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Marquesas, French Polynesia - The Next Incredible Adventures
More about the incredible Marquesas in the middle of nowhere. Then the long way back with a stopover in world-famous Bora Bora. Curious? Just read the post.
Ua Huka 2 Papeete
Fatu Hiva, 23rd January
Surely you’ve forgotten the name of the island we’re currently on. The 2nd of the 2 islands we visited that day.
Congrats, you got it right – it’s the village of Atuona on Tahuata Island. No worries, even for us it’s impossible to remember all these names.
We’re on the ship bound for the next island, Fatu Hiva. Everybody on the deck taking pics of the kitschiest sunset you can imagine. Of course, to make the naughty neighbours at home incredibly jealous.
The next morning we get up pretty early, around 5am, to soak in our arrival on Fatu Hiva.
Today it’s the big hiking day. Some 15 km for the probably most famous hike in the Marquesas, Omoa to Hanavave.
Of course, we’ve been intensively prepared for this adventure. We got all the warnings you can imagine, the ship’s doctor and a car will be with us the whole way, people who decide not to continue may return to the ship within the 1st 30’, probably even a satellite is constantly observing us. And most important for the Aranuiis, a liability waiveris signed by all of us. You see, the Aranuiis really take care of us, even without taking any risk on this adventurous hike .
Well, that’s the opportunity to admit something we didn’t dare to tell you so far: the trip is not really booked by youngsters, people in their 20s or 30s. It seems they prefer to enjoy their holiday somewhere else. Looking at our dear co-passengers, you may sometimes have the impression you’re on an outing of a retirement home – of course, that doesn’t apply to us. Could that be a reason for all these warnings? Who knows.
Anyway, most of the sexy senior citizens prefer to stay on board of Aranui.
Jenny, 1 of our travel buddies got permission to start our hike a bit earlier than the others who have to follow an introduction to the traditional treatment of foot blisters, or something similar. Whatever, her permission is our permission (maybe).
We’re more than happy, we can walk in front of all the others, don’t have to explain to the doctor our geriatric problems and nobody cares if we’re still energetic after 2h when we reach the highest point at 700m. So, we’re just 4 hikers – admiring the beauty of this extraordinary landscape, ready to explore whatever comes our way, and trying our best not to be overtaken by the seniors behind us. True, there’s a fast sneaky on board, a guy from Taiwan, nobody could follow him.
A few meters behind the cumulating point there’s the Aranui’s lunch station. Can you imagine – where in the world do you get some salads, sandwiches and cakes specially hauled up for us poor hikers. Whatever, something to munch on and an opportunity to cool down a bit. Despite the clouds we’ve not really been freezing on our way uphill.
Some time later we’re already on our way down to the ship waiting at the end of the hike. The landscape changes significantly, now it’s getting wilder, less trees, and more rocks. Reminds us a bit of Cabo Verde’s Santo Antão.
Along the way there’s a roadcamp. Yeah, the guys are really converting the hiking trail into a highway – at least by Fatu Hiva’s standards.
There we found a cage with some pigs. They desperately plead with us to bring them along. We just don’t know if the cook on Aranui would not borrow them from us and convert them into Sweet’n’ Sour Pork with Egg Noodles Cantonese Style. Finally, we’ve preferred to leave them.
Early afternoon we arrive in the village of Hanavave. Hey, we made the 15km and 700m elevation despite all warnings. Don’t expect us to be too exhausted. We’re still able to put all our energy into the search for a bottle of beer. We know, there’s no watering hole. Still, we quickly find the supermarket. The smart lady explains to us that beer is currently out of stock, as no delivery has arrived since December last year. Can you imagine? Poor guys here.
Still, there’s hope for us, we just need to wait until Aranui unloads the new stock, someone then transports it to the supermarket, and the fridge cools it down. Then, we can definitely get some beer.
At the harbour we find out that she was right. The beer already has been unloaded.
Esteemed readers, surely it’s interesting to know how little rewarding it is to get beer in Hanavava. Still, that’s not what you really want to know.
So, let’s concentrate on the essentials: Yes, the hike is great. The astonishing landscape makes every sweat drop and every blister worth it. So, go for it.
Even if it’s not a hiking trail you’re probably used to. It is a gravel road currently being converted into pavement. A pity, but reality.
Finally, our beer story? We got it all on the ship.
Ua Huka, 24th January
Another morning – as usual on Aranui another day also means another island. Now Ua Huka. A few years ago, the island was famous for the spectacular sail thru a narrow bay to reach the pier. Unfortunately, the Frenchies ignored for many years how desperately the dock has been crying for maintenance until they had to change the port of arrival. So, we’re mooring in the bay of Hane, next to the same-named village. Without the spectacular sail.
Quite interesting to observe how they disembark all kinds of goods for the island on 2 rafts.
Today, Aranui has organized a so-called 4×4 tour to see the island. So, again the long row of SUVs waiting for us and 1 or 2 minibuses, because they don’t have that many 4×4 vehicles. In front a tiny blue car they call a guiding vehicle to make sure nobody gets lost on these 30km of road on the island.
The 1st stop: at the island’s arboretum.
Near the entrance there’s a Tiki – probably more interesting for girls than for boys.
Among other talks, we get long explanations about the trees they have – mangoes, avocados, starfruits, breadfruits, etc. True, some vanilla as well. Nice to sneak along the trails, but of course, nowhere near as spectacular as the days before.
On to a viewpoint where we can see how arid the island is.
On to another viewpoint, then a museum with a collection of headcrackers from Polynesia’s cannibalism period. At that time they where important tools.
Finally, another 2 museums which turn out to be mainly souvenir shops.
Then it’s lunchtime. Luckily, a lot of raw fish.
Hey, not to forget – after lunch we go for a hike. About 1 or 2 km to get back to the ship. No idea if the ship doctor follows the brave hikers.
And that’s it for Ua Huka.
Surely, now you’re interested in knowing what’s up with this island. Well, we don’t know. Despite its nice, arid landscape and its many wild horses, it seems there’s not too much to see or do. The sights look a bit artificial, somehow made for poor Aranui passengers to spend some time here.
Nevertheless, as a cargo ship they have to serve the island. And that’s probably the main reason we come here.
Ua Huka is the last island of the Marquesas we visit. Time to bid farewell. Aranui is on its way to Rangiroa in the Tuamotu Archipelago, some 1000 km away.
Suddenly, we realise that even our ship thinks the visit to the Marquesas has been too short. It’s not heading straight to the open sea. No, after a few hours we’re approaching again an island: Nuka Hiva. Surely you remember, our 1st stop on the Marquesas 5 days ago.
A little later we’re at the pier, they disembark a school bus. No idea, if it is just a show for us to demonstrate their capabilities, or a real necessity because they urgently need it on the island, or just the feeling of nostalgia for the Marquesas the Aranuiis have. Whatever, it’s interesting to see the bus getting off with the crane and the kids will be happy to have their transport.
Then we’re definitely on the way to Rangiroa. And us, we’re on the way to the bar to celebrate happy hour.
Rangiroa, 26th January
We have a whole day at sea. Strange not being constantly asked to follow an endless program. Yeah, nothing to do, nothing to see. Just the opportunity to socialize, to observe other passengers, to finish the book where we don’t remember the beginning, to continue with blog poetry before everything gets forgotten, and finally to head for the bar’s happy hour offers.
After this day of chilling in the middle of the South Pacific, the next morning we finally approach Rangiroa. It’s an atoll. So, hard to see from a distance, just flat land with a few palm trees and some houses – a few sq km of land spread over a few 100 sq km of ocean.
A tender brings us to Avatoru the atoll’s main settlement. True, just a few houses.
A short walk to the beach – and we’re at the place to be for snorkelling. Unfortunately, today the weather is not really great: grey, drizzle, even some rain. A pity, but maybe not too disastrous if we’re snorkelling. Let’s see.
Only later, we learn how dangerous our beach is. Just by chance we discover the small signboard on a coconut tree. What a shame nobody told us before. Definitely, we’d ignore it anyway.
But be warned.
Dear reader,
Surely most of you are enormously interested in knowing a bit more about these 5-star hotels with overwater bungalows, a butler for the ladies, an escort service for the gentlemen, and prices well above your monthly salary. You know, this kind of stuff you really need to survive the reality in the South Pacific. True, for a simple breakfast you pay more than the amount you normally spend on a night, but who cares.
The Aranuiis told us, that we can enter 1 of them, sneak along the bungalows, even have a secret look at the interior of these sleeperies, and have a drink at their incredible bar.
Of course, we have to check it out. Arriving at their premises – ooops, they have a signboard clearly indicating that nobody can enter from the beach.
Due to a kind of misinterpretation, some of us ignore it (of course the good boys only, while the bad girls remain outside). So, the boys sneak along the rows of bungalows. They all look empty, no reason to explore the interior. Suddenly, we’re confronted with a stiff security lady. She tells us something about trespassing, beach, reception, and the imminent threat of execution. As we tell her we’ll spend some money at the bar, we finally avoid getting shot for our misadventure. We’re allowed to have an expensive, but faded coffee, admire their infinity pool (probably with artificial corals), and we’re off again without further incidents.
Esteemed readers, now you know all you need: if you want to swim in this wonderful infinity pool with artificial corals, and have some Aranui passengers checking out what you’re doing in your room (because they’re told to do it), for 1000 Euro a night it’s all yours – breakfast excluded.
Papeete, 28th January
After this adventure we’re on our way again. To Bora Bora – imagine Bora Bora.
It’s happy hour, we’re busy with our well-deserved drinks and listening carefully to the girls, still not too enthusiastic about the boys’ hotel adventures – probably it’s the girl’s jealousy.
The next morning – can you imagine how well the Aranuiis organized our approach to Bora Bora? We didn’t even know that such a colorful sunrise is possible. Yeah, that’s exactly the vibe we need for Bora Bora.
Unlike the previous days, now nearly everybody is on the upper deck to experience our approach to the island.
