replaced alternator is not charging anymore.
For the alternator, we think we know what happened: Chinese quality isn’t suited for this rough road. Regarding the temperature – could be the water pump, a belt, low coolant, the radiator, or something else. Who knows.
We take a look. Can’t really see what’s happened since we don’t want to stop the engine. There’s just a strange noise.
Finally, we drive on. Very slowly, stopping before and after each small ascent. Having a lot of time to enjoy the beautiful landscape of the Quebrada.
In the late afternoon, we finally arrive in Cafayate. Naturally, we head straight for a car doctor – the 1 mentioned in IOverlander.
Fortunately, the mechanic is ready to take a look at Prado’s engine. It quickly becomes clear that there’s only a broken bolt fixing the alternator. As a result, the belt became loose and didn’t turn the alternator and the water pump.
3h later, Prado is back to life. And we’re 30,000 Pesos (about $30) lighter in the wallet. Pretty cheap for 3h of work.
Time for a huge beer.
The next morning. We need an opportunity to test Prado. To see if the problem is definitely solved.
So, a short drive to explore the famous Quebrada de las Conchas. An extremely colorful landscape thru the mountains along the road to Salta.
To start, we take the Los Colorados Hike into a side valley. You can walk for hours or just 10′. We sneak thru this bizarre landscape for about 2h.
Then we continue driving. Along the way, a few pretty spectacular viewpoints.
Then another hike: Sendero los Estratos. Leading into an even more colorful area.
Back to Cafayate to exchange some dollars. Here, the pharmacy at the main plaza serves as the money exchange hub.
Then it’s time to enjoy Cafayate’s rather limited nightlife.
Santa Maria, 6th April
The next morning, we’re on our way to Santa Maria. Only about 80 km to drive.
Along the way, we stop to visit the pre-Columbian ruins of Quilmes. Unfortunately, they’re not too carefully restored.
Shortly later, we arrive in Santa Maria. A rather nondescript town. A place where you can somehow feel the decline of Argentina’s living standard.
Still, it’s ok to spend the night.
Well, guys, that’s all for today. Enough’s enough. Still remain jealous, there’s another post coming soon. About 1 of the most spectacular landscape we’ve ever visited.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin