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Thru Southeast Europe, Part 2: From Hungary to Romania's Epic Maramures Region
Thru Northeastern Hungary, then into to Romania’s remote and super traditional Maramures region. Such a different and way more interesting trip!
Budapest 2 Viseu de Sus
Eger, 13th September
Enough of the not-so-appetising Haller Campsite in Budapest.
We’re on our way to Visegrád, just north of Hungary’s proud capital. To leave Budapest, we follow the highway along the Danube River – basically a kind of sightseeing quicky of the town.
On the way, a stroll thru the old town of Szentendre. Quite atmospheric streets and squares. Visibly, 1 of those spots where stressed-out Budapesties escape from sweet city life.
Then, just a few km further, Visegrád, on the shores of the Danube River. Famous for its location at the river’s famous bend and its castel perched high up in the hills.
We quickly find a spot for our van. No problem, we’re the only 1s at the campsite. Steping out of the van, we immediately notice how much the temperature has dropped in the last hour. This morning more than 25° in Budapest, luckily still about 20° an hour ago in Szentendre, and now around 12°. The cold front they’ve been announcing for days has finally hit us.
A short ride up the hill to reach the castle. A few steps sneaking up, and along the way a booth where we transfer quite a bit of money from our pockets to theirs.
The castle: well, it might be slightly over-restored – a problem we’ve come across several times in Hungary. To us, it feels a bit like a Chinese tourist hotspot with all the souvenir stands, food stalls, and everything else you can imagine. There’s even an exhibition with wax figures of old knights and a guy performing medieval music.
Whatever, the view of the valley and River Danube is really nice.
Debrecen, 14th September
The next morning. It’s pretty cold and raining. The cold front has definitely arrived. Not as bad as in Austria, Czech Republic, and Poland, where they expect huge floods and damages. We’re just south of the really bad weather.
We’re heading to the northeastern part of Hungary. To Eger, said to be 1 of the most beautiful towns in the country.
Upon arriving, it’s freezing cold, and raining as much as possible. Finally, we decide not to follow our masochistic streak and head to a sleepery we found on Booking.com. A place that sounds great – especially for the price. Well, the reality is…
Later in the afternoon, weather improves slightly. We take the chance to explore the town. Sure, we could have spent more time visiting the CBD. Still, but the weather ….
The next morning: the 3rd day in bad weather. It’s still raining. Not much, but consistently. It looks like we’re lucky to be always south of the zone with the heavy rains. The news shows that parts of eastern Austria, Poland, and the Czech Republic are flooded. Villages are being evacuated, and dams are reaching their capacity limits.
For us, there’s no reason to remain another day in Eger. So, we’re on our way further east to Debrecen, crossing Hungary’s famous Puszta. It’s true, we didn’t see that much of this large, partly protected grassland.
On the way, a short stop at Hortobágyi to admire their famous bridge crossing the eponymous River.
We arrive in Debrecen early in the afternoon. Once again, no chance to camp – temperatures below 10°, and pouring rain. Eventually, we find ourselves in a pretty posh business hotel. Well, we got a considerable discount because it’s a weekend and we’ve agreed to their membership.
Later, we take a glance at the CBD. Definitely not much to see.
Luckily, in the evening, we discover a really nostalgic restaurant and enjoy an excellent dinner. So, our day and our last evening in Hungary saved.
Satu Mare, 15th September
We’re heading to Satu Mare in norther Romania. Just a few km to the border. Here we’re leaving the Schengen Area. So, we have to show the Romies all kind of documents, let them have a look inside the van, buy the road tax for their highways, and get some Lei from an ATM. True, sounds like a lot, but its all done in no time. And not to forget – weather improves quickly.
Next, to Romania’s 1st gem: Satu Mare (as described in our guide book).
Satu Mare, our 1st town in Romania. Well, considering its location, it’s mainly influenced by the Hungy majority and the many German settlers who lived there. Only after WW 2 it started to become more Romanian. But let’s see.
But then we discover what Satu Mare really has to offer: an entire district around the municipal building where the romantic old town was transformed into a socialist concrete monstrosity. It’s said to be one of former dictator Ceaușescu’s model areas, featuring a huge square surrounded by the ugliest prefabricated concrete apartment blocks. In the center stands the municipal building, even uglier than you could imagine.
Finally, we head to a huge supermarket – Kaufland, a German chain that sells everything you can imagine. What a contrast to Hungary’s quite limited grocery selection.
Next to our campsite near the Hungarian border. We’re the only campers, yet we can’t shake the feeling it might be some kind of money laundry for something else.
Viseu de Sus, 18th September
The next morning: what a mess. The terrible weather is back – cold, gray, and dizzling – nothing worth mentioning.
Anyway, we’re on our way to the famous Maramureș area, known for its rolling hills and rich cultural heritage – especially the iconic wooden churches, some of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites.
The next morning: what a mess. The terrible weather is back – cold, gray, and dizzling – nothing worth mentioning.
Anyway, we’re on our way to the famous Maramureș area, known for its rolling hills and rich cultural heritage – especially the iconic wooden churches, some of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites.
In Săpânța a visit to the famous Merry Cementery. A place beautifully decorated by the locals with hand-carved crosses depicting an important scene from their life and a humorous epitaph that celebrates their lives.
Many scenes show the profession of the deceased. Though, a few occupations are difficult to believe in this conservative area.
It’s just a few km to Breb. Said to be 1 of the most traditional villages in Maramureș. That seems to be true, but it’s so wet and muddy – we even can’t visit. Instead, we spend the night at nearby Sighetu Marmației. Not really the most inviting place, but at least we’re sure that we won’t get stuck in the mud the next morning. Regardless, it rains the whole evening – without interruption.
Another day, same weather. Still, we give it 1 last chance. The forecast predicts bright sunshine and warm temperatures in the late afternoon. So, we remain optimistic.
We plan to visit the famous wooden churches of Maramureș. Maybe not all 500 they were built, but a few of them.
We start in Bârsana. High above the village, there’s the tiny Biserica Maicii Domnului. Part of the UNESCO sites, this church, built in the 18th century and famous for its interior paintings, had to move a few times before finding its final location.
We even got a private guide – included in the modest entrance fee.
The next church, located in the tiny village of Glod: Biserica de lemn din Glod. We need to call the caretaker to get inside. Another private tour in this uniquely charming church.
We continue driving on Maramureș’s backroads, heading towards Breb and finally reaching the village of Ieud. A trip thru very traditional villages, far from the vibe of bigger towns.
Along the way, a glimpse of a few more churches, all closed with no caretaker in sight, except for Ieud.
Time to reach the campsite in Viseu de Sus. Maybe not the most scenic place, but they have a good restaurant. So, we can recover from all these churches.
The next morning – time for a new and different adventure. A trip with the Vaser Valley Forestry Train, the Mocănița. 1 of the few railway journeys left that still runs with an old steam engine. Originally used to transport timber from the valley, nowdays it mainly carries hordes of tourists. Yeah, very touristy, crowded, and commercialized. Still, everyone traveling in the area is eager to experience it.
2h and 20km to reach our final destination Paltin. Along the way, a short stop – so the staff can grease the engine and refill water, the passengers to check out the bathrooms and we discover that at least some wagons have definitely had a previous life on another line: connecting 1 of Swizzyland’s major tourist hubs in the Jungfrau region.
In Paltin, we have a pretty long break. Mostly to queue up for something to munch on and to finish it as quickly as possible.
Then we rattle back to Viseu de Sus.
Esteemed readers, that’s enough for this post. We’re tired of all this poetry and the stories only we can imagine. Now, it’s time for a wonderful, cold beer, to enjoy sunset, and forget about blogging.
At least until the next post. Somewhere in the future. Promised, it will be sooner than you expect.
Cheeeers
Monika’n’Martin