No wonder, it’s Bora Bora. Said to be the most wonderful, most romantic, most instagramable, and most tiktokable island in the world. The place where you easily spend 3000 euro in an overwater honeymoon suite with your sweetest sweetheart, sometimes just days before you discover that your previous loverboy/girl is the person you really wanted to marry. The island where all the dreams of the South Pacific become reality, and the island that puts in the shade all other places you’ve ever visited. Yeah, that’s Bora Bora – and we’re here ….
… and we need to find out what’s behind this island.
For that we booked a so-called optional tour with Aranui. Maybe you remember – a tour which is similar to an included 1, but sold at a stiff price. As everyone seems to be enthusiastic about this boat trip around the island in the crystal clear turquoise water of the lagoon, we decide to go for it.
Our boatman – yeah, somehow a crazy guy, extremely nice, telling stories sometimes not really compatible to conservative put-on morals of our US fellow passengers, and constantly helping to soak up some of the island’s romantic fame. Great.
To start with, we’re heading to a place where sharks and stingrays chill out during the day. The boatman explains exactly which part of the body is in danger when the sharks are approaching. Of course, more an issue for boys, so girls may forget about it.
Still, most of us summon all our courage and leave the boat. Hey, what an experience amid all these fish!
So far, the fishy part of the tour.
Looking at the pics, you probably think it’s too dangerous to snorkel here. Maybe you’re right, still we didn’t hear any stories about sharks munching on poor tourists. But who knows?
Just remember you already took much greater risks for some of your spectacular Insta selfies you’re famous for.
We drive on in our small boat, around the island, to what they call a coral garden. All in the turquoise lagoon – you have to go there to believe the colors.
Everybody is excited, except an elderly couple from the US. They expected a cultural tour in canoes, not our snorkeling stuff. So, no swim suits, no snorkeling gear, nothing – and no question to go for a swim in underwear – or without. Whatever, nowadays that seems to be the lifestile in the US.
Back to the coral garden.
On to our last stop – as our boatman says, the place with the finest sand in the world. He thinks it’s perfect for peeling. As we think maybe it’s more appropriate just to chill out a bit , fling wet sand at each other, and marvel at the stunning scenery. Of course, except for our lovely US couple who misunderstood the tour. Looks like they’re really busy checking out the latest failures of MAGA.
Whatever, fun place to be.
Much too early we drive on, to an island at the edge of the coral reef, a Motu, where the Aranuiis prepare lunch for us.
On the way we pass some of these sleeperies for honeymooners, drug barons, and certain politicians. They all look a bit rundown and pretty empty. Of course, it’s low season, but even then some of these US-chains ask 3000 Euros as Google tells us.
Then the tour comes to an end, we’re on the Motu. Surely, you wanna know if it’s worth the expense. Definitely, it is – even if it’s 1 of Aranui’s optinal offers. And you won’t get it cheaper on the island. So, on your next trip with Aranui, that’s the optional tour to go for – and to forget the others.
And the Motu we’ve landed on? You know everyone has a different imagination of what the perfect South Pacific paradise is. But no one would doubt that it must be this beach.
In the afternoon, we have to be back on the ship. It’s our last evening on Aranui. At least in our bubble all are a bit depressed that the trip comes to an end, despite the beautiful day we had.
Others are probably happy to leave Aranui soon, fly back, and have the opportunity to tell their neighbours about this nightmare of terrible fellow passengers who were not able to subordinate to the ship’s strict rules. Whatever, we wish them a beautiful flight back.
For us it’s time to comfort ourselves with a happy hour sundowner, exchange WhatsApp adresses with the promise to keep in touch as long as the app exists, and admire the sunset in the lagoon of Bora Bora.
Before dinner, all Aranuiis biding farewell to us poor passengers …
E… and early next morning we arrive in Papeete. Time to say goodbye to our new friends. Who knows if we’ll see them again anywhere else. It’s also time to ignore those we put (at least mentally) on the wall of shame during the trip.
Yeah, that’s it. Real life as a kind of backpackies starts again: now we have to know ourselves what to do, to find something to munch on, and to search for a sleepery for the next night.
After having read all this, you surely wanna know if it’s really worth considering the trip with Aranui. The answer is very simple. Yes it is.
This despite the rather high price of the cruise – we think if you limit your gourmet desires to spaghetti with tomato sauce and water, you’ll economize enough money to join somewhen the trip. Still, don’t wait too long. There’s the impression Aranui is getting more and more a cruise ship, losing its character of a cargo vessel taking some passengers. And that’s a pity.
Nevertheless, a word of warning: should you be this kind of guy used to Caribbean cruise shipping with 10,000 fellow passengers, burgers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, screens with the latest from Fox News even in the toilets, then it’s possible you won’t fully enjoy Aranui. Whatever, we only had a few of those guys on board.
So, hurry up and book Aranui.
Now you know everything about this chapter of our trip. Time to move to new horizons.
As we know exactly the human capacity limit to follow too many different things in 1 post, we stop it here. Despite all poetry, we hope now you’re really motivated to head for the Marquesas – or you’ll be jealous forever.
Should you need some inspiration on what else to do after the cruise, no problem, just wait impatiently for the next post coming soon.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin