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Brazil's South Coast'n'the Remnants of the German Heritage
Visiting the canyons in Santa Catarina Province with their trails. Along the coast during high season and exploring some peculiar places established long time ago by German immigrants.
Bom Jardim 2 Curitiba
Cambará do Sul, 4th February
We’re in Bom Jardim da Serra. Despite its fantastic name, it’s not comparable to London, Paris, or Tokyo. Instead, Timbuktu might be more fitting.
A few lousy houses, the home of a few 100 lost souls, a church constructed from corrugated sheets, and a scattering of forgotten X-mas decorations in front of it.
The next morning, we’re heading to Cambará do Sul. The gateway to the famous Parque Nacional Aparados da Serra. The spot to admire Brazil’s deepest canyon.
We follow the road eastwards. To reach a viewpoint a few kms outside Bom Jardim. Here, the Serra do Rio do Rastro plunges from over 1400m to sea level. Brazil’s greatest mountain pass – a fascinating road to drive.
Of course, there are a few hiking trails right on the edge. Unfortunately, they manage access the Brazi way: huge gates, hefty entrance fees, and, best of all, they’re even closed. So, no chance to explore them.
Down by the sea, we enjoy a nice stretch of 4-lane highway. Unfortunately, only for a few km.
Then we turn inland again, towards Cambará do Sul high up in the mountains. The road: gravel with a lot of potential for improvement. Surely, the Brazi government is aware of this. So, should you drive this road in 20, or 25 years, probably it will be paved. Still, it seems Prado reminisces about its youth on this road.
Cambará do Sul: a relatively small village. In the center many posadas, some watering holes cum eateries, shops, and most importantly an Insta-point in front of the church.
Luckily, we find a really nice sleepery just in the middle of all: Posada Toscana Cambará with lovely and very helpful owners.
Fortunately, we discover Antonio’s Serra Bar. A pretty cool watering hole. Time for a beer and to book the entrance tickets for the national park. Quite pricey. Both, beer and entrance fees.
Early next morning, we’re on the way to Cânion Itaimbezinho. Said to be the deepest 1 in Brazil.
On the way, a road sign indicates that we’re not too far off. Nevertheless, considering the entrance fee we paid, perhaps they could invest a little money to improve their signboard. Well, maybe it’s just a leftover from the former President’s politics. Who knows.
At the park entrance, we learn that our tickets are valid for 7 days. They just forgot to mention it on their website. Nice guys.
Then we’re on the trails heading to the different viewpoints. Just a few km, but mostly in the burning sun.
Another day, another hike in the national park. This time to Cânion Fortaleza, at the escarpment to the coastal lowlands.
Blumenau, 8th February
Time to drive back to the heat on Brazil’s Atlantic Coast. So, we’re on the way to Praia do Rosa. Said to have the most beautiful beach in the south. Let’s see.
To change a bit and to be kind to Prado’s shock absorbers, we’re driving the slightly longer, but paved road to the coast.
Arriving there, of course, we have to admire this famous beach. But first, we need to climb the hill in front of it.
Well, the beach looks quite ok, not like on a Thai island or the Maldives, but comparable to what you get in the Mediterranean.
Nevertheless, we’re quite pleasantly surprised, that they don’t spoil the beach with rows of deck chairs that you have to rent for a price higher than your sleepery. In Brazil, the ultimate beach comfort is everybody’s plastic camping chair and a sunshade.
Certainly, we know it’s high season. So, we don’t expect to be alone. Nevertheless, we didn’t anticipate seeing each’n’every Brazi here.
And Praia do Rosa at night? Well, it’s full of opportunities to use your credit card.
The next morning, we’re heading to Ilha de Santa Catarina. On the western side, famous Florianopolis, and on the eastern side the Atlantic unfolds with endless beaches. According to our travel guide, everybody’s paradise. Must definitely be the ultimate dream of a beach holiday.
It’s just a short drive. A bridge connects to the island. We bypass Florianopolis on the way to Campeche Beach. The longest 1 on the Island. Arriving there, there’s a slight astonishment. Beyond the beach, Campeche village stretches for many km. It all looks a bit like a slightly rundown residential area. With a few guest houses and apartments scattered in between. As for the beach – it’s just that – a beach. Nothing extraordinary.
Well, we drive southwards. To Praia Armaçâo. Said to be a pretty unspoilt fishing village with an end-of-the-world feeling. It might all be true. However, for a day or 2 at the beach, we really don’t need the beautiful sand dotted with rotten fish and the corresponding odor.
To ease our slightly more than slight frustration, we have to accept that Ilha de Santa Catarina and us will never be best friends. So better for us to move on to another place.
Thus, we’re on the way to Blumenau. About 250km, 3-hour drive. Along the route, we bypass Brazilian-famous Balneário Camboriú. A sort of urban beach resort where you can jump directly from your room in a skyscraper into the sea.
Late afternoon, we arrive in Blumenau. Nowadays a town with more than 350,000 souls. Founded in the mid-19th century by German migrants. Today the town center mainly reflects the Brazi’s imagination of what Germany might be.
Of course, a few historic buildings are silently decaying in some corners of the center. However, the exceptional German architectural highlights you admire on the main road (formerly Wurststrasse / Sausage Street) are newly built. Probably according to the plans of Disney Corporation.
And, just in case, if you need another load of kitsch, even kitschier than anything else in this area, head to Vila Germânica. A place especially built for Blumenau’s Oktoberfest. You’ll not be disappointed
And in the evening. Don’t be afraid of Blumenau’s food scene. You don’t need to go for hearty German cuisine, Brazi style. So, no reason to go to McDonald’s as an alternative. Quite a few great watering holes’n’eateries are serving normal fare.
Joinville, 9th February
The next morning, we’re on the way to Joinville. Just a mere 100 km drive. Of course, we don’t go there for the town’s breathtaking beauty or any particularly intriguing experiences it offers. No, it’s solely because the 4-day carnival weekend is approaching. The most foolish time of the year – and every overlander’s nightmare. So, we have to concentrate on places off the beaten path for the Brazis.
After that, we’re off to Sâo Francisco do Sul. 1 of the oldest Portuguese settlements on the Atlantic coast. Nowadays, an important container port. But the place still maintains a well-preserved historic center.
Surprisingly, there are hardly any tourists visiting the place. Perhaps it’s just too hot to sneak around at 43°.
Nevertheless, even in this sleepy place, visibly something is about to unfold. It appears that even the local carnival princess has to be revitalized. At least for an Insta-shooting.
Curtitiba, 10th February
It’s Saturday, 10th February. The kickoff for Brazil’s great carnival holidays. 5 glorious days off. 5 days offering the chance to escape to the beach, and to avoid carnival craziness at home. The time when each’n’every Brazi has to to crave his paradise to chill for a few days. A period even more hectic than Easter weekend in Europe, Tabaski in Senegal, or New Year in South Africa.
For us, the moment to hide for a few days in a bigger city. Perhaps 1 where we can still soak in some carnival madness, but where half of the population has left for the beach.
So, we’re en route to Curitiba. Paraná Province’s proud capital. Just 140km away. Nestled at an elevation of nearly 1000m.
Quickly we find a sleepery in the center of town. And after a lengthy search, we even manage to find secure parking for Prado which is open during this time of madness.
Hi guys,
That’s it for this post.
More about the same and some more in the next 1. Promised.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin